how do you remove gas tank sealant

KB2ROCKET

Active Member
#1
At some point someone coated the inside of my rupp sprint gas tank with this cream colored sealant .im not sure if it started peeling off on its own or if it reacted with the methanol I put in there but it needs to be removed. Any suggestions?
I am currently rejecting any suggestions involving flame or explosions:wink:
 
#2
Sounds like a bad KREEM job lol
I have used kreem tank sealant on a few bikes and unless you get the tank super clean with the acid etching it will peel like a sob
We have removed it with a lot of gravel shaking and hot water or as the company states it can be disolved with MEK methyl ethyl keytone
I have used laquer thinner to clean up after useing it and it seems to work too
Good luck
 
#4
I sealed that tank several years ago. I followed the directions to a tee. Coating must have reacted with the methanol as it think it is only set up for gas. I see that you are going to put 2 engines on the frame. Good to know frame is being put to good use.
 
#5
POR 15 is a better choice for a tank sealant kit. I have done it four times with beautiful results but the instructions must be followed to the letter.

Rick

Two CT90 and two ST90 bikes
 
#8
I've had to re-seal quite a few motorcycle gas tanks and the best combo for me has been to wash the inside with laquer thinner. My amounts are going to be off as i'm thinking Sportster King type tanks, but, pour a pint or so of laquer thinner or acetone in the tank, seal, and rotate the tank around to coat all areas.

Rinse it out real well.

Now pour in paint stripper. Something with Dichloromethane (Methylene Chloride). I've used Aerothene solvent with decent results. You'll want to rinse it out well once you're done.

When you seal, i would recommend using POR 15. I've tried just about every kind of sealant i could get my hands on, and the POR 15 has been the best. Just follow the directions.

And...

WEAR RUBBER GLOVES. These things will eat the skin on your hands. The Base Wash and Acid Etch is some nasty shit. I wear a welding apron when i'm sealing tanks. The first time i sealed i got the base wash sloshed on my leg and didnt think anything of it. Soaked through my pants and after about an hour of working got super itchy. Stuff was eating the flesh on my thigh.
 
#9
And for Por 15, you must get every drop of etch and rinse water out. The only way to do this is to steal your wife's hair dryer for a few hours and use the forced hot air to dry it. Turn the tank often to get the water out of every seam and bracket.

Then pour the excess urethane out of the tank before it cures. If even a little of it pools at the bottom, you must rotate the tank during the cure process to leave as thin of a layer of urethane as possible. Thick layers have a tendency to delaminate.

Rick

Two CT90 and two ST90 bikes
 
#10
+1 on the hair drier.

Open up the tank bungs and shove the nose end in and let it run, turning the tank. It'll get hot to the touch, but it's the best way.

I'd also mention that after you do the etch you should move relatively quickly on the actual sealant. After etching, the metal starts to oxidize REALLY quickly. You want to get at it before it does.
 
#11
Definitely go quickly on this process or it'll rust soon as you say. I would budget about 4 hours of diligent effort to get it all done and then four days for the urethane to cure before putting fuel back in the tank.

Rick

Two CT90 and two ST90 bikes
 

KB2ROCKET

Active Member
#12
I sealed that tank several years ago. I followed the directions to a tee. Coating must have reacted with the methanol as it think it is only set up for gas. I see that you are going to put 2 engines on the frame. Good to know frame is being put to good use.
Only one engine a h60 modifyed and yes I agree it must have reacted with the methanol
 
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