I just put a 3hp briggs flathead on my db30, I want to connect the existing kill switch, I have an idea how to do it, but have no time to mess around, could anybody please post pics of how it hooks up for me? Thanks. I am pretty sure that one goes to the coil and the other to the ground but I wanna make sure.
Help connecting kill switch on a Briggs Flatty
Are you talking about the old flat metal piece that usually goes on between a head bolt and the shroud? I'm scared of those too, but have had them on a few Tecumsehs. I put one on one of my projects just because I like the old school look. I bought a toggle switch to use for a kill switch, but don't have it figured out yet. Should be simple I know. I might have the wrong kind though. Good luck.
hahahahah been there a time or two . ya it sucks trying to hit that kill strip at warp 5 .
but just hook to the points or the little tab on the coil body and it will kill it when you ground out the wire .
zeeman if your looking to put a kill on a tec if it has points all you need to do is pop off the flywheel and hook a wire to the points stud by the crank . and then to the switch . you would need like 2 pieces of wire and 2 ring terminals one goes to the stud and the other on the frame .switch in the middle easy . newer coils not to sure tho , dont work with many of them but there should be a small tab on the side of the coil . ground that and it dies .
but just hook to the points or the little tab on the coil body and it will kill it when you ground out the wire .
zeeman if your looking to put a kill on a tec if it has points all you need to do is pop off the flywheel and hook a wire to the points stud by the crank . and then to the switch . you would need like 2 pieces of wire and 2 ring terminals one goes to the stud and the other on the frame .switch in the middle easy . newer coils not to sure tho , dont work with many of them but there should be a small tab on the side of the coil . ground that and it dies .
huh well should be one contact to the points from the switch and the other to a ground from the switch .one way spark and the other no sparkey . could be a bad switch :shrug: , its not common but does happen new parts dont work .hook a light to the switch and see if it will turn on and off , if not bad switch . ya flick kill switches can be much better then the hold down ones .
as stupid as it sounds sometimes 3 grade tech works better then you would think .
kinda like when you just cant find that short in the wiring any where . put a way over rated fuse in it and it may just show you . had that happen on my car years ago some thing shorted out in the turn signal and i couldnt find it . spent hours tearing looms apart checking bulk heads and plugs,sockets . no luck:censure: well fine were is my 40 amp fuses that will show me what wire is blown. not a smart way to find it but as a last resort before the dikes and new wire time :shrug:it did work . i was finally able to find the short ... the light its self not the socket, the dam bulb was shorted . but the messed up part it still light up !!!! never did figure out what was going on with it or how it shorted out to still work but pop fuses like that .
i dont recommend that people do that tho you could really mess up your car or other electronic stuff . maybe even light it on fire . i had fire extinguishers at the ready and a good idea where the problem was (front harness). with all wiring in the open so i could see if it did light on fire and a master disconnect on the main power feed to the car .
kinda like when you just cant find that short in the wiring any where . put a way over rated fuse in it and it may just show you . had that happen on my car years ago some thing shorted out in the turn signal and i couldnt find it . spent hours tearing looms apart checking bulk heads and plugs,sockets . no luck:censure: well fine were is my 40 amp fuses that will show me what wire is blown. not a smart way to find it but as a last resort before the dikes and new wire time :shrug:it did work . i was finally able to find the short ... the light its self not the socket, the dam bulb was shorted . but the messed up part it still light up !!!! never did figure out what was going on with it or how it shorted out to still work but pop fuses like that .
i dont recommend that people do that tho you could really mess up your car or other electronic stuff . maybe even light it on fire . i had fire extinguishers at the ready and a good idea where the problem was (front harness). with all wiring in the open so i could see if it did light on fire and a master disconnect on the main power feed to the car .
I hear you Metal Man. Sometimes you just gotta do what you gotta do. I am really scared of electricity due to quite a big (220) charge I got as a very young adult just setting up a household. But, I have gotten so mad at an engine that would not fire that I put a drill on it to spin the thing over while I held the plug wire. I basically dared that engine to shock me. It did. I believe it had a little spark, just not enough to show up at the plug very well. I guess the drill spun it fast enough to shock me pretty good. Oh how we learn things. Or I do at times.
You're not alone zee, I did the same thing, holding the plug wire down to make sure i got good conection while turning the engine over...of all times the engine decided to make a spark! Even though when you spend late night in the shop gettting shocked keeps you on your toes like a midget at a urinal.:thumbsup:
The new briggs modules have a grounding wire on them that is what it is for. I found a push to kill switch drilled a hole in the upper air shroud where it was easy to reach, hooked the module wire to one side and the ground to the other. On my Tule trooper, just drop my hand and it is right there. Works great!