Combining a torque converter and a jack shaft.

#1
Looks like most TC's come with short output shaft and its own bearings. How hard is it to replace their shaft with a long one with pillow block bearing so I have a shaft to mount brakes and easier options on sprocket alignments? I know I will loose the ability to do more gearing options like this as opposed to a separate jack shaft. One idea I have is to stack dual sprockets on the rear wheel and duel sprockets on the jack shaft with different ratios. With a quick chain swap I could have a cruiser or a stump puller. Similar what the earlier Honda Trail 90's and some of the Suzuki 185's had eons ago.
 
#2
I have a similar setup, drive pulley on the crank, driven pulley on a jackshaft. It is a jr dragster style clutch and not a torque converter but the outcome is the same. I don't think it matters as long as the jackshaft is securely mounted. Pillow block style mount should be fine you will just need locking collars to keep the shaft from walking side to side.
Not sure if you can use the stock location on the t/c mounting plate or not, I think that might depend on the bike/motor.
I don't have a stock driven clutch on a jackshaft though my jackshaft is mounted independently.
 
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#3
After reading this again, I am not sure what exactly you are asking.
Are you wanting to keep the entire torque converter, or do you want to remove the driven clutch and replace with sprocket?
Guess I should have asked before responding sorry about that.
 

KB2ROCKET

Active Member
#4
If you are asking can you replace the jack shaft on a torq a verter with a longer one ? then I believe that you can just make sure it is supported and that it can move with the engine Also make sure the new shaft has snap ring grooves where needed .... have fun
 
#5
If you are asking can you replace the jack shaft on a torq a verter with a longer one ? then I believe that you can just make sure it is supported and that it can move with the engine Also make sure the new shaft has snap ring grooves where needed .... have fun
Yup, that's what I was trying to ask. Replace factory short shaft with a full width, bearing supported one. Should give me space to mount a brake and easier to align the sprockets. I found keyed shafts on line in almost any length, I have a 5/8 tap for the converter end. Do I need a snap ring groove or can I just use a bearing stop or whatever that locking ring is called that goes on the shaft? I am trying to put together a list of parts to order and preplan a bit before I open the first beer, err I mean start building.
 
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