Getting 2hp to run...

#1
View attachment 35885

This is a KS-19 STD 2hp Briggs and Stratton. This site has helped me alot already, but now I'm stumped. The points are good and clean with a good spark, the carb has been cleaned, and it turns over easily- but it wont start. I'm just now getting into real engine work, and any advice/help would be great!
 
#6
Sometimes when a briggs engine sits for a long period of time a valve can become stuck open.Pull the spark plug to look and see if this is your problem.If it is (pull the head)put some PB nutbuster on the valve stem and tap it down with a hammer.Turn the flywheel if the valve sticks open repeat the process until the valve frees up.Make sure the other valve is up before tapping the other down so you know its not on a high lobe.

Rocco...
 
#7
Ok, pulled the head and valves look good and working. Cleaned alot of carbon out, too. Now I would have to have the head milled to increase compression, right?
 
#8
Check where your air/fuel setting is ... Start with 1 1/2 turns out and try it again ... I've had 2 hp briggs engines that sat around for over 10 years and they still with a little cleaning fired right up ...
 
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#9
Previously posted by Rockwall, in part:
"You did replace the diaphram right ??"
The OP mentions, and the photo displayed, show a B & S 2 HP which I believe used the "Vacu-jet" carb that did not have a diaphram like the "Pulsa-Jet" used on the 3 Hp and larger engines.
 
#10
Previously posted by Rockwall, in part:
"You did replace the diaphram right ??"
The OP mentions, and the photo displayed, show a B & S 2 HP which I believe used the "Vacu-jet" carb that did not have a diaphram like the "Pulsa-Jet" used on the 3 Hp and larger engines.
Ahh ... Right ... WTF was I thinking :doah: ... 2hp ... I had them on the shelves for years ... Pitched every one of them to the junk man ...

Is that all the input you have ??
 
#11
ok briggs comp test . first ground out the coil you dont want a spark . next remove the recoil and turn the motor over you should feel it hit compression . now turn it back like a 1/2 turn and flick it towards compression .if its got good comp it will rebound nice and sharp and fast . watch fingers doing this you can get pinched .
if it dont rebound nice and sharp put a small amount of oil in the cylinder (like a pop cap worth ) and with the plug out turn it over a few times . now put plug back in and retry . if it improves your rings are shot or stuck if not you have other issues . like the valves are not sealing head gasket is toast head is warped and not sealing . another way to test is with the head off put your hand over the piston and turn the motor over . if you have really good rings the piston will dam near suck your hand in to the block and will be hard as hell to turn over a full turn .
 
#12
Usually I don't come across too many small engines that have such bad compression that they won't run at all. Most likely theirs something in the carb, or elsewhere, your missing. Like someone said earlier, sometimes the mixture is off a little and it wont even fire. After trying to start it for a while, you can take the plug out and see if its wet, which would tell you it's flooded and getting too much fuel.
 
#13
I'm pretty sure its the compression- I don't feel a point of ANY resistance from turning the flywheel. The 12hp K-301 on my Cub Cadet has a compression so that it'll take quite a bit of torque to get through, and has a sharp pop back so I know what it should feel like, (though id image less on a 2hp).

What can be done to fix this? I got the engine for free, so if I can get her running for less than what it'd cost to buy another...
 
#14
well if its got nothing for compression see if you can find out why . puting oil in the cylinder will help seal the piston and rings if they are bad make more compression . if that dont do anything then look for leaks like the valves . being stuck or bent maybe needing grinding or cleaned like a pile of shit keeping it open .
there is only 3 places for pressure to go in the block past the piston out the head gasket or a crack in the block or out the valves .
 
#15
Ok, pulled the head and valves look good and working. Cleaned alot of carbon out, too. Now I would have to have the head milled to increase compression, right?
Sometimes you have to look really close to see a burned exhaust valve. It doesn't take much damage to affect the sealing.
 
#16
Ok, I've replaced the bad rings and have lapped the valves so the compression's alot better. But now the thing won't fire because it now has no spark. You can feel the electricity, but it isn't as strong as it was right after I cleaned the points. I tried a new plug but it wouldn't spark either-
Should I try cleaning the points again? But why would they rust again so soon? I did silicon that hole the wire come out through
 
#17
I would reseat the points. Make sure the coil points and plug are all gapped to factory specs.

I had this problem with a 63' 4 HP I found in barn that was wasted. It took some trial and error but I gapped everything slightly big.

Though have you checked if the flywheel key is sheared? Had that problem too.
 

oldfatguy

Active Member
#18
could be some oil on the points, let them close on a match book cover or some folded up paper . Pull the paper from the closed points this should clean the oil off. I have a briggs that's real hard to start because of low compression. The problem is caused by the valve guides being worn. I can actually move the valves side to side in the guide bores. Also check your valves, looks to see if the valve is pitted where it contacts the seat. Use a feeler gauge to check the valve lash because might not have enough and a valve isn't closing all the way. It does sound like you did fix the compression problem so hopefully once you get spark it will fire up.
 
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