Help with 5hp Briggs side cover bearing removal

[Strigoi]

I've got a 5hp Briggs that I just started tearing down for a mild build. This is my first time building a flathead, so I kind of have no idea what I'm doing. Plans are billet parts, a mild cam and carb. Upon tear down, I found out that the engine already had a copper head gasket, dual valve springs and a full governor removal done. The head looks to be stock and I'm not sure about the cam. It looks like it has about .212 lift, but I haven't been able to find any stock specs for Briggs cams.

On to my question...

The side cover bearing is stuck on the crank. I'm not sure what kind of puller I should be using on it. I have one of the 3 jaw ones shown in the attached pic. I cranked on it a bit (not very hard at all), but it didn't budge. Before I go full hog on this thing, I'm wondering if I'd be better off using a bearing separator/puller like the one in the link below.

https://www.amazon.com/8MILELAKE-Separator-Puller-Splitters-Bearings/dp/B01MRZLZ6J

This whole setup is going to be going in a custom frame I have that's inspired by the GPS Rascal build. I have no idea why I'm so intimidated by this engine. I know they're less complicated than the OHV engines, which I'm 100% comfortable with building up from a bare case.

 

[creia]

That is a (tight) press fit from the factory. Why do you need to remove it?
Michael

 

[Strigoi]

It's supposed to stay on like that then? I've only built clone/Predator engines and they haven't had a bearing that stays on the crank like that.

How do you line up the cam? I noticed there was a dot on the counterweight. Do you use that?

Like I said, I'm not familiar with these engines at all. I haven't seen that bearing on the crank in any of the videos I've watched on these Briggs engines. I figured it had just kind of seized itself onto the crank.

 

[creia]

Yes, it is supposed to stay on. Absolutely no need to remove it unless the bearing was shot (VERY rare) and you had to replace it. Yes, you use the dot on the counterweight (good eye on your part!) to line up the mark on the cam as you cannot see the dot on the gear which is covered by the bearing. If you do not own one already, I would highly recommend purchasing the "Briggs L-Head Service Manual" which has lots of good information and will make your build go MUCH easier. You can get them on eBay REAL cheap, especially for a used one.
Michael

 

[Strigoi]

Thanks. I'll check out that book.

edit: Grabbed one of those books for $15 shipped off Ebay.

 

[creia]

Thanks. I'll check out that book.

edit: Grabbed one of those books for $15 shipped off Ebay.

Good deal- You will be glad you got it. In the crankshafts/cams chapter it has a whole section about the bearing removal and replacement procedure including the dot reference on the counterweight for timing that you mentioned you saw . My son and I have been restoring/rebuilding Briggs flatheads for over 15 years.and we still refer to this manual all the time.
Michael

 

[Strigoi]

Good deal- You will be glad you got it. In the crankshafts/cams chapter it has a whole section about the bearing removal and replacement procedure including the dot reference on the counterweight for timing that you mentioned you saw . My son and I have been restoring/rebuilding Briggs flatheads for over 15 years.and we still refer to this manual all the time.
Michael

I've got another bike with a Briggs in it too so I'm sure it will be helpful.

 

[Strigoi]

Finally got off my ass today and put most of the engine together. Turning it by hand it's got good compression, so I'm hoping it runs. Need to get the coil on and piece together a carb for it. I have no idea what I'm doing for a gas tank either. Last pic is the frame it's going in. That seat isn't staying and I'm not 100% sure if I'm keeping it that color. A bit of progress at least.

 

[Minimichael]

That engine's sure looking great. The bike too. Love those handlebar risers.

 

[RobertC]

Glad to hear you're making progress.

That's a cool looking frame, what is it ?

 

[Thepaetsguy]

It's supposed to stay on like that then? I've only built clone/Predator engines and they haven't had a bearing that stays on the crank like that.

How do you line up the cam? I noticed there was a dot on the counterweight. Do you use that?

Like I said, I'm not familiar with these engines at all. I haven't seen that bearing on the crank in any of the videos I've watched on these Briggs engines. I figured it had just kind of seized itself onto the crank.

