Building the Azusa. Not vintage.

#1
So I got bit by the Minibike bug. Don't know why, but I did. After the eBay find Flexo I decided to build an Azusa.

Started out with a rusty frame. The poof can paint job did not hold up well on the coast. I was told that this is a later, perhaps 90's vintage frame, it's not out of the 60's I really don't know when it was made.

Azusa1.jpg

This is as it came back from the media blasters, I reflowed a couple of suspect welds, didn't want it falling apart when I was riding it. Also shown are the new parts I will be using.

Paint 1.jpg

In paint. I opted to paint it Highland Green, to pay tribute to the Bullet Mustang in the movie Bullet with Steve McQueen.

Paint 2.jpg

Forks -

Paint 3.jpg

Fuel tank.

Let the build begin. It's not hard...

Front Weel On.jpg

Forks and wheel on. I used the Azusa 10" wheels. Nice, chrome option.

Rear detail.jpg

Rear wheel with the dubious expanding drum brakes.

Engine Plotz.jpg

A bit about this. The bike will have a proper B&S 5HP flat head, it's not ready just yet. Got the block, got all the tins, but they will need to go to powder coat, the engine will require an overhaul. This Titan JF-200 is a placeholder. I will tell you this, the Titan, although not vintage is a very good engine. One thing, the tank must come off for it to fit into the frame.

Look at me 1.jpg

So this is it pretty much finished. Wheels on, engine bolted, throttle hooked up, gas tank bracket bolted up, seat on, pretty much ready to go.

Lopsided.jpg

One thing, the Asuza doesn't have room for a jackshaft, at least with this engine, so the engine will stick out the right hand side, at least with the Titan JF-200. In fact, as I found out it still needs to move left about 1/4 (or more) as the clutch to rear wheel is off just enough to cause chain problems, as it tends to jump off the rear sprocket. Looks close, but it's alignment is not good enough.

Space Out.jpg

Moving the engine isn't an option I want to take right now as that would require drilling some holes and this engine is not the final one. What I have tried to do is space the sprocket out by adding washers. Made a big difference, but it's still not right. I'll get longer button head bolts tomorrow and add a second round of washers, this should solve the problems.

Okay, so if you want a great, fun, relatively simple project, build an Asuza. Is it the best? No. Is it a classic? Yes. Fun to ride? Oh yeah. Now, with a second round of washers I should really be able to take it out and ride!

- The Bee
 
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#5
Looks nice--just a hint: the wheels are flash chrome and rust really easy. I'd suggest picking up a couple of cans of Duplicolor Wheel Clear in gloss, disassemble the wheels and spray them in and outside. Learned my lesson here in humid Virginia. Can't wait to see more of this project with the flathead!:thumbsup:
 
#7
Love the build. Are you ok on gearing with the ten inch wheels? Do they have excessive run out? When I worked for OldMiniBikes I would purposely try to talk people out of them because the quality seemed poor. I love the look though. You may need a jackshaft with the flatty to help get the gear ratio down. Nice work!


Sent from my Texas Instruments Speak and Spell...[emoji2]
 
#8
Our experiences with Azusa Engineering products:
Did you spin that rear wheel/sprocket before putting the chain on? How bad is the side -to-side wobble? Also, you might want to add a clutch brake so that the bike will actually stop, not just slow down! LOL
Michael
 
#9
Love the build. Are you ok on gearing with the ten inch wheels? Do they have excessive run out? When I worked for OldMiniBikes I would purposely try to talk people out of them because the quality seemed poor. I love the look though. You may need a jackshaft with the flatty to help get the gear ratio down. Nice work!


Sent from my Texas Instruments Speak and Spell...[emoji2]
With the 10's the gear ratio is high. Perhaps too high. I have a new Comet Torq-a-verter that wouldn't fit with the Titan, that should help with the gearing when I get the Briggs going.

The wheels aren't as true as they could be, but good enough for a minibike. Runout was measured at 1/16th of an inch on one, and a tad less than tad under 3/16th on the other. What has runout problems is the sprocket, concentrically it's good (1/32th of an inch) run-out is nearly 1/4 of an inch, is there any wonder why the chain likes to jump off?

The 10's are "okay" but not terrific.

Bee
 
#10
Our experiences with Azusa Engineering products:
Did you spin that rear wheel/sprocket before putting the chain on? How bad is the side -to-side wobble? Also, you might want to add a clutch brake so that the bike will actually stop, not just slow down! LOL
Michael
Creia,

The rear sprocket is awful. A great deal of side to side which is causing chain jump off issues. And you are right, the drum brake isn't up to the task. I put a clutch brake on the Flexo, now THAT works!

Bee, Aka by most people as John.
 
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#11
From Pretty much to done. These are the photos of how it turned out in the end. Starts, rides and stops. Sort of.

P1011411_result.JPG

As it looks.

P1011410_result.JPG

Now with the fuel line connected. It was an S.O.B. to get all the air out of that line.

P1011409_result.JPG

Detail of fuel tank.

Today I spaced the sprocket out on the rear wheel 1/4 of an inch. This made the engine and rear wheel sprocket closely align. I have ordered new heavy duty chain, what I have is cr*pola. It doesn't jump off any more...but...

An interesting aside, the rear drum brake only swipes about a third of the drum. By spacing the sprocket out it causes the shoe assembly to move more deeply into the drum, making a noticeable improvement in performance by increasing the swept area.

Next, project Briggs & Stratton. Anyone know if reproduction B&S decals are available? If so from whom?

- Bee
 
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