It will have a straight inlet, only difference if yours has an angled one.
http://www.amazon.com/Rotary-632230-Carburetor-for-Tecumseh/dp/B004NWC48C
http://www.amazon.com/Rotary-632230-Carburetor-for-Tecumseh/dp/B004NWC48C
I bought a replica for 35 shipped from amazon. I'll look it up for you and let you know. It works great on hs40.
Btw I love your s/n. My dad and uncle called me Frankster when I was a kid. My uncle still calls me frankster. lol
.... well according to my order history. This is the part I ordered. I got it for 35.98 shipped. I can't believe the price went up so much!!!!!!!!
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0074BNJ6A/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00
Btw I love your s/n. My dad and uncle called me Frankster when I was a kid. My uncle still calls me frankster. lol
.... well according to my order history. This is the part I ordered. I got it for 35.98 shipped. I can't believe the price went up so much!!!!!!!!
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0074BNJ6A/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00
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Tech HS40 engine
That's funny, small world.
Frankly speaking, thanks for the link!
It looks like Techumseh carbs are running around 85-$100 bucks. I called OldMiniBikes today and they have one for about $87 I think he said. Anyway, I need to get my Serial number off the engine and call them back tomorrow. I really don't want to use an aftermarket carb.
It looks like the carb you got from amazon is speced out for an H35, however if it runs good and that's good to know.
I'm going to order something tomorrow:smile:
That's funny, small world.
Frankly speaking, thanks for the link!
It looks like Techumseh carbs are running around 85-$100 bucks. I called OldMiniBikes today and they have one for about $87 I think he said. Anyway, I need to get my Serial number off the engine and call them back tomorrow. I really don't want to use an aftermarket carb.
It looks like the carb you got from amazon is speced out for an H35, however if it runs good and that's good to know.
I'm going to order something tomorrow:smile:
Oregon is a brand name ...they have chain saw chain and other goodies....hands down its gonna be better than a 40 year old carb....or a hack rebuild
http://www.oregonchain.com/oep/
http://www.oregonchain.com/oep/
Did you do any testing? I just replaced a Tec 3.5 float-type carb with an Oregon carb off of ebay. (Because I lost the un-adjustable jet)
Hooked the carb up, and not having the 45 degree fuel inlet was a bit of a challenge- but I got the fuel hose to bend enough.
The float was way out of adjustment, causing flooding which was not a real surprize.
The gasket on the float bowl while seated still leaked, and the smaller gasket on the bowl metering jet leaked. I used the Tec carb old gasket and bowl, adjusted the floats and made a gasket for the metering jet on the bowl and it stopped leaking fuel.
While this may sound like it was a POS, I was able to fine tune the carb way better than the Tec carb, for way more power, top end, and a richer tune. (Less heat on the pipe) I also did away with the crankcase venting line, since the Oregon isn't set up for it. (hose vents to atmosphere, sorry for my carbon footprint)
So, Oregon carb was a royal pain in the rear, but the tune was worth it, once I got past the craptastic bits.
Hooked the carb up, and not having the 45 degree fuel inlet was a bit of a challenge- but I got the fuel hose to bend enough.
The float was way out of adjustment, causing flooding which was not a real surprize.
The gasket on the float bowl while seated still leaked, and the smaller gasket on the bowl metering jet leaked. I used the Tec carb old gasket and bowl, adjusted the floats and made a gasket for the metering jet on the bowl and it stopped leaking fuel.
While this may sound like it was a POS, I was able to fine tune the carb way better than the Tec carb, for way more power, top end, and a richer tune. (Less heat on the pipe) I also did away with the crankcase venting line, since the Oregon isn't set up for it. (hose vents to atmosphere, sorry for my carbon footprint)
So, Oregon carb was a royal pain in the rear, but the tune was worth it, once I got past the craptastic bits.
The Oregon carbs run good.. They are the same idea as the originals, just look different..
The problem with the Oregon carbs, is not only price.. BUT they a lot of the time are not even complete.. Theres no throttle plate and shit.. They expect you to build YOUR OWN carb from their carb, PLUS your old one.. :glare:
SO if you do not already have a carb, the right carb, and your parts aren't broken... You have an 80 dollar brand new pile of useless.. :mellow:
When buying carbs the biggest thing to look for is the carb size, then next thing is how all of the parts work, choke arms will work on one motor, but hit the exaust on another... One throttle plate works right for an H35 or HS motor.. but put it on an H50 and it won't hook to your throttle parts.. :mellow:
Your best bet is buy one thats been custom built to fit the engine your need, and tested and tuned by someone who knows what they are doing.. :thumbsup:
http://www.oldminibikes.com/forum/m...-hs40-h35-h50-fully-adjustable-carb-35-a.html
Also, someone had mentioned the fuel inlet and said you want a strait in, which is wrong, all HS engines were 90 degree elbows... On a motor with attached fuel tank, the line runs behind the blower housing, on a motor with no tank, it runs upwards towards the tank on the bike..
The problem with the Oregon carbs, is not only price.. BUT they a lot of the time are not even complete.. Theres no throttle plate and shit.. They expect you to build YOUR OWN carb from their carb, PLUS your old one.. :glare:
SO if you do not already have a carb, the right carb, and your parts aren't broken... You have an 80 dollar brand new pile of useless.. :mellow:
When buying carbs the biggest thing to look for is the carb size, then next thing is how all of the parts work, choke arms will work on one motor, but hit the exaust on another... One throttle plate works right for an H35 or HS motor.. but put it on an H50 and it won't hook to your throttle parts.. :mellow:
Your best bet is buy one thats been custom built to fit the engine your need, and tested and tuned by someone who knows what they are doing.. :thumbsup:
http://www.oldminibikes.com/forum/m...-hs40-h35-h50-fully-adjustable-carb-35-a.html
Also, someone had mentioned the fuel inlet and said you want a strait in, which is wrong, all HS engines were 90 degree elbows... On a motor with attached fuel tank, the line runs behind the blower housing, on a motor with no tank, it runs upwards towards the tank on the bike..
The carb works great, my point was that when I received it, it was leaking, and the float not even close. (which is why I quickly found the bowl leak)
The other issue was with the fuel barb being straight; as Restore comments, it needs to be 90. I did force the fuel line around and got it to clamp, but it looks funkadelic, and I watch it closely.
But yeah, once adjusted, the engine (H35) runs way better than it ever did, idles for as long as I want it to, and accellerates very smoothly. I also paid less than 40 bucks for it.
I just rebuilt the carb on my HS40 for another project. If it gives me any trouble, I won't hesitate to get an Oregon for it.
The other issue was with the fuel barb being straight; as Restore comments, it needs to be 90. I did force the fuel line around and got it to clamp, but it looks funkadelic, and I watch it closely.
But yeah, once adjusted, the engine (H35) runs way better than it ever did, idles for as long as I want it to, and accellerates very smoothly. I also paid less than 40 bucks for it.
I just rebuilt the carb on my HS40 for another project. If it gives me any trouble, I won't hesitate to get an Oregon for it.
I have bought four Oregon's and I can't see the difference except the inlet is straight. They needed new fuel lines anyway and inline filters, so I just looped the gas line up a bit with a twist and it works great. I pulled the bowls off of the first two to check the float and they were set right, but one of them leaked fuel at first until I raised the back tire off the ground and bounced it, I guess the brass fuel valve above the float was stuck at first.