HS50 bog with turn of the throttle.

buckeye

buckeye

Well-Known Member
#1
#1
I have searched, tried every carb adjustment there is and still bogs as soon as I cracking the throttle.
Idles perfect.
Just barely cracked the throttle and rpm's begin to raise then just bogs out.
Let off, idles perfect.
Brand new carb because original was doing the same thing.
What am I missing.
Main jet out 1 1/4-1/2
Side idle screw at 1 turn out.
And idle adjustment on top 1 turn from closed.
I'm gonna burn it..
 
Sprocket86

Sprocket86

Active Member
#2
#2
I'm going through some Tec carb troubles on that survivor DMP Scamper I picked up last weekend. I feel the frustration and pain lol.

Are you getting good fuel supply flow from the tank?

What is the float height set at?

Any possible air leaks perhaps between the carb and intake port in the block?

My carb seems to run out of fuel in the bowl and seems to have some sort of fuel flow restriction at the fuel inlet elbow on the carb body.
 
H

Havasu Dave

Moderator
#3
#3
Points engine, or solid state?

I've had that happen to the last two engines I've rebuilt, "after" I'd timed them. I was off just enough to make them not accelerate. The last one, an H35, was the BEST idling engine I'd ever seen. "Thump, Thump, Thump" about 300 RPM, I swear. No acceleration. Timed that one three times before I got it right. (sigh) and changed carb, and all ignition components. Found out the new points were messed up with the tension and not returning each time.

As far as the carb, you've adjusted several of them, so I know you're on it. On some Tec's, I've ended up with the low speed jet out 1/8 turn, and the high speed jet out 1/2 turn.

It's frustrating, isn't it?
 
buckeye

buckeye

Well-Known Member
#5
#5
It ran real well for a short time befor I bought the new carb.
It is the one on my Heald.
Since posting, I have gone out and removed the air cleaner.
Lots of gas smell.
Guess I could pull the flywheel and check points.
I was just convinced it was carb as it ran absolutely perfect.
Shut it off and have had hell since.
Thanks for suggestions.
 
minibikin'

minibikin'

Sho-nuff
#6
#6
Float height? You didn't mention if this is an aftermarket carb? If so, I'd open it up and check the needle and seat as well as the adjustment screws. I've seen a few wonky ones....


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buckeye

buckeye

Well-Known Member
#7
#7
Will do.
Thank you for responding.
Even with air filter off, completely open, still does it.
I know this is a rookie issue but, I have done well with every other tec carb I have.
This just beats me.
 
H

Havasu Dave

Moderator
#9
#9
I'm still sticking with timing or failure of an ignition component for the simple reason that you know very well how to tune these carbs. It is acting exactly like an ill-timed Tecumseh, right down to the flooding indications. I bet it starts spitting drops of fuel out the intake when you attempt to accelerate the engine.

OND is fairly close to you as far as shipping it off and getting someone to look at it. Timing these things sucks, even if you have done it several times.
 
Last edited:
OND

OND

#10
#10
Tom...If I can help just let me know ! Looks like you've got some great advice so far....man I hope this isn't the going trend as I have not started my HS40 yet ...:laugh:
 
buckeye

buckeye

Well-Known Member
#11
#11
OEM carb does the same thing as this new after market.
Chug, chug, chug, let off, idles perfect.
Guess I need to dig.
Thanks for the replys.

What gets me is that it ran perfect. Then shut it down and hasn't run right since.
 
markus

markus

Well-Known Member
#12
#12
buckeye said:
OEM carb does the same thing as this new after market.
Chug, chug, chug, let off, idles perfect.
Guess I need to dig.
Thanks for the replys.

What gets me is that it ran perfect. Then shut it down and hasn't run right since.
Click to expand...
Is that the engine that popped the magnets loose on the Flywheel awhile back? Did it run good right after the repair shop fixed it and then it has set since then, or have you put some miles and time on it since?
 
joebiodiesel

joebiodiesel

Member
#13
#13
The symptom points to the main jet being lean, or not delivering fuel at all. Try it at 3/4 coke to see if it improves.
If not, maybe it is the timing. See if it is set correctly.

Joe
 
ole4

ole4

#14
#14
Weak spark can cause this issue as well. When you open throttle it allows more air to get into engine whic makes the compression pressure higher and makes it harder to fire plug.
 
ole4

ole4

#15
#15
Make sure plug is not fouled. Test spark with adjustable gap tester or for a quick test close gap to .015 and see if symptoms improve.
 
Dr. Shop Teacher

Dr. Shop Teacher

#16
#16
Tom, I'd go back and check the float height (5/32 drill bit) as noted in an earlier post (on both carbs). I had this problem on an HS40, an HS50, and an OH195. Each time, it was the float. All mine were solid state ignitions, BTW. If you're blowing fuel out with the air cleaner off, there's a good chance it's the float. It's an easy check and fix before you start tearing into the flywheel and setting timing. I've gotten into the habit of going through the carb before I install it (after taking three times to learn my lesson:facepalm:).

Dave's right...the settings can really get funky with some of these carbs--no where near what the book settings are. Too often these cheap carbs are just junk and nothing will fix them.
 
buckeye

buckeye

Well-Known Member
#17
#17
Man, so many great folks on here. [MENTION=5969]markus[/MENTION], yes same engine.
But, more to the story.
He got it running and the flywheel came off.lol
Tore up a bunch.
Rich took it home and Rebuilt it.
It was running treat,cthen all of a sudden this crap started.
I took the original carb off, cleaned the heck out of it and it ran better than ever.
I came back from a ride, shut it down, and started this stuff.
Ahhh, has to be carb I said.
Ordered new carb, no difference.
So time to dig a little deeper.
Thanks all.
Such great members.
 
markus

markus

Well-Known Member
#18
#18
buckeye said:
Man, so many great folks on here. [MENTION=5969]markus[/MENTION], yes same engine.
But, more to the story.
He got it running and the flywheel came off.lol
Tore up a bunch.
Rich took it home and Rebuilt it.
It was running treat,cthen all of a sudden this crap started.
I took the original carb off, cleaned the heck out of it and it ran better than ever.
I came back from a ride, shut it down, and started this stuff.
Ahhh, has to be carb I said.
Ordered new carb, no difference.
So time to dig a little deeper.
Thanks all.
Such great members.
Click to expand...
its worth a check of the status of the flywheel, key, and whats going on underneath, if anything just to rule that out. Those 70's steel wheel engines have been the only ones I have ever found flywheel/key issues with, a good kick back or something to that effect might crack the key. Maybe one of the reasons they upgraded to a larger taper starting in 1981, to go along with the added weight of the wheel.

Good luck with it :thumbsup:
 
Dr. Shop Teacher

Dr. Shop Teacher

#20
#20
markus said:
its worth a check of the status of the flywheel, key, and whats going on underneath, if anything just to rule that out. Those 70's steel wheel engines have been the only ones I have ever found flywheel/key issues with, a good kick back or something to that effect might crack the key. Maybe one of the reasons they upgraded to a larger taper starting in 1981, to go along with the added weight of the wheel.

Good luck with it :thumbsup:
Click to expand...
Markus is right about the key....forgot about that (and torque it to spec, too).
 
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