Well I was wrong the first time about your needle position, so I don't know if you should trust me. But if I had to guess I'd say turn it out a hair. Maybe two. There's a Mikuni tuning manual floating around here. It gives a good lesson in the concepts of what all's going on in there.
Well I was wrong the first time about your needle position, so I don't know if you should trust me. But if I had to guess I'd say turn it out a hair. Maybe two. There's a Mikuni tuning manual floating around here. It gives a good lesson in the concepts of what all's going on in there.
It’s a process…it may take days…different jets, different needle positions…on a built motor I even needed a different slide…some think this is a slap and go….good luck
Now if your using a Chinese carb…especially the common 2547 I believe the number to be, the air mix is back by the flange and this happens to be the most suck ass carb on the market, and if you have one beat it with a hammer…
I have one, but I haven't found a fitting, upswept "scrambler" type pipe for it yet, so I sits on a shelf.
I have often wondered how one of these OHC engines would rev up with the proper valve springs and exhaust.
It's a lot more involved than the simple L bend headers for the clones. That more graceful, gradual 180° turn at the front, not anything sharp, seems about right.
I agree, the gearing for this will be way too tall with such a small rear sprocket and the big wheels. The Sears bikes with the bigger wheels had a jackshaft from the factory to reduce the gear ratio to something reasonable.
I am running a torque converter on it. but I did fix the pulling. the torque converter needs fress molly dry Lube. but the air fuel mixture screw didn't seem to help
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