Early Bug Flea

#42
Get your chain as close to adjusted by links and offset links then put washers under the motor to fine adjust. This is how you adjust the chain tension on a Skat Kitty jackshaft sprocket to the rear wheel.

O.J.
 

Itype2slo

Well-Known Member
#43
That article was written by the wife of the owner of Bug Engineering, (K&P Engineering) and if anyone does some sleuthing, can see some discrepancies in the verbiage. Go Kart MFG built their own track on their own property, so it stands to reason they would not allow competitive businesses on their track.

As far as the hoops on the early flea, it does make sense they'd used them for a prototype or two. It does not make sense they'd use kart parts for follow on production, since a kart took one of those hoops to build, and a flea bike took three.

Lastly, the comment she makes about Go Kart beating Bug to market with the karts by a week is hugely misleading. Duffy Livingstone, Art Engles and a few others were building and selling karts out of Livingstone's muffler shop way before Bug was a company. However when the Go Kart name was registered as a trademark, and sold under that name, I could concede Faye's point- which is really moot.

This video of Duffy Livingstone might shed some light:

[video=youtube;flBTTmEZ_Pg]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=flBTTmEZ_Pg[/video]
He invented the dart kart but put his money into the Betamax?:doah:
 
#44
You mean you are actually going to ride it? :scooter:
Yeah, you have a point there. I didn't think about that minor detail. :sad:
Yeah, they have to be operational, so that later on they can sit in the garage gathering dust and leaking oil. :eek:

Get your chain as close to adjusted by links and offset links then put washers under the motor to fine adjust. This is how you adjust the chain tension on a Skat Kitty jackshaft sprocket to the rear wheel. O.J.
I appreciate the comments OJ, PM sent in reply.
 
#45
Dave,

Received your PM and understand your concerns.

Don't worry about using the latest and the greatest chain especially that 'space' stuff. A Clinton 2 stroke has such low HP and poor torque its not a chain breaker by any means so get standard 35 so you can use offset links.

As far a flex at the motor plate from washers, probably should have been a little more specific and said "spacer" or"sub-mount" as in full surface coverage on the bottom of the motor. Just throw a few washers under the motor and see if it takes up the tension then cut out a full size plate and sandwich it between the chassis and the motor.

Good luck and looking forward to seeing the complete bike.

O.J.
 
#46
I relined the original band brake. It's your standard 4" band brake, with things welded on the end, and the lining on the outside instead of the inside. The brake on this bike is fairly easy to duplicate, and other data is on preceding pages.

This is 1" woven, 3/16" thick, and it is epoxied on with high temp JB Weld. I get it from ebay. Also, it's the same stuff I use when I redo the Powell brakes.

 
#47
I solved the alignment issue by drilling extra holes in both the A400 base plate as well as the engine plate. There simply was no other way to do it. Period.

I've had the benefit of talking with friends off line on this project, and his is the only other early Flea that "I" am aware of also has the extra holes. Needs pegs- 14" long total according to James C.



Due to some ongoing medical issues, I had to quit drinking many months ago. Quit smoking too. I believe this is a beer left over from last June by my son-in-law. It felt good to caress it's cold, dampness. I forgot what else I was going to say.

 
#49
Using the [MENTION=46062]chipper[/MENTION] trick of using a straight edge, and with the engine as far to the right as it's mounting bolts will allow it:.



I can get .198" by moving the rear wheel to the left- which just allows the brake to clear the frame, but it wont be enough.



Unless I also cut some of the margin off of the clutch from the sprocket to where it rests on the PTO. I have a message out to Jim Donovan on that. Note that we think a vintage Mercury clutch would have had the sprocket flush. Anybody got one in 5/8?

LOL , I wish I had half your tricks , did you see any of our Talladega videos on FB ? All the big ones happened right in front of us this year ! That little sucker is killer Dave !
 
#50
Very nice build Dave, I might have one of those Mercury clutches. NOS. I was going to use it on my Tom Thumb but changed my mind. It was still in the original package. Let me know if your interested and I will double check that I have it.
 
#51
LOL , I wish I had half your tricks , did you see any of our Talladega videos on FB ? All the big ones happened right in front of us this year ! That little sucker is killer Dave !
Thanks Angelo. I didn't see any videos. I'd been off of social media for about six months. Focused mostly on medical issues.

Very nice build Dave, I might have one of those Mercury clutches. NOS. I was going to use it on my Tom Thumb but changed my mind. It was still in the original package. Let me know if your interested and I will double check that I have it.
Thanks Karen. Now that I have it aligned to the Max Torque, I'm good to go. I wonder how this would look sitting side by side to one of your Tom Thumbs. :)
 
#53
I know this bike was originally red because I stripped down the layers of paint on top of it. When deciding on a paint or powder coat these days, many of us will thumb through paint chip books, or look at new car lots and try and find something close. The downside of this is that Old Mini Bikes were painted with vintage enamels, based on the technology of the day, not the catalyzed pearls we see post 1970. In this case, it was 1957-59 red, with a tint of orange. I found that the GM Flame Red from 1954 to the mid sixties was the closest. However, my local store could not handle the code! So I opted for the Chrysler Flame Red of the same vintage. There is zero pearl. Red, magenta, and acrylic binders. I did a terrible job of prep, and even the 2K primer didn't help. It looks more "red" in person.

Art Deco- 1950's Tricycle Seat

 
#54
Here is more detail on the brakes. Note the backing plate is welded to the axle spacer, which is welded to the frame at the axle boss to accomplish anti-rotation duties.



Band brake expands into the drum.

 
#56
How did I miss this thread ?!?!?! :shrug: Dave...I just read through the whole thread , and Thanks for posting pics of the bike ! You know I'm from Ky. and never learned to read or write . :laugh::laugh: As usual you've picked a very cool bike to build .. and may I say that you are doing a excellent job ! :thumbsup: Hoping the health issues are getting better for you to.
 
#59
Lookin' good! I like the red. I guess you will paint the engine to match the wheels?
Engine red paint is almost exactly the same shade as the frame. Thanks for the A400 throttle information! You're a world of knowledge Terry!

How did I miss this thread ?!?!?! :shrug: Dave...I just read through the whole thread , and Thanks for posting pics of the bike ! You know I'm from Ky. and never learned to read or write . :laugh::laugh: As usual you've picked a very cool bike to build .. and may I say that you are doing a excellent job ! :thumbsup: Hoping the health issues are getting better for you to.
I wasn't going to document this here, but Terry (Scramber1) had an interest as well as a few other of the vintage guys who prefer to stay in the background. JTG and James C have been great in providing historical reference and specifications. I thought it prudent to at least share some of the measurements, methods, and history. Health issues prevail. One more go around looks like. Thank you for commenting Eric.

Looking good Dave!
Thanks, I hope it looks as good as you envisioned.

interesting little brake unit. looking good dave.
Thanks. I believe that was the same brake used on the Bug Karts. Having the opportunity to restore a bike as old as me is deeply rewarding.



 
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