How to take out broken Crank Shaft Nut

#8
I would angle the drill a bit in an effort to center it. You can look-up the diagram of your engine pto shaft and know the depth of the hole and resulting thread depth. Then mark your drill with sharpie or tape for depth. We always use Tap Magic cutting fluid when cutting any metal. I wouldn’t exceed the letter I drill diameter, you will damage the threads and be forced to drill and tap for 3/8-24.
 

SAS289

Well-Known Member
#9
Are you using a left hand drill bit?

You are at the point of not getting it out and have to make a change. Do you know if you went all the way through the bolt with the drill bit? I would go to a larger bit that just misses the threaded crankshaft. Then try an easy out tool. If that doesn't work I would remove the crankshaft and put heat on it.

Did someone use the wrong loctite, or jam a wrong sized bolt into it? A bolt like that broke off shouldn't be seized in there.
 

Lizardking

Well-Known Member
#12
When the bolt is recessed like his is, it would be quite difficult to weld the nut to the bolt without welding both to the crankshaft.
I believe it can still work if he welds a bolt instead of a nut. It's worth a try. I had one like his and was able to take it off after a second try with a bolt and a washer over the hole.
 
#13
Still stuck I do not want to buy a new engine for it. Hopefully, I didn't drill too much. Will post pictures.
No need to buy a new engine. Buy a used crank and swap it in.

I don't get why everyone is so hung up on getting the bolt out. A crank swap isn't that big of a deal. I'd rather spend an hour or two swapping cranks than who knows how long getting the remnants of that bolt out.
 
#14
thank you all. Will try the bigger bit. I had put blue locktite when I put the nut on the crank.

For replacing crankshaft, I am a little reluctant because I am not that mechanically skilled for welding and have tools even. I did try watching the video I have to open the entire engine much to remove the crankshaft. If anyone has a well-detailed instruction lmk. If I do not close it properly it is also a risk. Thinking about what to do.
 

toomanytoys

Well-Known Member
#15
I still wonder why this broke. If the driver was seated properly and the correct bolt used...i don't see how the darn thing could break.

Unless it was way over tightened or the wrong bolt was used. My TAV kit came with a metric bolt instead of a 5/16-NF bolt that was required
 
#16
left hand bits work great . Iv never had a real one i just re sharpen regular bits the other way and they get me by. I dont have good luck with ez outs they usually break off but sometimes work. Heat it up with a propane torch first to melt the locktite. not too much you dont want to melt the seal. start by drilling all the way through with a 1/8" bit for a pilot hole then you can get it centered good
 
#19
Other possibilitie: Wrong size and/or wrong thread pitch bolt used (don't use a bolt that you can't run in with your fingers), such as a metric bolt used when an SAE bolt is needed, or vice versa, bolt cross-threaded. I've seen YT videos of knuckleheads wondering why it was difficult attaching a torque converter to a Predator, using the metric bolts that came with the TC, but cranked 'em in there anyway. Bolt too long and bottomed out but bolt cranked on more. Who knows...
 
#20
Other possibilitie: Wrong size and/or wrong thread pitch bolt used (don't use a bolt that you can't run in with your fingers), such as a metric bolt used when an SAE bolt is needed, or vice versa, bolt cross-threaded. I've seen YT videos of knuckleheads wondering why it was difficult attaching a torque converter to a Predator, using the metric bolts that came with the TC, but cranked 'em in there anyway. Bolt too long and bottomed out but bolt cranked on more. Who knows...
Everything you said there means the person is just lacking common sense.
 
Top