Carb adapter questions for a Predator 212 Hemi
Well there is relocating the carb to get a better position... but why not relocate the filter for the carb.......
On my bike I did just that. I made an adapter to fit a piece of rad hose, and also an adapter to fit the original OEM air filter+gasket.
It relocates the filter away... and kinda looks cool......
I got the idea from AGK and modified to fit my idea.
AGK - DIY Curved Manifold - Affordable Go Karts
On my bike I did just that. I made an adapter to fit a piece of rad hose, and also an adapter to fit the original OEM air filter+gasket.
It relocates the filter away... and kinda looks cool......
I got the idea from AGK and modified to fit my idea.
AGK - DIY Curved Manifold - Affordable Go Karts
I started making my carb adapter today. I have two minibikes that need this. One is on a Predator the other is an OHV Briggs Animal engine.
On the Predator I bought a radiator hose that had a 1" diameter and a lot of bends in it. I then took a metal carb adapter that fit the Briggs, cut it in half then filed the mounting holes so it would fit the Predator bolt pattern. I bolted one side to the engine and the other to the stock Predator carb. Then I cut a small bend from the hose and used hose clamps to mount it. It works and does what I wanted it to do but there isn't Any good or easy way to hook up the throttle. Plus the choke lever and gas shut off are sticking out toward my leg and can get snapped off easily. So. I decided to swap the butterfly carb to a round slide type of carb, like a Mikuni. Those have the throttle cable going straight into the top of the carb. Much easier. I stopped work on the Predator until I get the other carb and cable.
I decided to work on the Briggs instead as it already had a slide type carb on it (Walbro PZ). First I did the same thing with the rubber hose but didn't like it as much. I decided to make a metal middle section and weld it together. I looked in my shed out back for something to use. Awhile ago I garbage picked a kid's bicycle. The front fork area looked perfect for what I wanted to do. I cut a tight curved portion off of it and after a lot of grinding and fitting I had what I wanted so I welded it together. It came out really good. I still have to hook up the throttle and gas line, get a bigger air filter etc. I gained A LOT of side clearance/leg clearance. Plus nothing is sticking out from that side of the carb.
Here are some pictures. It may be confusing because there are two different engines here. First I'll show the Predator parts layed out and what the final product looked like, but no way to hook up a throttle easily. THe choke lever is in the choke position in this picture. It sticks straight out in the run position - not good.
Next is the Briggs set up. I didn't think to take any pictures of the center piece before I welded it into position though, sorry about that. I only took pictures of the end result. I also added a brace that runs from the carb to the block to support the end of the adapter.
Danford1
On the Predator I bought a radiator hose that had a 1" diameter and a lot of bends in it. I then took a metal carb adapter that fit the Briggs, cut it in half then filed the mounting holes so it would fit the Predator bolt pattern. I bolted one side to the engine and the other to the stock Predator carb. Then I cut a small bend from the hose and used hose clamps to mount it. It works and does what I wanted it to do but there isn't Any good or easy way to hook up the throttle. Plus the choke lever and gas shut off are sticking out toward my leg and can get snapped off easily. So. I decided to swap the butterfly carb to a round slide type of carb, like a Mikuni. Those have the throttle cable going straight into the top of the carb. Much easier. I stopped work on the Predator until I get the other carb and cable.
I decided to work on the Briggs instead as it already had a slide type carb on it (Walbro PZ). First I did the same thing with the rubber hose but didn't like it as much. I decided to make a metal middle section and weld it together. I looked in my shed out back for something to use. Awhile ago I garbage picked a kid's bicycle. The front fork area looked perfect for what I wanted to do. I cut a tight curved portion off of it and after a lot of grinding and fitting I had what I wanted so I welded it together. It came out really good. I still have to hook up the throttle and gas line, get a bigger air filter etc. I gained A LOT of side clearance/leg clearance. Plus nothing is sticking out from that side of the carb.
Here are some pictures. It may be confusing because there are two different engines here. First I'll show the Predator parts layed out and what the final product looked like, but no way to hook up a throttle easily. THe choke lever is in the choke position in this picture. It sticks straight out in the run position - not good.
Next is the Briggs set up. I didn't think to take any pictures of the center piece before I welded it into position though, sorry about that. I only took pictures of the end result. I also added a brace that runs from the carb to the block to support the end of the adapter.
Danford1
Last edited:
That one wont work on a Clone style engine. It is for a pit bike engine and the intake port is straight up on those. That is why the intake is turned 90 degrees so that the carb mounts straight to the rear.
Look at the bolt positions on the flange with the 2 holes and imagine the direction it will take bolted on a clone..... Up or Down....
Doug
Look at the bolt positions on the flange with the 2 holes and imagine the direction it will take bolted on a clone..... Up or Down....
Doug
Correct, it won't be a direct bolt on, but, some of the guys that buy this aren't going to use it as is. You cut it in half and orient each half the way you want it and either weld it that way or weld in a new center section. The other option is to use rubber hose to connect the two halves. You have to make a bracket to support the carb if you use rubber hose though. That adapter can raise or lower the carb which could be beneficial in some builds where space limitations come into play.
Danford1
Danford1
Last edited:
I found out they DO make angled adapters. They are $41 for a steel one. This is round not D shaped so you need to use the factory plastic D shaped adapter with it. Here is a link to them.
Danford1
Manifold, 22 Mikuni to GX200, 45 degree, Curved Steel, Economy Model
Danford1
Manifold, 22 Mikuni to GX200, 45 degree, Curved Steel, Economy Model
Last edited:
I bought one of these, and had a Chikuni. Had to enlarge the holes to get the Chikuni carb to fit, I suppose a real deal Mikuni would line up. Like Ole has stated it does not have the needed D shaped port, and the hole is too small in Diameter to do much with it. I think what Ole is saying is the pitbike adapter hole is larger than the intake D shape, and he makes the hole into a D shape, thus reducing the size of the hole. You cannot do that with the adapter you have listed, the hole is not large enough.
Saving time is important. I can't argue that. That is why sometimes I'll build something so I don't have to wait a few days for it to get here. I built mine today. It is here now, not waiting to be shipped and delivered.
Other times when I have the time to wait, I'll buy something already done. This time I chose to make one rather than buy the $41 one. I would be waiting days, if I bought it...
Yes, I missed the fact that it was a mentioned kit above. I just read the $100 price and didn't look into the link. $100 for a kit isn't bad with a real deal Mikuni carb and the other items. I'll have to add that to my watch list! That could come is very handy on future builds - provided the engine is mounted flat. Right now I have 4 minibikes with a slanted engine plate.
Thanks for the link.
Danford1
Other times when I have the time to wait, I'll buy something already done. This time I chose to make one rather than buy the $41 one. I would be waiting days, if I bought it...
Yes, I missed the fact that it was a mentioned kit above. I just read the $100 price and didn't look into the link. $100 for a kit isn't bad with a real deal Mikuni carb and the other items. I'll have to add that to my watch list! That could come is very handy on future builds - provided the engine is mounted flat. Right now I have 4 minibikes with a slanted engine plate.
Thanks for the link.
Danford1
Last edited:
Below is a link comparing a REAL Mikuni versus a Chikuni. The Chikuni is a decent carb, but know what you are getting as you can sometimes find deals on Real Mikuni's on ebay and the jets do not interchange between the two.
Mikuni-Chikuni Comparison
Another place to buy a Chikuni kit is below, but this one comes with the D shaped adapter:
Mikuni Kit
Mikuni-Chikuni Comparison
Another place to buy a Chikuni kit is below, but this one comes with the D shaped adapter:
Mikuni Kit
Last edited:
