H35 Rebuild Log

#1
Hey all,

I have decided to rebuild my H35. It has terrible shaft play, and it's had a rough life. :doah:
I am fairly sure I have the lighting coil? It would be cool for sure! It says magneto on the small cover.

I will post a picture of the numbers. I think its a 1964 motor. any info on her would be nice to have. I have done quite a few briggs builds but have never looked into tecs. :thumbsup:

I have no governor linkages, and New Zealand doesn't have many of them :laugh: Maybe ill have some luck on ebay...:confused:
I will buy some decals, but I am not sure what ones to buy for this engine.

I will also get a gesket set, but I'm confused on why none of the ones I have seen come with oil seals :eek:ut:

Serial Numbers: H35 45430J SER 4266B

Thanks!





Exhaust Leak :laugh:




 
#2
That is weird I have never seen one of the round shrouds with the numbers stamped there. And I think that it is a 74 because of the stamped shroud. I believe that around 74 and 75 is when they went to the square shrouded engines with the numbers stamped on to the top. But then again I could be completely wrong.
 

markus

Well-Known Member
#7
That is weird I have never seen one of the round shrouds with the numbers stamped there. And I think that it is a 74 because of the stamped shroud. I believe that around 74 and 75 is when they went to the square shrouded engines with the numbers stamped on to the top. But then again I could be completely wrong.
On the H engines, they held out on converting to steel wheel and square shroud for a little bit. They also used the more modern throttle control like you can still buy today. I think they went 10 years with the style rivet on plates we are used to and then switched to the direct stamping.

Not the greatest pics but this is the engine on the white duster chopper that got saved and resides now at "Dereks Big cat rescue" in MN


This bike was a 1974 (original engine to the bike) too but earlier numbers if I recall and it had a plate on it still



Things seemed to make changes a couple months into the year with them.

Jakeo, Yea it kinda sucks the sets dont come with seals, I think the big reason maybe there are varitees of the seal available for the output side, and I would guess they would go probably 95% wasted in a kit. Lots of people call a decarboning a top end a "rebuild" and wont go into the case unless there is a problem. even if they do some people won't change the seals :doah:

That is not a lighted flywheel engine BTW 1974 Weren't they named "Kirby" over there :shrug:
 
#12
I have recently kicked off on this project again. It will be going on my Taco style bike. I disliked the white paint that was on there so I buffed it all off and painted it silver. Since the bike will be metallic green, I chose to paint the bolts green as well. I have ordered new piston rings, which will arrive here in the next few weeks.

I was going to purchase a cheap new bowl Carb from Hong Kong, are they any good?

Also, I need a new rear seal. I found that the front and rear are different in size. What rear seal do I need to purchase?

I have no clue which way the upper valve retainers go. There's an indent on the block, and an extruding lip on the retainer, so I would imagine it just fits in.

Next up is to finish painting, wait for parts and re-assemble! I need a new sticker for the shroud also. Thinking of finding another moon sticker :thumbsup:





 
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#14
Need a way to hook up my throttle. I went and ordered the linkage that goes on the side of the shroud before realising that it needs the governor :doah: My motor did not have a governor when I got it, looked like it was chopped off! Not the end of the world though, I'll have to figure something out...

Can I buy one of those cheap 22mm carbs with the throttle on top? Will that just bolt up to the Teumseh manifold?

I will be putting new rings in this but do not want to hone it as I have heard bad things about honing alu. cylinders! Will the new rings be fine without a hone?
 
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#16
New 19mm Carb Hooked Up :laugh:
Hey, NICE JOB! I notice few people have openly commented on your questions. I do hone aluminum bores, check bore, and generally go with .010 rings and set min. ring end gap. Lap valves with compound. I guess you're passed all that. I hope you figured out the timing.

If you get these running right, they have a lot more torque than the HS40 does. I think they're great engines. Interested to see how it runs with the 19mm carb. These engines run better with shorter exhausts, no muffler, just don't let the exhaust valve cool too fast after shut down.
 
#17
Hey, NICE JOB! I notice few people have openly commented on your questions. I do hone aluminum bores, check bore, and generally go with .010 rings and set min. ring end gap. Lap valves with compound. I guess you're passed all that. I hope you figured out the timing.

If you get these running right, they have a lot more torque than the HS40 does. I think they're great engines. Interested to see how it runs with the 19mm carb. These engines run better with shorter exhausts, no muffler, just don't let the exhaust valve cool too fast after shut down.
Thanks for your feedback! I have already ordered standard rings, so would a hone still be worth it? The bore is actually really clean, with minimal scoring, which is very surprising judging by the condition of the rest of the motor. The fins by the bolt hole where the heat shield thing goes on have been snapped off, The headbolt threads are near finished, and somebody drilled an extra hole next to one of the mounting holes. This motor has had a rough life but is actually very clean inside, rod has no scoring, and the block and crank journals are mint!:thumbsup:

The next thing I need to work out is drilling a hole in the end of the crank. It is solid, 15mm I think (5/8ths). I know I can get a clutch for this size.

This motor came with a rusty Briggs fuel tank, but that's being replaced by a new minibike style round tank.

 
#19
Looking good Jackeo,,,, what you could do is run the stock side pooper muffler and cap the front, drill two holes on the back of it and weld on two baloney cut pipes , ( top shorter than the bottom). It looks pretty good and sounds great.

I did this to one bike but don't have a pic of it and won't be at the mountain house for a few weeks.:doah:

Also, I love running the Mikuni's on those engines , they always start first pull and aren't as susceptible from sitting long periods of time.


Pic of the wrong side.:doah:

 
#20
OND, I'm gonna need a bit of help on that I think. I was planning on mounting it on the rear, behind the seat sorta thing. I have seen a few bikes with that setup and I like the look of it. How are they usually mounted?

At least I think I have a filter sorted. I brought a bunch of NOS Briggs parts a while back and got a cool NOS glass bowl filter. I saw a bike with one. I hope the threads are the same as those of the fuel tank, not sure yet.

 

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