HS40 fuel line questions

Scottessey

Active Member
#1
Hey Fellas, I pulled out an unfinished project this weekend to see if I could get it working. I'd like to put this in my Fox Trailbug. This was a slanted intake engine that I've hoped to convert over to a straight set up. I'm not sure that I have it configured right. I have a few questions...

1. Why is there gas dripping out of the open end of the carb where the air filter would be?

2. How do I run this fuel line inside the shroud? Will it melt? Pics?

 
#2
1) Check the float in the carb. It is either mal-adjusted or if it's a brass one....possibly has a pin hole in it. I would bet on the later being the case.

2) I wouldn't risk it. Get yourself some correct Tecumseh .44 OD X 1/4" ID fuel line.

Should be able to find some pics on here,of the path the fuel line runs. The shroud will need to come off to do so.
 

Scottessey

Active Member
#3
Thanks Derek! I'll take a closer look at the float. It is a metal one. Where is the best place to look for a float if it's bad? Where do you get your fuel line? It looks like ebay has it.
 

buckeye

Well-Known Member
#6
Yes and there is a little round rubber gasket in the bottom of the hole that needle goes into. Make sure to get that puppy in right too.
 

WrenchDad

Active Member
#7
This is a 4HP big block from a snowblower and the holes in the shroud were there when I got it (original or not I dont know) but the fuel line passed thru there and it worked just fine.
I agree with Derekbmn get Techumseh fuel rated hose if you can.
 
#8
The shroud is notched where your line goes through.. Some, or a lot are a hole on the tank side, then just nothin on the carb side or maybe a small notch..

It runs in through that notch/hole runs across the block just below the cooling fins, like in between the two lowest ones or the bottom and the block, then out behind the back of the shroud, to the carb...

Carb should be a 90 degree elbow, that points like directly towards the gas tank side of the motor, at a slight downward angle, like 5 or 10 degrees tweaked downward..
 

Scottessey

Active Member
#9
The shroud is notched where your line goes through.. Some, or a lot are a hole on the tank side, then just nothin on the carb side or maybe a small notch..

It runs in through that notch/hole runs across the block just below the cooling fins, like in between the two lowest ones or the bottom and the block, then out behind the back of the shroud, to the carb...

Carb should be a 90 degree elbow, that points like directly towards the gas tank side of the motor, at a slight downward angle, like 5 or 10 degrees tweaked downward..
Great! Thanks Fellas. I found a new local mower shop and picked up a new float bowl and fuel line. I'll start drilling and filing the shroud tonight, run the fuel line, and see if she'll fire up. :thumbsup:
 

markus

Well-Known Member
#10
Great! Thanks Fellas. I found a new local mower shop and picked up a new float bowl and fuel line. I'll start drilling and filing the shroud tonight, run the fuel line, and see if she'll fire up. :thumbsup:

DON'T DRILL THAT SHROUD!!!! there is no need and it woudl be the incorrect way to do it!!!! I'll post some pics in a few.....Drop the drill and step away from the Tec!!
 

markus

Well-Known Member
#12
OK so I have no built HS40's of your motors vintage with tanks right now so these pics are gonna kinda suck, Maybe someone on here is in the middle of building a motor for a cat or something and can snap some pics of a "complete" motor with the shroud off.

First off there is a pre drilled hole on the little wrap around tin reguardless if it came with a tank or was remote:



thats where the fuel line goes through



the line should run against the block right under the bottom fin.



IMPORTANT, you must make sure that there is sufficent spacing between flywheel and fuel line and coil wire when your routing the lines, its best to route the fuel line with the shroud off and play around. Also, I know for sure on the HS35's there is usually a little thin L bracket that clips onto the rear part of the bottom fin which insures the fuel line does not come into contact with the wheel. Of course I didn't have any offhand to show and I am not positive that the hs40's had them, at least mine never did, but then again mine were mostly remote tank motors.

