Cleaned out carb and gas tank but now no gas is getting in the bowl

[hd94vett]

I have a 5 hp power sport engine that was running only if I kept pushing the primer blub. I removed the carb and cleaned out the holes in the bowl bolt that were pluged up. I removed the float and needle and sprayed carb cleaner through all the holes in the carb. I also cleaned out the gas tank. Now the carb is not getting gas in the bowl, and when I push the primer no gas is comming out of the carb. Any help would be great.
Thanks
Mike

 

[bikebudy]

First be sure the gas is flowing from the tank to the carb.

If that is good, then I would check to see that the float needel is not stuck.

 

[The Restore Kid]

Yup, sometimes if ya mush the float needle some setting the float level, or it gets banged around a little putting it together, the needle will kinda stab and stick into the seat..

try just gently smacking the side of the carb right there by the fuel inlet with a screwdriver handle or whatever.. That might do it..

OR sometimes, for whatever crazy reason, gravity does not work.. :shrug:

I'm shittin ya, especially if you have a fuel filter..

Sometimes the gas is only 2 inches higher than the carb, and for whatever reason, the gas isn't heavy enough to run down the hose.. :shrug: Wide open fuel line hanging there, nothing wrong with anything... Gas won't come out.. :shrug: Just had a briggs 7 horse do it to me 3 days ago.. :shrug:

Blow in the gas filler of the tank, put some pressure in it.. OPE now theres gas all over the place.. :laugh:

Hook it up and you're good to go.. :shrug:

I'd try just smacking the carb a few times with a 3/8 wrench.. see if that helps, if not blow in the gas tank, if thats not it..

Probably the elbow or somewhere in the carb above the needle seat, is clogged with crud..

OR the gas tank / fuel lines have a clog somewhere..

 

[hd94vett]

Thanks for all the information, I will try it tomorrow. Is the seat replacable on these carbs. I also notice that the carb float bowl bolt has a rubber oring in side the bolt, that looks a little worn can this be a problem too?

Thanks
Mike

 

[The Restore Kid]

NO that rubber o-ring seals off your main jet metering screw.. It has an adjustable jet? Is this on an OHV engine?

There are two sets of holes in that brass main jet (bowl bolt) There are 1or 2 larger ones at the bottom right where the bowl is.. then up above the threads, is one more REALLY small one, that penetrates at a 45 degree angle.. That feeds your idle system, and if it's plugged it won't hardly run for crap.. But it should get gas..

If the float level isn't set rite, it may not be opening..

You can replace the seats in them, but only need to really if it is leaking, or has been hit with brake parts cleaner and is swelled up so bad it isn't working..

 

[hd94vett]

Here are 2 pictures of the carb when I had it a part. Does anything look wrong?
Thanks
Mike

 

[The Restore Kid]

where is the O-ring in question?? :shrug: The flat one in between the bowl and that nut? :shrug: If so that thing is OK.. If it isn't leaking, it's fine...

These carbs WILL NOT RUN IF!!!!!

# 1 there is no screw in the left hand air filter screw hole.. The one on the primer bulb
side goes all the way into the primer area.. if there is no screw, it will suck air and not
fuel.... :doah: won't run...

#2 your main jet is still plugged.. The holes in the side is one thing, BUT there is also one
hole (the actual jet size) is right in the center of the jet.. Fuel enters through the sides, THEN
enters the carb up the center of that tube... If you look at it, the hole down through the center looks huge, BUT the ACTUAL JET SIZE is a real small hole at the very bottom of the jet.. Fuel enters from the sides, then turns an instant 90 degree angle and starts going up through the carb... Rite there, in between the holes at the bottom, on the inside the jet is drilled a very small hole.. Stab a wire down into it and clean the jet out at the bottom.. make sure fuel will flow all the way through your jet, including the very small hole at the top, drilled at a 45 degree angle, which feeds the idle circuit of the carb... :thumbsup:

#3 the primer bulb has a hole or crack in it, and sucking air..

