Chain Linkin's - DB Dirt Racer - (Chinese Class)

#41
Looking good Bud ! You really should consider moving the kickstand to the right ( left ) side while you are doing some fab work !
thank you!

The kick stand has been removed completely. They tend to drag when we lean into corners lifting the rear wheel off the ground which usually results in a spin. Right now I keep my bike on the stand at home and on a wood block at the track. I want to (someday) convert an old radio flyer wagon into some kind of track side work station: something to keep all my tools and spare parts handy/store my mini between races. Another thing to add to my to-do list :laugh:
 
#42
thank you!

The kick stand has been removed completely. They tend to drag when we lean into corners lifting the rear wheel off the ground which usually results in a spin. Right now I keep my bike on the stand at home and on a wood block at the track. I want to (someday) convert an old radio flyer wagon into some kind of track side work station: something to keep all my tools and spare parts handy/store my mini between races. Another thing to add to my to-do list :laugh:
Nice idea with the wagon , everything drags when getting down !
 
#44
So I ordered a flywheel last week and it's being shipped via USPS - well, that is until it gets into Canada. Once it reaches our customs and gets cleared it's considered delivered. At this point the tracking number doesn't get updated. The upside is I get the surprise of coming home from work to the part the down side (potentially) is I get the surprise of coming home from work to my wife with the part. :laugh:
 
#45
Test fit my fenders. The front fender shown here isn't tight, it does line up better hat that.



I will be getting a new chikuni 22mm carb for this build. That will clear up the clearence issue with my foot peg there.

 
#46
I used JB Weld to help blend the louvers into the fenders... I would never use JB Weld for anything that requires an structural strength but this application seemed perfect.



I could have spent some more time sanding and re-applying but this bike is going to get beat up. Being pressed for time there was a bit of "good enough" work. Hopefully the following pictures show up blurry. :laugh:

First color coat was a silver metal spec paint by Dupli-colour.



Followed by some quick masking





The green is Dupli-colour Metalcast. Almost a candy in a rattle can. Good enough for my mini

 
#48
I originally planned to do some lace painting which turned out great on my test piece.



But not so much when I tested it on a simulation piece





So I decided against it. The fender isn't done. I'm letting it dry over night and tomorrow I am going to apply the final dark coats and a gloss clear.

 
#53
Does any one know the throttle travel to fully open the Miknui 22mm? I'm going to be getting a new twist grip but I'm not going to have my carb for a few weeks still.
 
#54
Does any one know the throttle travel to fully open the Miknui 22mm? I'm going to be getting a new twist grip but I'm not going to have my carb for a few weeks still.
I don't recall, but I do recall that a standard 7/8" mini bike throttle had ample travel for mine. I soldered on a bit of brass tube to the throttle cable which fit the Mikuni slide. I used plenty of flux and a propane torch. Of course you can't do that fun stuff until you have the carburetor mounted.
 
#55
I don't recall, but I do recall that a standard 7/8" mini bike throttle had ample travel for mine. I soldered on a bit of brass tube to the throttle cable which fit the Mikuni slide. I used plenty of flux and a propane torch. Of course you can't do that fun stuff until you have the carburetor mounted.


I'll keep that in mind when I get to that stage.

Right now I don't like how far I have to twist my throttle to get to wide open. It get's tiresome while racing (that plus my current assembly is old and not very efficient) During my research I found that Motion Pro sell twist grips with different throttle rates (amount of twist - cable travel). So if I can find out the cable travel for the 22mm then I can get a twist grip that I think I will like. It's not a big deal, luckily it's something I can get locally.
 
#56
Well, I like it. a few more clear coats tomorrow and it fenders will be put away somewhere safe until the end of the build.



I really wish I did the lace on the green area... didn't really think about it until all the tape was off. That would have given the bike a good old school look.

 
#57
I'm in power play mode to get this build done(ish) for Sunday. That's when our first race is.

To get this bike done I'm not going to get to:

Rebuilding my engine - I bought a new carb, flywheel, springs,header, and a used honda gx200. I also have a 160 head for future use. I still need to get a cam and rod which won't happen for another month or so.

Making my new fuel tank - I'm going to use two Coleman propane tanks but I only have one empty one. I can't bring myself to just waste another one so I wait...

Mud flap - I'm going make a mud flap for the rear fender. My plan is to make one from leather (I do leather work like holsters and ammo belts) I know it's not really the most practical material but I'm going to use this opportunity to test my methods and see how well the finish holds up to the abuse.


For now I'm going to throw the old clone back in it. Any ways, here are a bunch of pictures from the weekend up until today when I got it to the roller stage.
 
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