coil conversion 5hp flathead

[markus]

last few points briggs I have gotten had the "magnetron" ? installed on them. From what I see you just simply install the coil and snip the wires coming from the points unit....or at least thats what looks like was done on the engines I had :shrug:

Just want to verify that, I popped the shroud off a briggs I thought was locked up internally and the coil was just corroded onto the flywheel and pullstart was full of debris. So now it spins over fine and is showing compression etc.. not real sure how good the bottom end is just yet though.

It is a points engine, I pulled the flywheel to check them and they were toast and the bakelight or phenolic lifter is frozen in the hole and it snapped about halfway in trying to turn it/free it. So its probably easier at this point to convert I guess.

 

[mipowdercoater]

Yep all you do is bolt the magnetron and snip the wires.

 

[markus]

Yep all you do is bolt the magnetron and snip the wires.

Very cool, I was worried I might need another flywheels or something too. I'm starting to like these briggs more and more, I've never really messed with them before.

Thanks for the verification

 

[KB2ROCKET]

if you can remove the plunger and seal it with high temp RTV would be better than leaving it there it will eliminate the possibillity of oil filling the points cover

 

[chazdaddy]

Hello Markus,

Yes Briggs FH's are cool. Nice thing about the older ones with points ignition, they put out a really hot spark and start easier. So, keep that in mind if you have one that needs a little work to get the points ignition restored. I have one 5hp Briggs FH with points ignition, and took some work and research to restore it, but was worth the trouble. :thumbsup:

 

[mipowdercoater]

Hello Markus,

Yes Briggs FH's are cool. Nice thing about the older ones with points ignition, they put out a really hot spark and start easier. So, keep that in mind if you have one that needs a little work to get the points ignition restored. I have one 5hp Briggs FH with points ignition, and took some work and research to restore it, but was worth the trouble. :thumbsup:

No way do points put out a hotter spark.

 

[KB2ROCKET]

for the most part the only difference is the magnatron uses solid state transistor switching vs. mecanical switching voltages are about the same the solid state unit has more accurate timing and less fricton losses. but either way both units setup properly perform about the same

 

[Inventorpardue]

if you can remove the plunger and seal it with high temp RTV would be better than leaving it there it will eliminate the possibillity of oil filling the points cover

Markus, since you know the more more difficult Tecumseh ignition system well, you can nail down the Briggs easy. High-temp RTV in the plunger hole was the standard procedure we did in repair shops when installing a Magnetron. Often we would find the points and plunger still in place, and while I never saw that give any trouble, KB2ROCKET has the assured plan.

Jon

 

[MB165]

the old retrofit kits came with a steel plunger hole plug, It was just hammered in the plunger hole. Most techs just snipped the wires and left the points in there. If you ever use a hole plug keep in mind it will stretch the aluminum...going back to points will leave the plunger loose in the bore.

 

[creia]

Hello Markus,

Yes Briggs FH's are cool. Nice thing about the older ones with points ignition, they put out a really hot spark and start easier. So, keep that in mind if you have one that needs a little work to get the points ignition restored. I have one 5hp Briggs FH with points ignition, and took some work and research to restore it, but was worth the trouble. :thumbsup:

Where in the world did you hear/read this?
Michael

 

[creia]

Very cool, I was worried I might need another flywheels
Thanks for the verification

Markus, You do, if you are converting over a Briggs CAST IRON engine, however, (fortunately) not on the Briggs aluminum "Kool Bore" engines.
Michael

 

[chazdaddy]

Hello creia,

Sorry for passing out bad info, just had one old 5hp Briggs FH with points that was not working, did research on this site to get it fixed, generally several people on this site said points put out hotter spark (there was some disagreement, same as now), after I got it running, was my experience too, the spark will really pop you, on my 5hp Briggs FHs with magnetron the spark is lame compared to the one with points. Sorry for the long run-on sentence.

I only have experience with this one points engine, so my experience is very limited. I can always learn something new, so thanks for correcting my post. :thumbsup:

 

[creia]

Hello creia,

Sorry for passing out bad info, just had one old 5hp Briggs FH with points that was not working, did research on this site to get it fixed, generally several people on this site said points put out hotter spark (there was some disagreement, same as now), after I got it running, was my experience too, the spark will really pop you, on my 5hp Briggs FHs with magnetron the spark is lame compared to the one with points. Sorry for the long run-on sentence.

I only have experience with this one points engine, so my experience is very limited. I can always learn something new, so thanks for correcting my post. :thumbsup:

No need to apologize! To be clear, I was not "correcting your post". I really and truly wanted to know where you heard/read it. I've never heard or experienced that, and have always found that Magnetrons (working properly) always put out a very good spark, at least the equivalent to points and condenser.
Michael

 

[Cubenzo]

In my experience with magnetron's.. Ive found them to fail pre-maturely. I put one on an old sears garden tractor I have.. Im on my 2nd one in 3 years. Whats strange is a bad unit will still shock you if you touch the plug/cap.. but no visible spark.

That being said.. they may last much longer on a mini or cart. When it works.. I can tell no difference in engine performance. Its $15 and made in china.. thats what you can expect!

 

[creia]

In my experience with magnetron's.. Ive found them to fail pre-maturely. Its $15 and made in china.. thats what you can expect!

Are you purchasing OEM BRIGGS Magnetrons or "aftermarket"?
I suspect it may be the latter, and if so, there is your pre-mature failure.
Michael

 

[Motra]

the old retrofit kits came with a steel plunger hole plug, It was just hammered in the plunger hole. Most techs just snipped the wires and left the points in there. If you ever use a hole plug keep in mind it will stretch the aluminum...going back to points will leave the plunger loose in the bore.

The steel plug is a slick way to go and it eliminates the chance of the silicone coming out. I think I still have a few of them kickin' around if you want one, or I can get the part number for you. They're probably less than a dollar new.