Fairbanks morse driven. Help!

[Bbqman]

I'm not rich, I struggle with similar decisions all the time buying parts for my old Fords and tools.

Post that clutch up, the classifieds work pretty good on here.

Thank you, Happy New Year to you too!

Ahh old Ford's.... Someday 1948 f1

 

[Bbqman]

I'm not rich, I struggle with similar decisions all the time buying parts for my old Fords and tools.

Post that clutch up, the classifieds work pretty good on here.

Thank you, Happy New Year to you too !

Ok so I bought a 20 series clone. This is what it looks like on. Won't line up. If I flip the driven around the jackshaft is flush with the driven. Can't shim the driver is barely on there. Very frustrated, didn't look like I can use the original cover too. Anybody have any answers? Thank you

 

[Bbqman]

Ok so I bought a 20 series clone. This is what it looks like on. Won't line up. If I flip the driven around the jackshaft is flush with the driven. Can't shim the driver is barely on there. Very frustrated, didn't look like I can use the original cover too. Anybody have any answers? Thank you

 

[ELT]

View attachment 273729

Those clone clutches have a wider lip on the stationary flange towards the engine. I improved the alignment on one of my bikes by narrowing that flange lip and center hub shoulder in a lathe. I had an origional comet flange for a pattern.

 

[cfh]

it looks like you have 2 washers on the driven. if you take those off you should be good. it is almost lined up. your picture is a bit deceiving in that the moving sheave is not all the way 'out'.

 

[mustangfrank]

Both answers above might do the trick...also you can have the drive shimmed out to leave the crank a little bit short in the clutch.

 

[Bbqman]

it looks like you have 2 washers on the driven. if you take those off you should be good. it is almost lined up. your picture is a bit deceiving in that the moving sheave is not all the way 'out'.

No washers. That is the bearing I think you might see.