Hello guys. I have a 6.5hp Honda clone from a "Baja Warrior" bike. The oil is full of gasoline, causing it to misfire, and not idle properly. I have checked the float bowl in the carburetor to make sure that the needle for the valve is seated properly. Nothing seems to be wrong with the Floater valve, the needle is clean and not deformed, and so is the seat. I cleaned both with a Q-tip just to be sure, as well as cleaned the rest of the carburetor. What do you guys recommend?
Gas is leaking into oil.
- Thread starter L.skynrd
- Start date
- Tags 6.5 clone carberator gas honda clone leak leaking oil
Had something similar with a 302 Bronco this summer that was having starting (ignition) issues after 15-20 minutes off and on cranking over. It's likely getting too much gas in the combustion chamber somehow and washing down past the rings. Was it running fine before you noticed the gas in the oil or did you have starting issues? Super rich/incomplete combustion can lead to it also.
The needle sealing in the seat is one part of that systems function. Float level is the other. If the float level is too high it will allow the fuel bowl to fill up too high and over flow into your bottom end. The system is much like the system in your toilet for lack of a better description
You can bend the small tab on the float that the needle attaches to enabling you to raise or lower your float [fuel] level in the bowl.
Bend the tab very carefully so that the needle seats with less fuel in the bowl. Viewing from the side with the bowl off, the bottom of the float will be higher when the float level is considered to be lower.
Don't be afraid to play with float level.
O.J.
You can bend the small tab on the float that the needle attaches to enabling you to raise or lower your float [fuel] level in the bowl.
Bend the tab very carefully so that the needle seats with less fuel in the bowl. Viewing from the side with the bowl off, the bottom of the float will be higher when the float level is considered to be lower.
Don't be afraid to play with float level.
O.J.
probably all of the above
After long ride the valve sticks,
or RUST FROM TANK a little piece holds needle open
Carburetor bowl will have rust in it as well if especially its chinese
Then it floods cylinder
But needle seat seems to work when cold.
Also clogged airfilter acts as choke creating high vacuum,
(if bike never needs to be choked but used to when cold you may have some filter resistance)
All This combined with clone engine (cheap hardware)
A super over rich condition is washing out rings
..
(Sometimes when i move my bike around i lift back end up to manuever bike
when it drops gas enter float bowl
if you do it enough gas will move float--or if you point back vertical gas will enter)
--add fuel filters
-I would add extra gas shut off valve to isolate tank
Run bowl down
then open for 30 sec then close few times when engine is hot before shutoff after long ride
--With ethanol in fuel
It made carburetors in the class of
--"If you dont use it you lose it"
-30 days shelf life on fuel
-Change oil, luckily its only 20 ounces
-Use 5w 30 no higher
-The engines take a while to get warm then they run best
If any of this makes sense
After long ride the valve sticks,
or RUST FROM TANK a little piece holds needle open
Carburetor bowl will have rust in it as well if especially its chinese
Then it floods cylinder
But needle seat seems to work when cold.
Also clogged airfilter acts as choke creating high vacuum,
(if bike never needs to be choked but used to when cold you may have some filter resistance)
All This combined with clone engine (cheap hardware)
A super over rich condition is washing out rings
..
(Sometimes when i move my bike around i lift back end up to manuever bike
when it drops gas enter float bowl
if you do it enough gas will move float--or if you point back vertical gas will enter)
--add fuel filters
-I would add extra gas shut off valve to isolate tank
Run bowl down
then open for 30 sec then close few times when engine is hot before shutoff after long ride
--With ethanol in fuel
It made carburetors in the class of
--"If you dont use it you lose it"
-30 days shelf life on fuel
-Change oil, luckily its only 20 ounces
-Use 5w 30 no higher
-The engines take a while to get warm then they run best
If any of this makes sense
