Help me pick out a bilet rod...

#1
I have a 212 hemi on my motovox 13Tclutch 75rear sprocket.
Mods are
ARC Flywheel 1.75lb +8* BT 32*total
Intake spacer/cold air
Gx140 tube .037 jet
26lb springs
Straight pipe
I also have a tach/hour meter so I can monitor my oil changes and rpm.


So.....
I am on my second engine that is starting to lock up or "lay over" when it gets to temp.

I think 7380 is too much for the stock rod, end of story. 5w20 this go around instead of rotella like last time might have done it too.

Crank is discolored from heat but the crank still rotates over. I'm going to warranty it with harbor freight
BUT
I want to buy a billet rod(would like to use the stock piston) but am not just completely opposed to a weisco.
How much rpm will I lose with a longer stroke? Stock is like 3.30 and the bore is 2.576 iirc.
Going with an ARC but don't know which one I should do. I'm satisfied with current Rpm and mph(56.5) maybe more stroke and more torque with my little cam I haven't installed yet.


I've gotten pretty good at swapping parts off of a predator lol like a top fuel drag team :D

Cliffs
So 3 questions: which rod?
Also want to back the timing down some so I need a key to adjust about 4*'s out of it... Where do I get that?


Also any of you guys lock some 212's up spinning them to the moon?
 
#4
Removing the governor and spinning it to 7k doesn't entitle you to anything. That makes you a thief.
Aren't you the same person that was whining on Facebook about how the ARC flywheel is junk? Can't pull start it?
By the way, you aren't adding stroke by changing Rod length. You are changing where the piston operates in the bore. Read up on the advantages.


Sent from my Texas Instruments Speak and Spell...[emoji2]
 
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#5
Yea I hate the flywheel... I backed the idle screw down and it stopped kicking back so violently. Like I'm okay with a little kick back but it gets to a point where it is silly.

The lady at the store talked me into the warranty. Idgaf what I'm "entitled" to, the broad at HF asked if I wanted the 2 year. Before I said yes, I asked her "so can I bring this engine in here just scattered to pieces and get a new one?"
"Yea"

"No like, a week from now... Can I bring this thing in there cracked in half and warranty it?"

"Yea as long as you drain the oil and gas"
I was like
"So a million pieces??"

She said "as long as you drain the fluids"


You can try to push that whole "entitled" thing on me but this isn't what I do... I don't go around abusing warranty systems just to do it. I'm sorry she talked me into warrantying a very high risk item.
 
#7
I am suspect, not entirely sure but suspect that the 32* is way too much and it may have been beating the rod to death in the low - mid range RPM @wot. Either way I want less timing than 32... Probably around 28
 
#8
Removing the governor and spinning it to 7k doesn't entitle you to anything. That makes you a thief.

Warranty coverage shall also be excluded for any part which fails, malfunctions, or is damaged due to failure to follow the maintenance and operating instructions set forth in the Owner’s Manual including, but not limited to:
a) Use of parts which are not authorized by HFT
b) Improper installation, adjustment or repair of the engine or of any warranted part unless performed by an authorized warranty center
c) Failure to follow recommendations on fuel use contained in the Owner’s Manual
d) Improper or inadequate maintenance of any warranted parts
e) Repairs performed outside of the authorized warranty service dealers
f) Alterations by changing, adding to or removing parts from the engine.
 
#9
So basically just for the record so I get this straight...
I bought a warranty and am going to use it to get a new engine. Y'all think that is crazy and I am a thief. Meanwhile people are on welfare and getting back $8k in tax returns but it's okay because they are just "using the system".

More or less, even though I bought a warranty under the pretense I could return it no matter what, since the warranty states other than the store representative I should not return it and just eat $160.

No thanks. Call me what you want.
 
#10
#1 rotella? no. you need to be running a much heavier oil . in my pred , i use none other than full synthetic 15w-50 made by napa . i can run my bike everyday for two weeks to a month before i need to change the oil. and your not going to warranty anything from harbour frieght that you modified , they wont accept it back because you voided the warranty when you modded it.its getting hot like that because of the thin oil your using . you should replace that crankshaft 20-30$ , entirely redo your valve lash , put a decent oil in your engine , its the first thing that protects those spendy parts. ive been running the same 212 pred for over two years . finally sucked a valve the other day . gotta be careful with these modded engines , you get the timing wrong youll rip your arm off trying to start it, you get the lash wrong it runs like crap, if at all , you put cheap oil in it burns up . if 1 quart of oil isnt 7.00 to 13.00 its probably no where near what your engine needs . more power more rpm - more lube more stable oil is needed because at rpm the oil will start bubblin like a bottle of dishsoap at a car wash, at that point it might as well be water in there cause its about to burn up.
 
