Chain Streching

#1
I run 40 chain on my Manco Thunderbird and constantly have to replace it due to stretching. Im not using cheapo chain either It is like 50$ for a 10 foot roll of stainless chain, pre-stretched. I constantly oil the chain and I just bought a brand new 72 tooth reproduction sprocket in hope that the old one was worn out. The chain usually breaks in after 1-2 rides but then begins to stretch little by little every ride. At some point, there is visible slop of the chain on the rear sprocket. you can have the chain tight from the clutch to the sprocket but on the actual sprocket, there is a half inch of movement of the chain between teeth. What could be causing this? I am running a ungoverned predator 212 with upgraded jet and e-tube, 22 lb valve springs, chromoly puch rods and a performance spark plug. And no, the motor is not moving, I am using Lock washers on both top and bottom along with locknuts. I dont think im overtightening the chain either. I usually leave about 1/2 inch of up and down movement in the chain. Any Ideas?
 
#2
I’m gonna stick my neck out and ask if the 72T is moving where it shouldn’t. Is yours the model with four closely-spaced sprocket bolts? Are the bolts allowing movement from all that torque?

SAT
 
#3
sounds like the sprocket is worn out or the chain rollers are bad..unlikely the rollers are bad w a new chain...you can check em by running a small screwdriver along the bottom to see if they are loose on the pins..
 
#4
I’m gonna stick my neck out and ask if the 72T is moving where it shouldn’t. Is yours the model with four closely-spaced sprocket bolts? Are the bolts allowing movement from all that torque?

SAT
Yes, If i had to guess, the holes are 4 inches apart from eachother. I know there can be some slop in that rear sprocket but I try to center it as best as I can.
 
#5
Assuming that the chain and sprocket sizes match, being able to pull the chain away from the rear sprocket when the chain is snug is simply a result of the chain being excessively stretched. Since you have replaced the rear sprocket and still experience the same problem, I would guess that the front sprocket has excessive radial run-out (sprocket is out-of-round). Many years ago, I was about to leave on a motorcycle trip and decided to alter the final gearing to improve gas mileage. The bike was tuned and geared for performance and gas mileage was low as a result. Anyway, I replaced the front sprocket with a larger one, adjusted and lubed the chain, and checked rear wheel alignment; good to go. I always checked and lubed the chain during each fuel stop when on a trip; first fuel stop, the chain was quite loose. I wasn't sure what was going on, but I adjusted and lubed the chain and carried on. Next fuel stop, the chain was loose, again. I then knew there was a problem, but there wasn't much I could do about it at the time other than adjusting and lubing the chain, again. With a few more adjustments, I made the 600+ miles to my destination. Obviously, my chain (an expensive #530 endless O-ring chain) was shot. Since the problem started with the replacement of the front sprocket, it pretty much had to be the problem. Bought a new front sprocket and chain (the rear sprocket looked fine, so I just flipped it) and installed them. Did a good bit of riding over several days and was confident everything was fine before making the return trip. The bad front sprocket looked okay, but a dial indicator said otherwise. Back home, I returned the bad sprocket and the dealership reimbursed me for the cost of the sprocket and the chain it ruined (I knew the owner and had bought the bike new from him; he had the sprocket checked and was eager to please a good customer).

Prop your mini's rear wheel up off the ground; rotate the wheel a little bit at a time until you find the tight spot in the chain (nearly every chain drive has a tight spot, a loose spot, and the rest is somewhere in between; always adjust chain at tight spot); using a paint marker, put a mark on each sprocket at the point farthest from the other sprocket. Repeat rotating the wheel a little bit at a time and checking for the tight spot; locate the tight spot multiple times; if the front sprocket is in the same position each time, the front sprocket is the problem; if the rear sprocket is in the same position each time, the rear sprocket is the problem (the sprocket may be okay but not mounted properly). If your sprockets seem to be good, I would suggest installing a spring-loaded tensioner on the bottom run of the chain so you can run some slack in the chain.
 
#6
Along with what the others said, make sure the sprockets are aligned. Misaligned would tend to wear the chain faster too, as it twists to line up with the sprockets.
 
#7
I would think about a spring loaded chain tensioner.If you have high spots in your sprockets and the chain gets tight and loose as you rotate the rear wheel, centering the sprocket will help.A spring loaded tensioner is kinder on the chain .Some thing to think about-MikeZ
 
#8
I run 40 chain on my Manco Thunderbird and constantly have to replace it due to stretching....And no, the motor is not moving, I am using Lock washers on both top and bottom along with locknuts...
I hope that you find a solution. On the topic of engine movement, the motors on a couple of my minis stay rock solid after my buddy brazed a square nut to the engine plate and added a machine screw and locknut. Set it and forget it. This also allows for fine adjustment of the chain tension.

 
#10
I hope that you find a solution. On the topic of engine movement, the motors on a couple of my minis stay rock solid after my buddy brazed a square nut to the engine plate and added a machine screw and locknut. Set it and forget it. This also allows for fine adjustment of the chain tension.


Pretty trick Tom, I'll have to remember that one. Sometimes trying to hold tension, and a couple of wrenches at the same time can be an adventure. Hmm, maybe a removable set up, clamp it with some vice grips, adjust the tension, tighten the mount bolts, and then remove the tensioner.
 
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