Building a custom ARCO Colt.
- Thread starter OrangeAnimal
- Start date
I don’t know if the tc is actually cheaper as I can buy the clutch for the bike for less than 20 bucks through my work for a name brand one.
I would like to be able to keep the front wheel down lol.
Yes the battery is in front of the engine. It will also help that the bike is much longer than before. I do like the simple raw look of the chain and centrifugal clutch. Looks more original.
I would like to be able to keep the front wheel down lol.
Yes the battery is in front of the engine. It will also help that the bike is much longer than before. I do like the simple raw look of the chain and centrifugal clutch. Looks more original.
I as you can probably tell by the tires and overall vibe of the bike it’s for pavement. But I do have some hills to contest with. At 160lbs I think a 212 should still carry me along even if it’s through the grass in the yard. I am not trying to go fast just cruiser if it does 35-40 topped out that would be great!
I worked out my seat issue or lack of seat issue. I have had this brand new never used Tomos moped seat for a few years I sat it on there but it was resting on the frame too high. So time to modify it some! I think it is gonna work out good. I have to glue the cover back on I trimmed it so the cover wraps around the cutout I made to fit the frame.
Did a little work for the engine. I have this open header pipe I got for free with the engine. It was raw steel so several coats of VHT 2000 degree paint and heat cycling the pipe with a mapp gas torch before and after each coat and then 3 coats of VHT 2000 degree satin clear coat following the same method as well as painting the inside of the pipe as best as I could should work out.
Thanks! I will just be excited to get the frame back! I am sure it’s going to been amazing! Then time to assemble it. Still have some small parts to work out.
Since I can I think I will go ahead and put a headlight tail light and brake light on it. Going to use some lights I can get through work that are led. So they will be dot approved too not that I really need them to be lol.
Since I can I think I will go ahead and put a headlight tail light and brake light on it. Going to use some lights I can get through work that are led. So they will be dot approved too not that I really need them to be lol.
Yeah, there's a lot of info on people blowing things up, or not. As Mr. Brooks says, billet flywheel mininum. Billet because no one makes a high RPM forged version. I've found that the "Stage 1" modifications add quite a bit of performance while maintaining a safe margin. I'm not one to be overly concerned, or on board with the dire warnings some like to keep forwarding. There's a bit of maturity and restraint required when operating a throttle, with a spinning mass six inches below and next to, body parts. Look up Stage 1. Also my two cent's worth.
I'm a fan of billet parts for high RPM Hs-40/Hs-50 engines, but i never had a Lifan engine so i can't speak to that.
I guess it depends on how high you'll be spinning it, the valves might float as a failsafe?
Once you get into heavy valve springs and hot cam is when safety might become an issue.
just imho.
I guess it depends on how high you'll be spinning it, the valves might float as a failsafe?
Once you get into heavy valve springs and hot cam is when safety might become an issue.
just imho.
Well I would absolutely do the flywheel of course but I would be going down a rabbit hole I think cause I am by many of us folks a tinkerer by nature. So I see getting into it then doing the rod and putting a slide carb on it then valve springs etc. lol.
So maybe I should leave it alone at least till I run it a bit!
So maybe I should leave it alone at least till I run it a bit!