HS40 high performance parts?

delray

Well-Known Member
#22
I think it's just a 5 HP which I understand has the smaller combustion chamber. I took it off an old tiller that's been sitting under a plastic tote for about 8 years
yes it should, if the ID tag is also on it and mark ohh50(172cc). it too will have a small bore,but it can be bored out quite bit. i just stumbled across some pistons from a different flathead motor with over 2.800 bore and up to 2.850. something I still have to look into and see what kind of mods need to be done to install them. maybe down the line I will post more on it or just keep it a secret....lol
 
#23
yes it should, if the ID tag is also on it and mark ohh50(172cc). it too will have a small bore,but it can be bored out quite bit. i just stumbled across some pistons from a different flathead motor with over 2.800 bore and up to 2.850. something I still have to look into and see what kind of mods need to be done to install them. maybe down the line I will post more on it or just keep it a secret....lol
I'll tear into that motor soon and see what's there. It had a new chinko carb put on it just before I bought it for a garden project that never happened. Ran good the ONE time I started it.
 

delray

Well-Known Member
#25
This is what i'm working with for my flat tracker. '71 Rupp hustler with a couple of swingarms so I can do an extended one like I saw on one of the builds here. (need to hear more about that metallic swingarm bushing) Right now stripped down for de-greasing, metal repair on the seat pan, blasting and powdercoating

View attachment 237255
yes I just torch the old rubber bushing out and made a solid aluminum bushing. the stock rubber bushing is terrible when it comes to putting a lot of load on it when turning left or right. swing arm likes to move all over. especially when using a larger rim(10" or12")
I think with the type of driving you will be doing I would keep the front suspension the stock height and spring and the rear after extending the arm about 5" long. something else to keep in mine too. when making the arm longer you might want to cut and lengthen in a way so you can maybe also modify it so you can install a jackshaft in the swing arm to get the right amount of gearing. you might not get it with just the stock factory way? just don't know off hand the kind of road course you are riding on?
back to your swing arm bushing. you might want to make a short aluminum bushing and have a good sealed bearing on each end. you might have a lot of movement up and down. for me I just drag race the bike for the most part and really don't se a lot of movement. make sure you have a good rounded knobby tire so it can roll easy into the corners and hold the bike up. also I have notes in the past with the stock length rear arm the bike likes to buck you off when going into a corner fast when you try to lay it down when turning. so longer may help the problem go away and don't forget the motorcross style handlebars too...…..
 
#28
yes I just torch the old rubber bushing out and made a solid aluminum bushing. the stock rubber bushing is terrible when it comes to putting a lot of load on it when turning left or right. swing arm likes to move all over. especially when using a larger rim(10" or12")
I think with the type of driving you will be doing I would keep the front suspension the stock height and spring and the rear after extending the arm about 5" long. something else to keep in mine too. when making the arm longer you might want to cut and lengthen in a way so you can maybe also modify it so you can install a jackshaft in the swing arm to get the right amount of gearing. you might not get it with just the stock factory way? just don't know off hand the kind of road course you are riding on?
back to your swing arm bushing. you might want to make a short aluminum bushing and have a good sealed bearing on each end. you might have a lot of movement up and down. for me I just drag race the bike for the most part and really don't se a lot of movement. make sure you have a good rounded knobby tire so it can roll easy into the corners and hold the bike up. also I have notes in the past with the stock length rear arm the bike likes to buck you off when going into a corner fast when you try to lay it down when turning. so longer may help the problem go away and don't forget the motorcross style handlebars too...…..
I've actually got a honda XR80 front end with hydraulic dampening that I'm seriously considering grafting onto this thing. I'm still up in the air on it, and it may take some serious mockup time before I make a decision one way or the other
 
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