coleman ct200u help - stalls/running rich

#1
Hey everyone! First post, good to join you, and thanks in advance for the help!

I'd rate myself at a C or a D when it comes to working on motors of any kind. I can tell you what's what, but as far as diagnosing an issue or doing complicated work....forget it. However, with a cheap little bike like the Coleman CT200U, I'd prefer to tinker with it myself as opposed to paying for service somewhere.

I just swapped the stock carb (fuel mixture and idle screws tack welded, no adjustment) with this one https://www.amazon.com/Carburetor-G...uPWNsaWNrUmVkaXJlY3QmZG9Ob3RMb2dDbGljaz10cnVl , which got good reviews from other users of this bike, most even saying they needed no adjustments after. I thought this would fix my issue, but it didn't. Also replaced stock plug to NGK model recently.

Here's the problems from I'm seeing:

Putting out a lot of smoke and soot (running rich?)
Will start up okay with the choke on, and idles a little rough after turning choke off
Will stall after giving it gas for a minute
Will stall almost immediately once going full throttle

I've attempted adjusting the fuel screw numerous different times to tinker with it, and no difference.

Anyone with some help? My kids are patiently waiting me to get this thing back on the road.
 

SAS289

Well-Known Member
#2
What issue did you have prior to replacing the carb?

If it is running that rich maybe the carb came with a stuck float. You would have to pull the bowl off to make sure it is not stuck down.
 
#3
What issue did you have prior to replacing the carb?

If it is running that rich maybe the carb came with a stuck float. You would have to pull the bowl off to make sure it is not stuck down.
it was definitely putting out smoke/soot before swapping the carb as well, but after sitting over the winter and spring, had a lot of trouble getting ti to start. Once we got it fired up, it was stalling out similar to now - after a minute or so of getting gas or at full throttle.
 

SAS289

Well-Known Member
#4
What else was done besides the carb and spark plug? Did you get rid of the old fuel?

Does it run the same if you remove the air filter and run it? See if it changes without the air filter.
 
#5
What else was done besides the carb and spark plug? Did you get rid of the old fuel?

Does it run the same if you remove the air filter and run it? See if it changes without the air filter.
Yes. Dumped the old fuel and put in premium 93 thinking old nasty fuel could have been the issue.

I'll try it without the air box tonight and see.
 
#6
No need to run premium in that engine. If anything it'll run better with 87 in it.

How's the plug look? Is it oily at all?

I recently had an engine that was smoking and running horribly. Oil was either getting past the rings or by the valve guides. It had an oily plug and a small puddle of oil in the cylinder when I pulled the head. It happened fairly quickly with it too. Ended up just replacing the engine since the bike it was on was hammered to hell and back when I bought it.
 
#7
Pulled
No need to run premium in that engine. If anything it'll run better with 87 in it.

How's the plug look? Is it oily at all?

I recently had an engine that was smoking and running horribly. Oil was either getting past the rings or by the valve guides. It had an oily plug and a small puddle of oil in the cylinder when I pulled the head. It happened fairly quickly with it too. Ended up just replacing the engine since the bike it was on was hammered to hell and back when I bought it.
Pulled the plug the other day (aside from being somewhat loose --- YIKES), it was definitely black and wet, I figured it was fuel, but maybe it was oil.
 
#8
Pulled


Pulled the plug the other day (aside from being somewhat loose --- YIKES), it was definitely black and wet, I figured it was fuel, but maybe it was oil.
Could be worth it to pull the head and see how things look. If you're not real comfortable with doing that, I'd consider it as a last resort before buying a new engine. Pulling the head is easy, but you will need to set the valve lash when putting it back together. That's also pretty easy to do, but can be intimidating your first time doing it. Sometimes it just takes too many tries to get it right (dealing with thousandths of an inch). There are videos on Youtube showing how to do it. You'll need a set of feeler gauges.

I'd definitely wait and see if more people chime in with other things to check though. What I had happen was pretty much a worst case scenario (aside from hard parts breaking). IF you do go with a new engine in it, pull the old one fully apart to see how they work. These engines are pretty simple when you get them broken down.
 
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