Centrifugal clutch or torque converter?

O

OrangeAnimal

New Member
#1
#1
I bought a very nice mini trike frame and everything to get it rolling I have a 212 predator engine going on it. I have the choice to use what I have which is the centrifugal clutch or I can buy a torque converter setup? Which is ultimately better? And there are so many TAV2 clones out there it’s hard to pick one any favorites out there? It seems as though the general thing that most people complain about is eating up belts. But that seems like a setup issue to me. I could be wrong. A1EDED39-6646-49AF-9F03-3C7F8AC10EBF.jpeg A1EDED39-6646-49AF-9F03-3C7F8AC10EBF.jpeg
 
Harquebus

Harquebus

Well-Known Member
#2
#2
Torq-A-Verters are good if set up properly and if you use quality belts. Many are adamant that you use genuine Comet belts. TAVs are mainly meant for off road vehicles, hill climbing and for maximum versatility (different gear ratios).

That looks like a drift trike for pavement. A centrifugal clutch would excel in that environment and provide the most power. Most race karts (all?) use a clutch for maximum speed while conversely, a TAV, while it provides low down grunt, also robs some power. Just depends on what you want.
 
O

OrangeAnimal

New Member
#4
#4
The guy that built it builds dragsters and stuff, he had a torque converter on it.
As far as my usage goes it’ll be mostly off the pavement. I wouldn’t mind it having enough power to spin the tires in the hard dirt and grass. And maybe some wheelies on pavement and a few runs down the street and back. Not looking to break land speed records just play around on. If it’ll run 30 that’ll be enough. They are dirt track kart tires so… I have the centrifugal clutch and I have a torque converter on the way. I might try both.
 
Cuda54

Cuda54

Active Member
#6
#6
The clutch you have will wheelie that with ease. I have a 212 Hemi on a mini bike and grown ups find it easy to wheelie. My son has 2 beefed up 212s that are around 17hp to 18hp they do close to 65mph. One has a clutch the other has a torque converter they both are real close.
 
O

OrangeAnimal

New Member
#7
#7
Well I am working on getting everything put together now. Of course they did me no favors with the mounting bolts for the tav. They are correct pitch but the lengths are off just a bit on each one. Of course I had to modify the second oil fill port screw in. The knob had to go. Also the heat shield screw on the head was keeping it from sitting flush so I just removed it. I may go back and make the screw head a bit flatter. Otherwise the kit looks decent just as much as any other kit on the market.

I do have two questions.
1. Bolt torque for pto bolts.
2. Bolt torque for crank shaft bolt.
I do not want to be that guy with pieces of clutch stuck in my leg. I am running the governor still and have no reason to remove it. So ultimately whatever rpm it’ll turn I assume something like 3600-4200 would be fine. I have a good idea that it will be plenty fast.

I am expecting a top speed with the torque converter of about 35mph I may be off though. I have a 12 tooth and a 58 tooth set of sprockets. Take off should be excellent.
 
Last edited:
sparkwizard

sparkwizard

Well-Known Member
#8
#8
Aren't you the guy who was asking about how to tame the Predator on the ARCO? This is going to be seriously front end light, my friend. And with a solid axle and kart tires, it won't want to turn, either. Be careful and buy gauze.
 
O

OrangeAnimal

New Member
#9
#9
The ARCO is way lighter and the engine was much further back on it. This was built pretty decent and I have a set of wheelie bars lol. You sit more forward of the axle and the engine is even more forward. I think the cg will be better.

I am going to scale it and see the weight distribution at some point as well.
 
O

OrangeAnimal

New Member
#12
#12
Got it all done. Haven’t rode it yet. May finish the wheelie bar setup first. They had it set for pavement so it would drag and dig in hills through the grass. I am going to adjust it up some and get some better bigger wheels for it. Thinking large skateboard wheels. And enough that I can get the front about 30 degrees up. Not too crazy I want to keep things under some control. D53ABE2D-A87F-4B50-8745-74E9ED902C68.jpeg
 
SAS289

SAS289

Well-Known Member
#14
#14
OrangeAnimal said:
Well I am working on getting everything put together now. Of course they did me no favors with the mounting bolts for the tav. They are correct pitch but the lengths are off just a bit on each one. Of course I had to modify the second oil fill port screw in. The knob had to go. Also the heat shield screw on the head was keeping it from sitting flush so I just removed it. I may go back and make the screw head a bit flatter. Otherwise the kit looks decent just as much as any other kit on the market.

I do have two questions.
1. Bolt torque for pto bolts.
2. Bolt torque for crank shaft bolt.
I do not want to be that guy with pieces of clutch stuck in my leg. I am running the governor still and have no reason to remove it. So ultimately whatever rpm it’ll turn I assume something like 3600-4200 would be fine. I have a good idea that it will be plenty fast.

I am expecting a top speed with the torque converter of about 35mph I may be off though. I have a 12 tooth and a 58 tooth set of sprockets. Take off should be excellent.
Click to expand...
For the TAV plate mounting bolts I just tighten by hand but they are probably somewhere around 17 ft/lbs. For the crankshaft bolt I go for the longest bolt that does not bottom out when torqued down. For my crankshafts it a 2 1/2" bolt with a flat and a lock washer. I use blue loctite and torque to 20 ft/lbs which is a spec I have seen in a Comet doc. And it does make sense for a bolt that size with fine threads.

That's a good catch on the "heat sheild" bolt head. I'd bet that most guys just tighten it down and bind it up. I get stupid with it and just hit that area of the plate with the bench grinder.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top