Governor Crank Gear Removal

#1
Hey guys, if I remove the governor gear off the crank but leave the plastic gear and armature to achieve the stock look and linkage would it just kind of be hanging out in the case? I'm looking at doing this on a Predator 212 Hemi. I'm trying to replicate a higher RPM around 5000-6000 with the stock cam and rod. I'll be putting a PVL on it with a 4 degree key and 22 pound springs.
 

SAS289

Well-Known Member
#2
I was recently bench testing an engine that I left the gear off the crank with the stock governor arm and stock linkage in place. All you have to do is attach a spring to the governor arm that pulls AWAY from the carb. The spring doesn't need a lot of tension and can be a light spring. Any slop in the arrangement is forgiven by the original throttle spring. You can turn the throttle screw in to take away excess (an unneeded) throttle travel.

You still need a return spring for the throttle linkage. You end up with 2 throttle return springs. The extra is for the governor arm.
 
#3
I was recently bench testing an engine that I left the gear off the crank with the stock governor arm and stock linkage in place. All you have to do is attach a spring to the governor arm that pulls AWAY from the carb. The spring doesn't need a lot of tension and can be a light spring. Any slop in the arrangement is forgiven by the original throttle spring. You can turn the throttle screw in to take away excess (an unneeded) throttle travel.

You still need a return spring for the throttle linkage. You end up with 2 throttle return springs. The extra is for the governor arm.
Someone mentioned that the gear on the crank itself is an oil slinger but I don't think it is. Did you leave the actual plastic gear in there? I'd tap it out and plug the hole but I'm trying to make it look stock so nobody notices. I'm telling my friends that the extra spring is just for crispy throttle return.
 

SAS289

Well-Known Member
#4
Yes the plastic gear assembly was still in place.

I wouldn't run this way unless I found a way to use 2 light springs for the governor arm. All that does is return the throttle on the carb to the idle position. If you use 1 spring there would be a problem if it breaks while riding.

Too heavy a spring there may add too much stress on the throttle shaft on the carb.
 
#5
I'm starting to see a governorless linkage in my near future . Whats your thought on a Predator Hemi 212, stock cam, stock rod, PVL with a 4 degree key, Ruixing carb w/ 140 tube/37 jet/.018 idle, 3910x plug and 22# springs. Think I'd toss the rod to easy? I see people do mikunis on what I assume are stock rods a lot. I two 196s and a screaming 168f/163qx2 that are fully built so I'm trying something different. I see the new Tillotson 212r mk2 doing 5800 rpm and a Ducar 5200 out of the box. I'm trying to copy that concept.
 
#8
That means I have to wait for ARC to catch up on manufacturing. Yuck. Better safe than sorry, you guys are right. I've built all my motors out right might as well stick to it. Thanks for the insight!
 
#9
Me three! Plus I would never leave the governor arm or gear in. I understand what you want to do and it will work but if the arm ever gets loose and the rod hits it then the case gets cracked. I'm pretty sure the governor depends on it operating to pull the throttle closed to the idle position. If you start it up with the governor drive gear not turning the governor itself (caused you removed it) the motor will free rev. I think that is why SAS 289 said to add a spring to pull the throttle closed. You should just remove the governor entirely and get a top plate with the throttle hookup on it.
 
#10
Me three! Plus I would never leave the governor arm or gear in. I understand what you want to do and it will work but if the arm ever gets loose and the rod hits it then the case gets cracked. I'm pretty sure the governor depends on it operating to pull the throttle closed to the idle position. If you start it up with the governor drive gear not turning the governor itself (caused you removed it) the motor will free rev. I think that is why SAS 289 said to add a spring to pull the throttle closed. You should just remove the governor entirely and get a top plate with the throttle hookup on it.
Yup. I'm lucky I found a Hemi I might as well treat it right. I came so close to buying a Tillotson 212r mk2 but they jacked the price to $320, delivered, but still seems like it should be a $225-$250 motor. If they already put the rod in I'd buy it, but by the time you add a rod, springs and stage the dang thing your in the $500 range. Thats not very cool.
 
#11
Yup. I'm lucky I found a Hemi I might as well treat it right. I came so close to buying a Tillotson 212r mk2 but they jacked the price to $320, delivered, but still seems like it should be a $225-$250 motor. If they already put the rod in I'd buy it, but by the time you add a rod, springs and stage the dang thing your in the $500 range. Thats not very cool.
On my JF200 for my Trailmaster Storm 200 I deleted the governor and took that metal gear off. That thing is a ripper with a CS grind cam, 22# springs and a 14cc head! I've used PVLs on all my other motors, should i go with a ARC billet? If so, is the Speedway worth waiting for or should I go with the regular one with the 8 degrees built right in?
 
#14
I was not aware of this. Thanks. My bad.
At least I said I'm installing a billet flywheel and leaving the stock springs in order to float. I'm just not sure how some motors can govern at 5200-5800 with stock 196 performance cams, cast aluminum flywheels and not have billet rods. Every rod I've replaced all look the same stock so I was under the impression this was a legit idea. I would never want to lead someone astray either.
 
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