#11
#1 rotella? no. you need to be running a much heavier oil . in my pred , i use none other than full synthetic 15w-50 made by napa . i can run my bike everyday for two weeks to a month before i need to change the oil. and your not going to warranty anything from harbour frieght that you modified , they wont accept it back because you voided the warranty when you modded it.its getting hot like that because of the thin oil your using . you should replace that crankshaft 20-30$ , entirely redo your valve lash , put a decent oil in your engine , its the first thing that protects those spendy parts. ive been running the same 212 pred for over two years . finally sucked a valve the other day . gotta be careful with these modded engines , you get the timing wrong youll rip your arm off trying to start it, you get the lash wrong it runs like crap, if at all , you put cheap oil in it burns up . if 1 quart of oil isnt 7.00 to 13.00 its probably no where near what your engine needs . more power more rpm - more lube more stable oil is needed because at rpm the oil will start bubblin like a bottle of dishsoap at a car wash, at that point it might as well be water in there cause its about to burn up.
Rotella isn't thin, 15w45 ... But the 5w20 is ... I agree. I would also agree with you about the warranty deal if I haven't already done it... So I don't really have a problem with that.

I'm just wondering about a bilet rod and if I can use my stock piston. It suggest aftermarket Pistons for just about all of them on the website. Guess I will just call ARC as I just get lectured here about how to void warranties.

How many rpm are you spinning your predator? What mods are done if you don't have a tach?
 

CarPlayLB

Well-Known Member
#12
My .02
Go BUY a new engine without any plans of returning it! Once you have the new engine, pull the head. Some of the Pred motors have the piston .020 or more in the hole. Measure it. If it is .020 in the hole, but the rod that is .020 longer and use your stock piston. It will be fine. Then pull the rest of the motor apart and take the governor stuff and low oil sensor out. Plug the holes.
I always use 30 wt or thicker oil. It needs to stick to the parts. On an engine with no pressured oil supply, you don't want the thin oil. Splash lube motors will enjoy a longer life with a bit thicker oil! The race guys will use thin oil in hopes of making more power, but may only run one or two heats before a rebuild.

If you can afford a Z06, you certainly can pop the hundred dollars for your own new engine!
 

Twid

Active Member
#13
So 3 questions: which rod?
Also want to back the timing down some so I need a key to adjust about 4*'s out of it... Where do I get that?
Which rod? You need to see how far your in the hole.

For the timing get a degree wheel don't use a key.

I'd junk the Chinese motor and get a Briggs.
 
#14
So just throw my predator and the 2 year warranty away? Buy new motor to build.... Good advice guises... Thanks.

Really though I will measure like was mentioned and order the rod once I warranty this one out.
 
#15
My .02
Go BUY a new engine without any plans of returning it! Once you have the new engine, pull the head. Some of the Pred motors have the piston .020 or more in the hole. Measure it. If it is .020 in the hole, but the rod that is .020 longer and use your stock piston. It will be fine. Then pull the rest of the motor apart and take the governor stuff and low oil sensor out. Plug the holes.
I always use 30 wt or thicker oil. It needs to stick to the parts. On an engine with no pressured oil supply, you don't want the thin oil. Splash lube motors will enjoy a longer life with a bit thicker oil! The race guys will use thin oil in hopes of making more power, but may only run one or two heats before a rebuild.

If you can afford a Z06, you certainly can pop the hundred dollars for your own new engine!
I can afford a z06 because I don't make dumb life choices like blowing an extra $100 on an engine that I have a warranty on. The woman shouldn't have pushed it on me so hard if it wasn't meant to be bought and used. Didn't say shit about the last 212 I brought back locked up like a safe.
 
#16
Wow. What morals. So you'll blame society and contribute to the problem. Sad....


Sent from my Texas Instruments Speak and Spell...[emoji2]
 
#17
Wow. What morals. So you'll blame society and contribute to the problem. Sad....


Sent from my Texas Instruments Speak and Spell...[emoji2]
Yea me exchanging an engine I paid $168 for after warranty is the equivalent of stealing and using the government.

Truthfully I don't care that much of what you think unless it has to do with
Removing base timing from the arc flywheel or your experience from buying a bilet rod and what length you went with.
 
#19
Probably cost less than $20 to make the predator and they sell it to me @$119 plus $40 for a warranty. The way y'all bitch, you sound like all the old people on corvette forum when you ask how much timing to pull of nitrous.

"Why would you ruin an iconic American sports car with nitrous and sticky tires" -old people
 
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