#4 the emulsion tube is plugged... after fuel leaves the main jet, to enter the carb, it
climbs that tube into the throat of the carb.. In your carb it's plastic.. make sure
that thing isn't plugged..

.
.
.
.
Otherwise... No that all looks pretty good.. That is the correct carburetor, and has no adjustments available.. You would have to change that bowl nut ( Main Jet) out with a larger one to feed the engine more fuel while it is running and working...

The idle fuel (pilot jet) is another brass plug in the side of the carb, opposite the fuel inlet side, near the intake manifold, JUST above the bowl...

Theres a small plastic cork plug type of thing.. Just a little 3 millimeter circle... The brass jet is below that plastic thing, and has a one single slit (flat screwdriver) to screw it out...

THIS TOO has certain sized holes drilled for an exact amount of fuel.. They are ALWAYS TOO LEAN as they are adjusted to BARELY RUN when brand new, so it doesn't pollute the earth or whatever..

YOU CAN use your flat screwdriver.. I just stab that plastic thing with my screwdriver, push and start screwing... You should make less than 1/2 a turn before the screwdriver alines with the jet, and you will feel it drop into the jet and start screwing it out.. :thumbsup:

You want to take that pilot jet out, and shoot all of those holes out with carb cleaner as well.... If you get the engine running, and the idle is too lean. you can leave that jet loose, and it will get more fuel.. YOU HAVE TO DAMAGE THE THREADS... I like to just screw the thing all the way out, then use wire cutters, held at an angle to the jet, and pinch it it just a little, so it boogers up the threads.. THAT makes it bind up when you screw it back in.. and it acts like a lock nut or something..... screw it all the way in snug how it belongs... Start the motor, then start slowwwwwwwwwly screwing that jet out.. it should take less than one turn to fix the problem.. It's not designed to work that way.. You are causing a leak, so it starts lean, then is too rich...If you go slowly, you can hear the motor get happy right at one perfect spot... Then ya just leave the jet screwed to there, and it's fixed as it's gonna get... :laugh: You can put a dab of silicone over the top of it if ya want to..

The black primer you have is WAY BETTER than the red ones... It should work work.. the red ones are nearly worthless... I just cup my hand over the end of the carb to CHOKE the carb out, and it WILL GET fuel.... :laugh:

 

[hd94vett]

Thanks you for all that information, I understand alot of it but I am a little lost on some too. The little rubber washer is the one in the top of the bowl bolt. I never work on a primer carb, I worked on the old school stuff in the 70s. I like the old stuff with a choke and that little button on the bottom of the float bowl that you push to drain the gas out of the bowl. I didnt get a chance yet to remove the carb again. I hope tomorrow, thanks again Restore Kid. I will try to send you a picture of the engine I hope it come over.
Mike

 

[The Restore Kid]

O-Ring IN the main jet?? THAT Might be your problem.. THERE IS one that is wadded way up inside the carb, between the body and that emulsion tube..

Sorta helps seal the jet to the inner parts of the carb..

I don't know HOW BADLY it really needs it, but if it's fell out where ya can see it, or wadded into your jet, it's probably plugging the hole between the jet and carb..

 

[hd94vett]

Thanks Restore kid I just had a chance today to get back to the carb, I removed it again. I removed the bowl and the needle was stuck close. That o ring that was stuck in the jet I removed and I dont see one in the carb. Will I have to put a new o ring in between the emulsion and the carb? Should I open up the pilot jet since I have the carb off. Where is the best place to get a carb rebilld kit?

Thanks
Mike

 

[hd94vett]

I went to a small engine shop and they told me the carb kit is discontinue. He said something about putting in a larger # main jet and tryng to find the kit on-line. Will the larger main jet idea work?
Thanks
Mike

 

[jrzmac]

I would just get another carb.....I did for mine, and it works great so far. def. worth the $40.00 IMO.

