Coleman CT200U-EXR-C gearing and initial parts advice needed...

#1
Hey all, new forum member here looking for advice on a CT200U-EXR-C.

I'll likely be picking one up from the tractor supply next week but am thinking I should at least order a larger rear sprocket now.

The smoothest terrain I may cover is a poorly maintained dirt road, but it will usually be some variation of across a farm field, down a small trail, down into a ravine, across a shallow creek/stream, and up out of the ravine, across a field then reverse to get back.

I had a little 2 stroke Tecumseh powered minibike as a kid and am familiar with the sit-walk associated with climbing steep off-road hills--but I'm hoping to keep the people paddling to a minimum.

Would a 72 tooth rear sprocket drop the top speed to the point that it would be uncomfortably slow across the field?

Based on a video from Red Beard's Garage it looks like the 60 tooth is a nice compromise, but it also doesn't look like they are doing much in the way of climbing. I'm pretty much always on a hill of some sort. Anyone have any experience going uphill with a 60 tooth rear and the rest stock?

If I install a torque converter over the winter would the 72 become way to big?

I have a 2 stroke dirt bike with an oversized rear sprocket and heavy flywheel for having fun. I'm grabbing the Coleman partially to drag a small chainsaw around to maintain the tight trails where my ATV doesn't fit. It would be nice to also use it to occasionally take the long way home or scoot over to the neighbour's without blowing their eardrums out while trying not to rip up their driveway with the dirt bike.

Any advice for my preliminary pre-winter order? 72 or 60? Anything else that's quick other than a spark plug and a stiffer governor spring if I can find one?
 

SAS289

Well-Known Member
#2
Welcome to the forum.

I would recommend the 60 tooth and a longer chain for it. The 60 tooth will also work well with the torque converter.

Didn't Red Beard have a video where they tested a 72 tooth on a Coleman? You can use it and I'm sure it would be great for slow speed climbing, but you would quickly run out of RPM. The 72 would work with a torque converter but the bike would be wheelie prone from a stop or at very slow speed with too much throttle. If you can control the wheelies it can be very good gearing with a stock Chinese torque converter and an engine that can SAFELY run higher than 5000 RPM. You would get that kind of RPM if you put the bike on the road at higher speeds.

I gave you your first "like" because you are asking questions before you even have the bike.
 
#4
Thanks for all of the info!

Red Beard did have a video where he had a 60 tooth on one and a 72 on the other. He liked the 60 overall for all round riding compared to the 72 even before he had the torque converter on them.

I don't think I'm going to try and get this engine to push it's RPMs past stock. Is that 5K RPM just if I try and go full throttle on flatland? As much as I'll want the throttle to really go to full throttle when I'm climbing something I tend to back off on flat as soon as I feel the power fade. I try and put as much time between rebuilds as I can even on my 2 strokes.

It's sounding like I have to go with the 60 tooth if I don't want to buy another sprocket when I put the TC on. As much as I'd like to pride myself on throttle control one of the reasons I want this thing is that sometimes my dirt bike just takes too much energy to control if I need to be thinking about and doing other things. I'll just have to walk the bike more than I'd like to for the first few months until I have time to put the TC on.

Are there any TCs I should stay away from? Or should I just look for something cheap with a 10 tooth drive sprocket?

...I should have searched the forums before asking that...if there is already a post on that just ignore me ;)

It's too bad there isn't a jackshaft gear box or something that would let me put it in high or low. Still, minibikes seem to have come a long way since my old orange one in the 70's. Though it could have been that I just didn't know any better.

Thanks again!
 

SAS289

Well-Known Member
#6
"I don't think I'm going to try and get this engine to push it's RPMs past stock."

That's important because you can have an easy setup that will work well. Do the torque converter with a 60 tooth sprocket. For the engine do a "stage 1" kit which is nothing more than a pipe, air filter kit, and a jet. Do nothing with the governor. Trim down the throttle screw for extra throttle travel. Then ride. In my opinion this is the best way to start on a Coleman 200. If you want more then build the engine and gear for it.
 
#7
Are there any filter kits that do not stick out the side or exhaust mods that will fit the original form factor?

Everything I have found seems to stick out one way or another?
 
#8
Are there any filter kits that do not stick out the side or exhaust mods that will fit the original form factor?

Everything I have found seems to stick out one way or another?
You may be able to find a header that tucks in more, but the air filter setups always stick way far out.

Headers are generally universal, so not every one will fit every frame. If you run an open header the bike will be very loud too. You may want to look into muffler/silencer options for the header if noise is an issue.

All a stage 1 kit really does is make the bike a lot louder. You may gain 1-2hp, which won't be very noticeable. Running a TAV on an otherwise stock engine would be your best starting point. If you need more, then mess with the gearing or looking into modding the engine.
 
