Fair Banks Torque Converter Removal

[DonCam]

Guys,
I have a 1970 MTD Torque flight with an HS40 Tecumseh engine. I can't get the engine to stay running so want to check the internals, I have no history on the engine, it wasn't running when I got it.
Anyone know of any tricks to getting the Fairbanks Torque converter driver from the engine output shaft?

The engine will start but has no power at all, won't rev up. I just set the timing at .035 BTDC but haven't tried it yet since I set it. The engine seems to be getting a lot of oil on to the combustion chamber. I did find the breather was plugged up with dirt from a dirt dobber but cleaned it all up and it appears to be working properly now. Oil was coming out of every pore prior to cleaning out the breather.

 

[PatrickCraik]

Guys,
I have a 1970 MTD Torque flight with an HS40 Tecumseh engine. I can't get the engine to stay running so want to check the internals, I have no history on the engine, it wasn't running when I got it.
Anyone know of any tricks to getting the Fairbanks Torque converter driver from the engine output shaft?

The engine will start but has no power at all, won't rev up. I just set the timing at .035 BTDC but haven't tried it yet since I set it. The engine seems to be getting a lot of oil on to the combustion chamber. I did find the breather was plugged up with dirt from a dirt dobber but cleaned it all up and it appears to be working properly now. Oil was coming out of every pore prior to cleaning out the breather.

I Had the same problem,same brand T/C and mini bike. I made a custom puller which spread the pull or load across the rear webbing of the aluminum cone but the shaft was so stuck it was distorting the cone. I used heat on the drive hub or bushing just in front of the cone with no luck. I finally tack welded a threaded bushing onto the t/c hub or bushing tube and was able to pull the whole thing off. The aluminum cone is warped and I think no longer any good. Try tack welding a threaded bushing onto the T/C tube or bushing first. It may pull right off. Looks like I'll just buy a comet drive unit. Good luck.

 

[DonCam]

I Had the same problem,same brand T/C and mini bike. I made a custom puller which spread the pull or load across the rear webbing of the aluminum cone but the shaft was so stuck it was distorting the cone. I used heat on the drive hub or bushing just in front of the cone with no luck. I finally tack welded a threaded bushing onto the t/c hub or bushing tube and was able to pull the whole thing off. The aluminum cone is warped and I think no longer any good. Try tack welding a threaded bushing onto the T/C tube or bushing first. It may pull right off. Looks like I'll just buy a comet drive unit. Good luck.

Thanks
Excellent idea. I was thinking of doing what you tried first but was concerned that what happened to you would also happen to me. I was also thinking of making something that would slip over the shaft and use the snap ring to hold it, concern there is I could possibly pull off the end of the shaft where the snap ring is.

 

[Gdiddy58]

Get a pic of 3/16 steel plate. Cut a out a notch with a torch big enough to fit around the crank.
Drill 2 holes outside the clutch. Use a steering wheel puller to pull it off, works great. I'll get a photo if necessary.
If you've already damaged it I might have one.

 

[DonCam]

Get a pic of 3/16 steel plate. Cut a out a notch with a torch big enough to fit around the crank.
Drill 2 holes outside the clutch. Use a steering wheel puller to pull it off, works great. I'll get a photo if necessary.
If you've already damaged it I might have one.

Another good idea, no need for a picture but thanks for the idea.