Coleman BT200X
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Was thinking my solution would be a shim between the engine and the TAV backing plate.
My issue is the chain 'just' touches the outside edge of the rear sprocket, when you pull the bike backwards, the edges of the sprocket teeth rub hard on that edge.
I've actually had the chain climb up on the sprocket and jam HARD! And it broke my tensioner. I think this issue is the main cause of all my dropped chains. I don't think it's a rear wheel alignment issue either. A piece of sheet metal with holes cut in, or washers might do the trick?
Oh, but the other issue is that you can only go so far before all your stuff is hanging on the edge, or the nylon lock nut is not nyloning the thread.
My issue is the chain 'just' touches the outside edge of the rear sprocket, when you pull the bike backwards, the edges of the sprocket teeth rub hard on that edge.
I've actually had the chain climb up on the sprocket and jam HARD! And it broke my tensioner. I think this issue is the main cause of all my dropped chains. I don't think it's a rear wheel alignment issue either. A piece of sheet metal with holes cut in, or washers might do the trick?
Oh, but the other issue is that you can only go so far before all your stuff is hanging on the edge, or the nylon lock nut is not nyloning the thread.
I pulled the engine as far left on the riser plate as I could and tweaked everything else so the chain would run between the backing plate and driven pulley, that and shimmed the driven pulley with two 14ga. machine bushings. The front sprocket is still canted but to get it to work, that's what needed to be done. I also adjusted the right axle adjuster more to get it to line up. Yeah it's not straight with the driveline anymore but that's what you get when people don't care about what they sell only to make a buck. The thing is, this is marketed to the people who care and don't want to cut the hoop off the frame. If I care that much, I also care about it being correctly designed to where my sprockets or chain aren't going to wear out prematurely due to incorrect alignment.
Exactly!, you only have so much room on the rear shaft to play with if you want the nylon part of the lock nut to do its job. Whatever shims you ad, this has to be taken into consideration. Then, wherever the back pulley of the driven unit ends up, the drive pulley has to be in line with it. If you shim out the driven enough to clear the chain, there's barely enough room on the crankshaft for the drive pulleys slide shaft. The way mine is right now, I had to eliminate the washer behind the Nylock nut for the nylon part to do its job.
The original engine plate has slotted holes for forward/aft engine adjustment. The riser plate has 2 round holes in the front and 2 slotted holes in the back that also run forward/aft. Rather than making the riser plate with holes that run in the same direction, they should have made it with slots for left/right adjustment but I guess that would require to much brain power. I'm not an engineer by trade but after all the headaches and re-designs of what others pass off as good, I should be. You should see the rear brake setup on my Lil Rascal... what a joke!, I still haven't started that build due to the poor design of the rear brake. Not only did they include a 1/4" spacer for the brake disc, I had to put another set of 1/4" spacers on the caliper just to get it to line up with the disc. Then I find that there's only about 1/4 of the brake pad that actually touches the disc. I don't want to put a 20hp engine on something that isn't going to stop so I'm going to grind their crappy setup from the frame and do something more like Mega Moto did and make a caliper bracket that is welded to the rear wheel spacer.
Another thing(s) I thought of, one I tried.
The one I tried was adding 1 washer to the chain side and taking the equivalent off on the other side by using washers instead of the stock cylindrical spacer, essentially moving the whole tire assembly 1 washer distance to the right, the problem then is the brakes, you would have to cut off the tab the brake arm is attached to, do the mod, then re-weld the tab to the frame.
The other thing would be to take a file or some sort of dremel tool or equivalent, and grind your motor mount plate holes a bit leftward, or cut the plate and re-weld it a bit to the left.
(note, L & R is assumed from back view, and this is written according to my specific issue, which is sprocket teeth rubbing (away from bike side of the chain)
The one I tried was adding 1 washer to the chain side and taking the equivalent off on the other side by using washers instead of the stock cylindrical spacer, essentially moving the whole tire assembly 1 washer distance to the right, the problem then is the brakes, you would have to cut off the tab the brake arm is attached to, do the mod, then re-weld the tab to the frame.
The other thing would be to take a file or some sort of dremel tool or equivalent, and grind your motor mount plate holes a bit leftward, or cut the plate and re-weld it a bit to the left.
(note, L & R is assumed from back view, and this is written according to my specific issue, which is sprocket teeth rubbing (away from bike side of the chain)
After seeing some pictures of a BT flat track racer, I'm leaning towards building mine as one. I have a Tilly 225 and Juggernaut already in the works, just got the 20x7x8 street tread tires and exhaust in the mail today. The knobby tires will be going on the EX and I have another set on the way for the CT. I'm surprised that tires tires are actually speed rated to 75mph.
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I got the Wanda's for the CT today, silly me forgot to order the bearings though. I went to O' Reilly's to see what they had, $13.49 per bearing and they would have to order them, yeah, I don't think so!, $12.40 for 10 on eBay with free shipping sounds more like a winner to me. I always try to line up the valve stem with the pressure rating of the tire so when I check the pressure, I don't have to hunt for where it is on the tire.
