HS40 Rupp

delray

Well-Known Member
#41
yes,both bowls. just clean up the rough edges. from the bowl into the runner only. you don't need to go over kill and stay off the back flat wall or you will go through it.
here is a video that just came out today. the guy is little goofy with his video's but he is for the most part spot on how to set up your governor. sometimes a video can help you better understand how the whole thing works.
 
#42
Recieved the arc billet rod, new rings and misc parts today. Honed the cylinder, 400 grit, ring gap w/new rings .007. A few small scratches running parallel to cylinder. Not sure if it requires additonal honing? 20190706_152833.jpg
 

delray

Well-Known Member
#45
wow that's little crazy you still got .007 ring gap out of a re-ring motor. bore must of been almost new.
looking good.
 
#46
Question on the rings, I ordered a set that "replaces tec ST500355, 33315 & 34854,. Should I stick with a TEC 33315 orig? Don't want to jeopardize
the engine by trying to save a couple bucks.
 
#47
Question on the rings, I ordered a set that "replaces tec ST500355, 33315 & 34854,. Should I stick with a TEC 33315 orig? Don't want to jeopardize the engine by trying to save a couple bucks.
I've never had a problem with non-Tecumseh rings that I can recall. As long as they are in specification, I'd have no problem. The only issue I have found is getting the correct rings for the older piston and not the newer ones. You can use the newer piston and rings in your engine, but you can't mix the rings. I don't think you've done that.

I've never got a .007 end gap on a used engine with new STD rings. I don't even mess with getting STD rings, and go for .010 OS and then trim. So you having that tight of a gap (no matter how you did it) is great. As long as you have between .002 and .005 Side Clearance on the compression rings, and .001 to .004 on your oil ring, you are golden. (I look this stuff up in my manual before citing it in public posts, so no, I am not that smart) :)
 

cfh

Well-Known Member
#48
Much like eBay ads, a lot of the standard distributors don’t have part numbers correct on ring sets either. Personally I don’t like non tecumseh ring sets, as the ring and pre ring placement is sometimes odd. I guess I’m just not used to it, and I alway second guess my installation.

On the numbers that Dave posted those are for pretty much for brand new Bores. For a used cylinder, being that tight might be problematic, as the bore is not perfectly round. For this reason I err on the large end of those numbers. Or even larger. I have not found issues with doing that. Too tight you can have big problems. If a little on the loose side, you really don’t lose anything. So I go on the large side Of the range. It has worked well for me doing this
 
#49
I think this engine had very few hours and like new. The bore measurement show no ovality issues and was only honed for about 10 secs w/400 grit.
Just for the heck of it I measured the ring gap with the new ring, before I honed the cylinder, it measured .006.
I'd like say it's like a brand new bore "fingers crossed". I think a found a diamond in the rough. Can't wait to start assembly.
 
#50
I think this engine had very few hours and like new. The bore measurement show no ovality issues and was only honed for about 10 secs w/400 grit.
Just for the heck of it I measured the ring gap with the new ring, before I honed the cylinder, it measured .006.
I'd like say it's like a brand new bore "fingers crossed". I think a found a diamond in the rough. Can't wait to start assembly.
If they are that tight, you really don't even need rings.
 
#53
Finally getting back to my project, started assembling the engine, but i think i made a rookie mistake.... the ringset did not include the thin ring that goes behind the oil ring , so I don't have one installed on my piston, is it required part? Doesn't pay to get on a hurry. I'm getting ready install the valve springs, so i better address this issue now. Hopefully it's not show stopper or a piston stopper. Ha
 

delray

Well-Known Member
#54
if you still have the old oil ring spacer though that one in. better then nothing.
see you at symco next week...…...
 

delray

Well-Known Member
#57
got it out and it looks to be in good shape. I believe this engine originally had very low hrs on it. if you go back and look at my build you will see what it look like before I built this engine up. just look at the piston that it came off. I think that says it all.
 

delray

Well-Known Member
#60
make sure you take little lapping valve compound on that pretty shiny tapered shaft first and seat that flywheel to it first or you could shear off the keyway real easy.
here's what you want it to look like when finish....


 
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