#9
1 to 2 horse power when you are only starting out with 6 can add to the fun.
If you do, ADD a muffler. A straight pipe will make you a LOT of enemies really fast with your neighbors.
 
#10
I'm not sure yet because I'm only going by videos--I'll have a better idea in a few days when I pick up the bike--but it looks like I may have to do something about the exhaust if I don't want to cut the horizontal bar in front of the rear tire to install a TC. The only riser that looks like it will clear puts the top of the engine pretty close to the top crossbar.

I'm going to have to find a muffler of some form if I do since part of getting the minibike is so the neighbours don't have to hear my 2-stroke dirt bike screaming all the time.
 
#11
60 tooth rear sprocket, torque converter with 10 tooth drive sprocket and you will be ready to climb most anything, poke along efficiently when necessary and still have good top speed. For the kind of terrain and riding that you have described a centrifugal clutch will come up short and be a big disappointment.
My friend recently acquired this CT200U and it needs some parts including the gears. The previous owner mentioned it got 60 tooth rear sprocket but he's not sure of the drive sprocket. We'll just finish installing the rotors and method wheels on the truck before we'll take a look at the bike.
 

2old2care

Active Member
#12
Are there any filter kits that do not stick out the side
I think I have a photo of a bike that had a reverse curve silicone hose attached to the stock carb intake, that brought the air filter more over the center of the motor, but I imagine it was a custom job - Nothing just off the shelf bolt on AFAIK.
There are inverted manifolds like that you can buy to mount a Mikuni (over the engine), but not for the stock carb.

Hey - I just found the photo! A nice idea, but I think you'd have to fab it up yourself, and it looks like it would conflict with the stock gas tank :
baja inverted air filter.JPG
 

toomanytoys

Well-Known Member
#13
My filter has been torn off and smashed and beat back into shape so many times. It is what it is. I’ve lost 2 of them tearing them off on tree limbs and not noticing until I got home. The one on there now has a piece of wire looped through the flange and tied to the frame so I don’t lose it.

I’ll back up what everyone else is saying. Torque converter, 10/60 gearing and a stage one. You’ll have no issue with climbing a hill and on a steep hill you will most likely have to back off the throttle to keep from looping it over. You will not have to flint stone yourself around.

My CT200U is a tank off road.
 

LIVIT

Well-Known Member
#14
I'm not sure yet because I'm only going by videos--I'll have a better idea in a few days when I pick up the bike--but it looks like I may have to do something about the exhaust if I don't want to cut the horizontal bar in front of the rear tire to install a TC. The only riser that looks like it will clear puts the top of the engine pretty close to the top crossbar.

I'm going to have to find a muffler of some form if I do since part of getting the minibike is so the neighbours don't have to hear my 2-stroke dirt bike screaming all the time.
I recently bought a used 2020 200U-EX that has the stage 1. At a great price, due to it having issues being a dog, due to the valve lashings being wrong from the factory. First things to do: check all your bolts, take off the valve cover and make sure the valve lash is set correctly !!! The Header pipe with muffler on mine is not at all what I would call loud, not even close to how loud our 2 strokers are. It's the one from GPS for the EX. I don't feel that the stage 1 air cleaner sticks out too far on mine. The suggestions and help from these guys on here have really helped me change the performance on mine. Doing the throttle screw adjustment and getting valve lash right has almost doubled the speed and torque on mine.

I'm putting a CVT and using the Riser plate on mine today. Got what I think was a good deal on a CVT with adapter and 3 extra belts on Amazon. Claims to be a comet. We shall see ! I really like the riser plate. I live in SC near coast, flatlands, so not too much hill climbing. But the small incline I did try, was not impressive with mine. The clutch just could not pull my big butt (225lbs) up it from a stand still. Welcome to the Forum and the Addiction !
 

SAS289

Well-Known Member
#15
My filter has been torn off and smashed and beat back into shape so many times. It is what it is. I’ve lost 2 of them tearing them off on tree limbs and not noticing until I got home. The one on there now has a piece of wire looped through the flange and tied to the frame so I don’t lose it.

I’ll back up what everyone else is saying. Torque converter, 10/60 gearing and a stage one. You’ll have no issue with climbing a hill and on a steep hill you will most likely have to back off the throttle to keep from looping it over. You will not have to flint stone yourself around.

My CT200U is a tank off road.
Yep. Where I ride there's one hill that can't get a running start to climb and has to be powered up at a slow speed. I wouldn't even attempt it with my stock bike with a jackshaft. My bike with a TAV and gearing climbs it nicely.
 
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