Ok...well... Here's what's missing:
Yeah... It's not coil bind... It's not Voodoo....
Ya wanna know what I THINK IT IS?
Are you willing to bet a warm , flat beer?
EDIT: One caveat: coulda been a bad cam... ( anything is possible; I was married for over 20 years!)
Check your flywheel key.....
Yeah... It's not coil bind... It's not Voodoo....
Ya wanna know what I THINK IT IS?
Are you willing to bet a warm , flat beer?
EDIT: One caveat: coulda been a bad cam... ( anything is possible; I was married for over 20 years!)
Check your flywheel key.....
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I have been waiting on some stamped 1.2 rockers to get back in stock so I can try them with a stock cam. I just ordered some 22LB springs for this but have not got the rockers yet. Hope to make some power with them when combined with a lightly ported head. My thought is that if the cam wears out its only $5 for a new cam. Also its not a regrind cam so should be a little stronger then some of the cheep cams. This might be something to try if your just looking for torque.
22 pounds seams to be alot for a 230 lift cam? see nrracing recommends 22s Camshaft, 230 Racing Series (GX200s, 6.5 OHV, & 212 Predators)
also see there could be a problem if installed 26#
i would think 18-20 pound would of been more ideal for your engine?
either way that cam must not be heat treated very well? and or could it be a very small part not having any zinc in the oil?
run a 20 pound spring on a 255 dyno cam with no problems(recommended from dyno cams)
hookup a good tach next time you run that engine on on you project. i like to see what really it puts out under a load.
maybe a video of the rpm's
if you ate your cam up? what does the cylinder wall look like? where did all that metal go...
i really like your video's on fishing. looks like some great places to go.....:thumbsup:
also see there could be a problem if installed 26#
i would think 18-20 pound would of been more ideal for your engine?
either way that cam must not be heat treated very well? and or could it be a very small part not having any zinc in the oil?
run a 20 pound spring on a 255 dyno cam with no problems(recommended from dyno cams)
hookup a good tach next time you run that engine on on you project. i like to see what really it puts out under a load.
maybe a video of the rpm's
if you ate your cam up? what does the cylinder wall look like? where did all that metal go...
i really like your video's on fishing. looks like some great places to go.....:thumbsup:
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Yeah, I already covered all that. The cylinder wall was perfect. The main factors were bad camshaft lobe, poor oil quality, and poor break-in procedure. I put in a MOD2 camshaft, used Shell Rotella 15W40, and broke it in via 30 minutes no load, about an hour running at idle speed on the lake, then a couple high speed run, changed the oil, and now I run AMSOIL Z-rod which has zinc and the anti-corrosion package form their marine oil.
The main thing is the marine environment is so harsh. A water is 800 times a thick as air, and I push 500 lbs of total weight fast fast enough to plane over like an airplane. That NR camshaft would never have held up. Here's the overview:
[video=youtube;T6vuB9bo4w4]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T6vuB9bo4w4[/video]
The main thing is the marine environment is so harsh. A water is 800 times a thick as air, and I push 500 lbs of total weight fast fast enough to plane over like an airplane. That NR camshaft would never have held up. Here's the overview:
[video=youtube;T6vuB9bo4w4]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T6vuB9bo4w4[/video]
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Great video. On cam break on hot rods I run the motor between 2,000 and 3,000 RPM varying the RPM for about 25 minutes and then let the motor fully cool for a few hours. Usually this will be done at night and will let motor set over night. Next day recheck valves, change oil and run motor like normal. I believe the reason for doing it this way is to harden the surface of the cam. If you just run cam for a few hours right off the bat it wears out the surface before it has time to be hardened. I might be wrong about why this works but this is how I was taught to break in a cam. I was told not to let motor set at the same RPM for too long. Not sure why but I have had pretty good luck with cams. Not that this pertains to our motors but on cars if I run duel valve springs I will also break in cam with just the outer spring. If is was a triple spring set up than the outer 2 springs. I have had a few friends wipe out cams and it sucks. I wonder if it would be a good idea to brake in our cams with stock springs as long as the cam dose not coil bind the spring like a car motor being broke in with weaker spring.
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There is no way a 22lb spring would cause that kind of cam damage. You cant compare 22lb spring to a car flat tappet cam with at least 150Lbs of seat pressure and a tappet area similar to our engines and a lobe width only slightly wider than ours.Something else was going on. Could he have had a oil dilution issue with gas in the oil or the cam was not heat treated? I have run the early .265 lift Dyno regrind with no treatment whatsoever and they warn of wear. I have them in a few engines with 26lb springs and no wear. Something else was going on here. Were both lobes going or only one?
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