How can i get drum brake to grip drum better?

drenchedgremlin

drenchedgremlin

Member
#1
#1
I have an azusa drum brake system on my tote goat. I have been having an issue getting it to grip properly. Have tried adjusting the arm, & even when i tighten the cable all the way, it still won't stop the bike very well. I noticed the drum itself is pretty smooth & was wondering if i should roughen it up with a grinder or dremel? I want to know if this will help before i try it
 
manchester1

manchester1

#2
#2
Most of those Azusa drums are not true. I personally gave up on one myself. Unfortunately that is all we have and need to make the best if it. Best thing to do is get some body to turn it down for you. (make it round). A machine shop can probably hook you up.
 
creia

creia

#4
#4
Azusa drum brakes are CRAP. Do a Google Custom Search at the top of this page using the words "Azusa Brakes" and you will get a good education from previous threads. Yes, they CAN be (slightly) improved with some work, but they are still only marginal at best. Good for maybe slowing you down, not stopping you.
Michael
 
drenchedgremlin

drenchedgremlin

Member
#5
#5
creia said:
Azusa drum brakes are CRAP. Do a Google Custom Search at the top of this page using the words "Azusa Brakes" and you will get a good education from previous threads. Yes, they CAN be (slightly) improved with some work, but they are still only marginal at best. Good for maybe slowing you down, not stopping you.
Michael
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I have been trying to figure out a brake for this bike for a while now. I want a brake that will actually stop the bike, otherwise I don't feel safe riding it. I tried a band brake but probably bought the wrong size about .5" too big and was trying to bend it to get enough surface area. I might try another band brake if anyone has had good luck with them. If there isn't many better options, I may fab up a scrub brake.
 
Davis

Davis

Well-Known Member
#6
#6
Post pics the gote bands work very well between the clutch and brake on a gote you should stop super good.
 
creia

creia

#7
#7
drenchedgremlin said:
I have been trying to figure out a brake for this bike for a while now. I want a brake that will actually stop the bike, otherwise I don't feel safe riding it. I tried a band brake but probably bought the wrong size about .5" too big and was trying to bend it to get enough surface area. I might try another band brake if anyone has had good luck with them. If there isn't many better options, I may fab up a scrub brake.
Click to expand...
Band brakes work very well if they are sized properly, the band matches the hub and they are adjusted properly. Our Super Bronc VT-8 has a jackshaft band brake and EASILY locks up the rear tire if you are not careful. Stop screwing around with the mis-matched band brake parts you have trying to make it work. There is no "bending" them to make it work!
Michael
 
drenchedgremlin

drenchedgremlin

Member
#8
#8
creia said:
Band brakes work very well if they are sized properly, the band matches the hub and they are adjusted properly. Our Super Bronc VT-8 has a jackshaft band brake and EASILY locks up the rear tire if you are not careful. Stop screwing around with the mis-matched band brake parts you have trying to make it work. There is no "bending" them to make it work!
Michael
Click to expand...
to be clear, i am talking about the clutch band brakes. I did not know there are other types. Could you link me to one of the "hub" band brakes you are talking about? Also, I asked a question about band brake sizing a while ago and got no answer. So, if i had, say a 4" clutch, then what size of band brake would work with it? Im not sure how the measurements work.
 
creia

creia

#9
#9
Clutch band brakes work extremely well (my son has one on his Bonanza 1300) IF the band size matches the clutch size and they are set up and adjusted properly. That is a simpler/easier set up than a jackshaft band brake- I would recommend that you go with that. For your "everyday" standard Max Torque minibike clutch you will want a 4" brake band. As far as seeing examples of either clutch of jackshaft band brakes set ups do a Google Custom Search at the top of this page as I mentioned before. Come on man, put in a little effort...
Michael
 
David wulf

David wulf

#10
#10
The real problem with the brakes are the cable that operates them , it stretches so you not putting the force needed to stop with . I have an MX with the bendix brake good brake but sucks with a cable . Fix , put a foot pedal on it with a rod and hemi joints and now you have stopping power .
 
drenchedgremlin

drenchedgremlin

Member
#12
#12
David wulf said:
The real problem with the brakes are the cable that operates them , it stretches so you not putting the force needed to stop with . I have an MX with the bendix brake good brake but sucks with a cable . Fix , put a foot pedal on it with a rod and hemi joints and now you have stopping power .
Click to expand...
Good to know. Is there any way you can post a picture of what the fix you are talking about, would look like, so that I know i am understanding correctly
 
noseoil

noseoil

Active Member
#14
#14
Just think of it like a clock. If the fixed end or "anchor" point might be at 6 o'clock (this is just an example) & the motor spins counter-clockwise, or toward the front if the clutch is on the left side of the motor facing forward. The band then wraps around to follow the direction of the clutch rotation (counter-clockwise from 6 o'clock to 3 o'clock to midnight to 9 o'clock), so the moving end with the cable can squeeze the drum to clamp down on the rotation at 9 o'clock & it will tighten on the drum to slow it down.

Hope this makes sense to you.
 
danford1

danford1

#16
#16
If you zoom in on this you can see a band brake on the rear axle. The fixed portion is roughly 2 o'clock. It is just slid on a rod that is welded to the rear swing arm. The other end of the band has the end of the cable mounted in it. It tightens in the same direction as the tire rotation. It works well and will lock up the rear tire.
Danford1
 
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Doc1976

Doc1976

Active Member
#17
#17
David wulf said:
The real problem with the brakes are the cable that operates them , it stretches so you not putting the force needed to stop with . I have an MX with the bendix brake good brake but sucks with a cable . Fix , put a foot pedal on it with a rod and hemi joints and now you have stopping power .
Click to expand...
Now this is exactly what I was wondering about. the cable and lever not being stout enough to achieve the needed stopping power. I remember as a kid in the 80's our dirt bikes had drum front and rear, the rear always worked great with no problem locking up. the front however would not lock up no matter how hard you pulled the lever. the difference being cable actuated vs rod actuated. I am currently fighting with brake options on a build. this might help me solve it.
 
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