Welcome:thumbsup:
On a Predator you have two cable housing clamps and two swivel cable stays(a real bonus on these engines). You can run the cable through the rear which on a DB is the correct way. Just loosen the housing clamp with a #2 phillips screwdriver then hold the corresponding cable stay with some needle nose pliers and loosen the #1 phillips screw. Now take the DB cable and slip it through the clamp on the side closest to you or the side opposite the little notch and dog leg. Thread the cable through the stay then make sure the steel cable termination is in the clamp and tighten, tight enough n=but not so tight as to crush it. Then make sure your twist grip is in the return position and return to the cable stay, if the cable looks straight and fully extended grab the nut with the pliers and tighten that screw. Then you will need to have a return spring, I had a header so I had a place to hook one end to the other cable stay and then to the header with a hose clamp. I tied it to the tag end of the clamp, you could loosen one all the way and wrap the pipe of your muffler then use the tag end for an anchor point.
The kill switch wiring is easy, two wires. Take the black wire to ground with a ground wire connector like the one on the engine kill switch at auto zone. And the other to the wire that exits the Predator kill switch and dives into the harness, I strip the minibike's switch wire and unplug the Predator kill switch wire then place the exposed copper in the female side and plug the wire back in. Wrap it with some tape and you're done.
I have no videos or links but I think I laid it out pretty good, I may just expect someone to follow my instructions as given without considering everyone does not do this all the time so if I come off like an ass it's because I kinda am one. There are in fact links and videos but compare them to my instructions, pay no mind to the idiots that will hook the throttle up elsewhere thinking they are mechanical genious's. They are just idiots.
I hope my advice gets you going and stopping both, good luck.:thumbsup:
On a Predator you have two cable housing clamps and two swivel cable stays(a real bonus on these engines). You can run the cable through the rear which on a DB is the correct way. Just loosen the housing clamp with a #2 phillips screwdriver then hold the corresponding cable stay with some needle nose pliers and loosen the #1 phillips screw. Now take the DB cable and slip it through the clamp on the side closest to you or the side opposite the little notch and dog leg. Thread the cable through the stay then make sure the steel cable termination is in the clamp and tighten, tight enough n=but not so tight as to crush it. Then make sure your twist grip is in the return position and return to the cable stay, if the cable looks straight and fully extended grab the nut with the pliers and tighten that screw. Then you will need to have a return spring, I had a header so I had a place to hook one end to the other cable stay and then to the header with a hose clamp. I tied it to the tag end of the clamp, you could loosen one all the way and wrap the pipe of your muffler then use the tag end for an anchor point.
The kill switch wiring is easy, two wires. Take the black wire to ground with a ground wire connector like the one on the engine kill switch at auto zone. And the other to the wire that exits the Predator kill switch and dives into the harness, I strip the minibike's switch wire and unplug the Predator kill switch wire then place the exposed copper in the female side and plug the wire back in. Wrap it with some tape and you're done.
I have no videos or links but I think I laid it out pretty good, I may just expect someone to follow my instructions as given without considering everyone does not do this all the time so if I come off like an ass it's because I kinda am one. There are in fact links and videos but compare them to my instructions, pay no mind to the idiots that will hook the throttle up elsewhere thinking they are mechanical genious's. They are just idiots.
I hope my advice gets you going and stopping both, good luck.:thumbsup:
Yes the nut needs to be loosened so the throttle moves freely. The factory spring wasn't strong enough so off to ace is the place for an assortment of springs. Another issue is the big box exhaust. It sticks out very far and you will get burned. I put an aftermarket pipe, wrapped it with header tape and still burned my leg today
If you take the nut off and then pull the whole lever assembly, you will see a wavy spring type washer. Take that out, squirt a bit of oil on the shaft and put it back together. The return spring will now work. Leaving that wavy washer and buying a stiffer spring will make your throttle harder to use. More like an on and off switch. Bike will be harder to ride.