If you look at the red motor on the right in the pic above you can see that when they updated the block (square shroud motors usually) they put an actual threaded boss into the block and used bolt on barrier.

so when you are buttoning it up really verify its not going to move and come in contact with the wheel, worst case maybe drill a hole on the top corner of the breather cover and safety wire it or something to that effect, I had one do that when I was being lazy and snaked it through with the shroud on....that was not fun :censure:
 
#13
Howdy , My name is Tommy been buildin Motors for over 30 years. The guy that told you about the float and the fuel line is right but there are a few more things you need to know . Hold the float close to your ear and shake it you may hear fluid inside this means it is leaking , replace it # 632019. Also buy a carb rebuild kit # 631029 this will have most everything you need to build a carb right. Replacing the needle and seat is also a must (in the kit) remove the carb from the engine , remove the bowl , remove the hinge pin where the float swings upward and down , watch how the needle is attached and remove it too . down in that small hole where the needle sits is the seat . It's a tiny little rubber "o" ring. You can't see it but it's in there . Go back where the fuel line connects to the carb and put compressed air through it , you'll hear it pop , blow that old seat out . Maybe cup your hand over it and try to catch it so you can see what it looks . If it gets away , no worries # 631021 is the part # for the needle and seat by itself . Sometimes they use a different color rubber , black , white red , green. The new seat has to be inserted back down in that hole , they make a special tool for that but you can use a drift that's flat on the end (not a punch) This is kinda tricky but you can do this all sitting at the table. Look close at the rubber seat you will see a ridge around one side , this is the side that goes up in the carb. So go find a drift just a pinch smaller Dia. than the seat , put some spit on it put it on the end of the drift and push it up in there , make sure it doesen't get hung side ways. Then make sure it's firm to the bottom. That is the hardest part if you made it this far , the rest is easy. Put the clip on the end of the needle , hang it on the tab of the float set it down in the hole , put the hinge pin back in. The float should sit about level while holding the carb upside down. If not , bend the tab easy does it a little goes a long way. If the throttle shaft has any side to side play in it , replace it # 631615 , the engine will suck air past the worn shaft and you will never get the carb to adjust. Some people just don't have the patience to do this kind of work so if you have any questions , call me 865-659-1893 or new carb # 631921 , don't buy after market. Tommy
 
#14
Howdy that clip # is 29443 they are out there , getting hard to find . I just cleaned out Parts Tree .com .. Watch out though there's a few people selling clips that bent the wrong way. I bought them by mistake , made them work using a dremel but what a Pain in the ass. Tommy
 
#15
Thanks a lot, Markus! Those pics were great. I didn't recognize the hole in mine to be for the fuel line because it had some other wires hanging out of it. Are the ones on mine for a kill switch?

I'll definitely take the cover off and make sure the fuel line is secure before I start pullin' the rope. That's good advice! Minibiking is way more fun when you're not on fire. :thumbsup:






Thanks Tommy, for the pointers! I swapped out the float, needle seat, needle, and adjustment screws and O-rings already. Hopefully, by the weekend I'll have some time to hit the last details and rev it up. :thumbsup:
 
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markus

Well-Known Member
#16
Thanks a lot, Markus! Those pics were great. I didn't recognize the hole in mine to be for the fuel line because it had some other wires hanging out of it. Are the ones on mine for a kill switch?

I'll definitely take the cover off and make sure the fuel line is secure before I start pullin' the rope. That's good advice! Minibiking is way more fun when you're not on fire. :thumbsup:






Thanks Tommy, for the pointers! I swapped out the float, needle seat, needle, and adjustment screws and O-rings already. Hopefully, by the weekend I'll have some time to hit the last details and rev it up. :thumbsup:
Kinda looks like maybe the cloth insulated is the original kill wire that is supposed to be routed to the points and just wrapped around and through that hole too keep it out of the way of the flywheel. the other looks like a newer installed wire. Been some backyard repairs done, the coil wire should exit through the U shaped hole and wrap around and up to the plug.
 
#17
Also, I know for sure on the HS35's there is usually a little thin L bracket that clips onto the rear part of the bottom fin which insures the fuel line does not come into contact with the wheel. Of course I didn't have any offhand to show and I am not positive that the hs40's had them, at least mine never did, but then again mine were mostly remote tank motors.
You're correct Marcus. The last two HS40's I've rebuilt had that L clip. I run the line beneath it, to keep it out of the flywheel fan. On some other engines, I've found them missing.
 
#18
The clips come out some times with the line.. people yank the hose and the clips are gone... You should be able to find them used though, there's 1,000's of old tecs laying around..
 
#19
Thanks Fellas! I removed the old style wire that wasn't connected to anything and I found where the black wire was connected to. It looks like there are three wires connected to the one spot on the side of the can that the points are inside of. One goes to the condenser and one to the coil. The third I'm not sure about. Can I remove it, or is it supposed to connect somewhere?

About he fuel line clip, I didn't see one. :shrug:

 

markus

Well-Known Member
#20
3rd wire is for the remote killswitch. it should actually get threaded onto what that old wire was attached to on the shroud tin. that is the insulated plastic block that you can tie a remote mounted kill switch wire to.
 
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