Oregon 50-647, Carburetor, Tecumseh 6326 : Amazon.com : Automotive

Tecumseh Replacement Carb Carburetor 631921 632284 631070A | eBay

they're not original Tecumseh carbs but will do the job. and are adjustable. or if you just want to try and rebuild it... Tecumseh 31840 Carburetor Repair Kit

if you do get the repair kit, SAVE one of the springs from the old carb's idle mixture screw on the side or the main mixture screw on the bottom. the kit only comes with one spring. dont know why when you need two but??????

 

[hd94vett]

Thanks for the information, will my old air cleaner bolt up to the new carb. Out of the two carbs is the Oregon 50-647 as good as the Tecumseh Replacement Carb? The carb I have now has no mixture screws. I think it must be a later model with a primer bulb. I like the old carbs better with adjustable main and idle screws and a choke lever.
Mike

 

[hd94vett]

 

[hd94vett]

I think this is the newer style tecumseh.

 

[jrzmac]

I have the Oregon 50-647 carb. doubt it's as good as the original but like I said it works fine for now! don't know how it'll run in a few years? but for $35.00 I'll just buy another one....

 

[The Restore Kid]

needle?????????

If it's the non adjustable carb, there won't be any needles...

THE REASON IT WONT RUN!!!!! if you are trying with no air filter, is the lack of one air filter screw.. The screw that goes on the primer bulb side, penetrates all the way into the primer area of the carb...

YOU NEED!!! to have a screw in that hole, or they will not pull fuel also...

Yes, you can just ad a bigger jet to increase main fuel flow.. You can actually crack the idle jet loose and it will get more low end fuel, BUT YOU HAVE TO damage the threads on the jet, or it will fall out, because it's loose...

You should be able to get parts for it.. You can buy rebuild kits for the 1960 carbs still..

 

[hd94vett]

I removed the rubber that was stuck on top of the main jet. and cleaned out the little hole toward the top of the main jet. The engine nows idle but seems a little lean. I tryed to remove the cap one the side of the carb to get to the idle mixture screw. I used a small chisel but it only skinned the plug. Can I drill a hole in the plug and use a sheet metal screw to pull out the plug?
Thanks
Mike::hammer:

 

[hd94vett]

The idle mixture plug seems to be made out of aluminum material.. I tryed to poke through but I didnt want to damage the carb. Is there another way I can remove this plug.
Thanks
Mike

 

[The Restore Kid]

WOAH WOAHh woahhh :laugh:

You don't wanna drill anything..

THERE SHOULD BE, a little brass jet that sits under neath the plastic cork.. It has a flat head scewdriver slot to screw it out..

I just get the rite size screwdriver (can't be real wide) and stab strait through the plastic cork.. It will stab through, then hit that brass jet.. Just push against it, and start screwing out slowly.. EVENTUALLY, within 179 degrees of turning or less.. You will feel the screwdriver actually line up with the slot, and drop into the slot..

NOW!! the screwdriver is poked into the jet the way it belongs, and you can screw it out...

YOU CAN NOT ADJUST IT!!! :mellow: If you try just turning it, it just makes it (loose) and it WILL FALL OUT AND GET LOST!! :mellow:

BUT!! You can mess up the threads on the jet, so when you put it back in, it like cross threads and acts like a lock nut..

screw it in tight, then back it back out like 1/4 of a turn or so.. :shrug: You can almost adjust the idle, for like the first one turn or so... It will leak inside the carb, and feed the carb more fuel.. :wink:

take it out, make sure it's not plugged.. There is two really small holes at the tip of it, on either side.. Then there is the JET itself.. a super small hole, that runs directly through the jet, where fuel squirts out the end of the jet... It's like a straw, with two holes on the sides to suck from...

make sure the holes are all clean..... Squish the threads on the jet ( I use side cutters GENTLY) so it will lock in place.... screw it back in tight.. Then back it out just a little, start the motor, and adjust from there.. Slowly turning the screw out and listening for the rpm's to speed up and motor smooths out..

Should only need to be out like 1/2 turn or so...

Make sure it can't fall out.....
.
.
.
If the main fuel is lean, you gotta get a bigger jet, or get some jet drills and drill it out bigger..