Briggs 60102-0267-01 help with kill switch
- Thread starter allstar59
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- Tags 60102-0267-01 briggs kill switch
if im right a BS 60102 is a flat head 2 1/2hp correct?.....its almost the same as the 80202 3hp......2 ways to go change the points ing coil over to the OldMiniBikes or briggs electronic coil gets rid of the points with out taking the flywheel off...or take the flywheel off and hook a small gauge wire to the condenser........i use the electronic ing coils on my BS 3hp on my Tacos much better than points .....as far as kill switches you can use a 2 wire to get a better ground or drill a pop rivet into the 1 wire switch clamp to the bar if its not a Taco in the coil picture the spade tab to hook the wire up is on the back side of the coil http://www.oldminibikes.com/forum/photopost/data/3454/thumbs/briggs_coils_001.jpg[/img]
to get a ground......most of the motorcycle shops have nicer kill switches I put kill switches on all my bikes in case the throttle sticks ......and nothing is more fun reaching down and missing the shut off and getting shocked.....you have a great safety feature
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Thanks for the reply. I think the electronic ignition is the way to go. Would this be the correct coil?
https://www.OldMiniBikes.com/Briggs-and-Stratton-496914-and-398593-Ignition-Coil.html
https://www.OldMiniBikes.com/Briggs-and-Stratton-496914-and-398593-Ignition-Coil.html
Yuup! use that one!:thumbsup:
All you need to do is clip the wire coming from the points under the flywheel Remove the flywheel if possible, or just clip as close as you can! Unbolt old coil and bolt new one on. I use a business card to set the gap between the coil and flywheel. Briggs manual says .006 on the gap for you technical types! That seems really tight...but who knows! after setting the air gap and tightening the screws, carefully turn the flywheel one full rotation just to make sure there is not problems.
All you need to do is clip the wire coming from the points under the flywheel Remove the flywheel if possible, or just clip as close as you can! Unbolt old coil and bolt new one on. I use a business card to set the gap between the coil and flywheel. Briggs manual says .006 on the gap for you technical types! That seems really tight...but who knows! after setting the air gap and tightening the screws, carefully turn the flywheel one full rotation just to make sure there is not problems.
That coil you have there looks like the same ones that came on the bigger 5HP Quantum mower engines.
It will not work, I've tried this :thumbsup:
The mounting holes are wrong, if you'll notice on the stock 2HP coil the mounting holes are very close to the side of the coil, as opposed to the holes on your parts engine coil there which has mounting holes towards the center. In other words, the coil you have from the 5HP intec will not be able to be used because the mounting holes are too far inward.
Hope some of that made sense :laugh:
Jack
It will not work, I've tried this :thumbsup:
The mounting holes are wrong, if you'll notice on the stock 2HP coil the mounting holes are very close to the side of the coil, as opposed to the holes on your parts engine coil there which has mounting holes towards the center. In other words, the coil you have from the 5HP intec will not be able to be used because the mounting holes are too far inward.
Hope some of that made sense :laugh:
Jack
I know I'm a little late to this conversation, but I'm also interested in wiring a kill switch in the same type of engine, and want to keep it stock without going electronic ignition, or paying any more money. So my question is regarding putting a kill wire at "the points." Where exactly do I do that? Do I wire it to that little nut coming off the top of the condenser? Or can I wire it to the mounting screw at the opposing point armature? Don't want to get it wrong...
It's been a while but I thought I'd update. Thanks Electrathon: your design is the purest and the absolute way I wanna go. I'm working on a different engine these days but the problem is the extra wire to the coil wire/condenser mix. What is the recommended gauge? I believe I have tried 14, 16, 18...no spark. I'm thinking the heavier gauge wire acts as it's own condenser or resistor and messes with the power at the points contact...
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See that wire? It is about 18 gauge. Size is not critical but no reason to try to fit anything bigger into the tiny space. If you have no spark it is you either have a failed condenser or out of adjustment points. Proper gap is critical. A second wire, brought to ground with a momentary contact switch is how many of the older engines were shut off.
Yeah I think that's ringing a bell now. It might also explain the hole being so big already. My gap has been .020" all along. But anyway I'm just updating here now. I believe I'm struggling with a weak spark. See the pic? That mag armature is original but the coil is from a techumseh. The old one was dead and I Frankensteined the arm with the tech coil to save the block I'd just spent the winter rebuilding! (Saw that on the Roadking805 YouTube, btw). So, since I last posted I seem to have remedied my situation by tightening the armature air gap to a 0.005", closing the spark plug gap to just about 0.020, and plan to switch to an 18ga kill wire - just tucked up under the spark plug cap the old fashioned way. Oh and I'm working with a carb that was probably too big in the first place, as I am having to turn the air and gas mix to a dribble just to calm the thing down after it starts. It's been a work in progress! Love this hobby tho, and glad I revisited this site cuz there's a lot more going on here than I remember a few years back. Thanks again Electro!