Someone on the Briggs forum just tore there hole build back down after it was complete because they timed it wrong. You can line up the dots when the crank is above AND below the output shaft. it has to be timed when they line up BELOW. not sure if your dealing with the same setup. But figured I would add that just in case.

 

[Strigoi]

Someone on the Briggs forum just tore there hole build back down after it was complete because they timed it wrong. You can line up the dots when the crank is above AND below the output shaft. it has to be timed when they line up BELOW. not sure if your dealing with the same setup. But figured I would add that just in case.

I'll keep that in mind if I can't get it to start or run right. I don't mind having to tear it down again. I like working on them more than riding them.

 

[Strigoi]

Glad to hear you're making progress.

That's a cool looking frame, what is it ?

It's a custom frame a friend of mine built for me. It was his rendition of the Rascal from GPS since we both thought that kit was overpriced.

 

[creia]

Someone on the Briggs forum just tore there hole build back down after it was complete because they timed it wrong. You can line up the dots when the crank is above AND below the output shaft. it has to be timed when they line up BELOW. not sure if your dealing with the same setup. But figured I would add that just in case.

Very good point! The Briggs repair manual that I recommended above shows the CORRECT way ("below") that you described. That manual should be a "must-have" for anyone working on these old Briggs flatheads.
Michael

 

[Thepaetsguy]

I'll keep that in mind if I can't get it to start or run right. I don't mind having to tear it down again. I like working on them more than riding them.

umm the timing would be so off i don’t think your gonna get it running at all. (Why he pulled his whole build back down)

 

[Strigoi]

umm the timing would be so off i don’t think your gonna get it running at all. (Why he pulled his whole build back down)

Same difference. If it doesn't run I'll just pull the engine apart and redo it. No big deal.

 

[Strigoi]

It runs! Sort of. It'll idle fine with the choke on at least and rev up some with the throttle. The carb was one I had laying around and I've done zero tuning on it. I'm just happy that it looks like I got the cam timing set correctly and don't have to pull the engine apart again.

I stayed with the stock cam, so I may look into getting a slightly smaller carb for it. I think the 22mm might be a little much. I'll just have to see though.

 

[Thepaetsguy]

Same difference. If it doesn't run I'll just pull the engine apart and redo it. No big deal.

probably not what you want to hear but get a stock tank carburetor and read the guide about them posted on here. I have 3 vm22’s and one vm24 that never worked on the smaller engines. I tried my hand at modifying the stock gen 2 pulsa-jet with and slapped it on a 5hp the results were pretty darn amazing. Edit: I should point out that I never touched the adjustment screw after modifying that tank carburetor. It started second pull and I just have been riding it. I’m sure it could be leaned out a bit to pull even harder.

 

[Strigoi]

It runs! Sort of. It'll idle fine with the choke on at least and rev up some with the throttle. The carb was one I had laying around and I've done zero tuning on it. I'm just happy that it looks like I got the cam timing set correctly and don't have to pull the engine apart again.

I stayed with the stock cam, so I may look into getting a slightly smaller carb for it. I think the 22mm might be a little much. I'll just have to see though.

Cam is off by a tooth. Thought it might be a carb issue but it wasn't. I don't feel like tearing that engine apart right now so current plans are to just slap a stock 212 in the frame. I want something I can ride around the neighborhood without annoying my neighbors. My other bikes are pretty loud since they've got built engines with open headers.

Getting this engine going is going to be a when I get around to it project now.

 

[Thepaetsguy]

Cam is off by a tooth. Thought it might be a carb issue but it wasn't. I don't feel like tearing that engine apart right now so current plans are to just slap a stock 212 in the frame. I want something I can ride around the neighborhood without annoying my neighbors. My other bikes are pretty loud since they've got built engines with open headers.

Getting this engine going is going to be a when I get around to it project now.

get rid of the pz-vm whatever setup and do the normal mods to a stock tank carburetor. (if you have one).. Then pop the sidecover back off and line up the dots below and it will run like a top.