Hydraulic brake question

#1
I watched a couple youtube videos and they say you're supposed to adjust the nut on the brake caliper so its going "downhill" like in the picture. is this correct and will it also effect braking power? mine is currently spun around the opposite way (by previous owner...)
 

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#2
What "nut" are you referring to? If you are referring to the banjo fitting (green thingy on the end of the hose in photo), it doesn't matter how it's oriented, just position it for the best run of the brake line for the particular case. For example, you might want it pointing upward (as in photo) if you run the line along the top of the frame, pointing downward if you run the line along the bottom of the frame. If you are referring to the bleeder, it needs be at the top of the caliper (as pictured) so the system can be bled properly, this depends on selecting the proper caliper for the application in the first place. If referring to something else, please explain. There's a lot of bad information on YouTube...

caliper.jpg
 
#3
Yeah I noticed that about YouTube as well. The banjo fitting is what I was referring to, pretty much all I needed to know I figured it wouldn’t matter the position. I’m going to run the line along the top so I’ll just spin it around like in the photo
 
#4
Yeah I noticed that about YouTube as well. The banjo fitting is what I was referring to, pretty much all I needed to know I figured it wouldn’t matter the position. I’m going to run the line along the top so I’ll just spin it around like in the photo
If you loosen the banjo bolt just enough to rotate the fitting you may be able to keep it sealed and not lose much/any fluid.

FYI: The banjo can also be flipped over for a more desirable angle in some cases. I remember flipping the master cylinder end on a motorcycle when installing a lower handlebar many years ago to keep the hose away from the instrument pod.
 
#5
I watched a couple youtube videos and they say you're supposed to adjust the nut on the brake caliper so its going "downhill" like in the picture. is this correct and will it also effect braking power? mine is currently spun around the opposite way (by previous owner...)
Words of wisdom. If you have a heavily modified 212, or similar, I wouldn't risk your life on the hydro brakes. Two different bikes, one highly modified, one billet internals but no cam. Both bikes snapped the ear off of the chineseium caliper. It's a thin casting. If you want to know fear, try slowing down from a 65mph rip heading into a dead end street and having a catastrophic brake failure. I love the stopping power but they aren't for high speed stopping. Ideally hydro brakes with a back up system would be safer. They have scrub brakes for the clutch bell that work ok. Or add a rear wheel disc upfront and use mechanical brakes on there.
 
#6
Words of wisdom. If you have a heavily modified 212, or similar, I wouldn't risk your life on the hydro brakes. Two different bikes, one highly modified, one billet internals but no cam. Both bikes snapped the ear off of the chineseium caliper. It's a thin casting. If you want to know fear, try slowing down from a 65mph rip heading into a dead end street and having a catastrophic brake failure. I love the stopping power but they aren't for high speed stopping. Ideally hydro brakes with a back up system would be safer. They have scrub brakes for the clutch bell that work ok. Or add a rear wheel disc upfront and use mechanical brakes on there.
I've had 2 of these fail (1 catastrophically) and had 2 friends with them that failed as well. They're junk. I wish there was a higher quality bolt-on option out there.
 
#7
The brake is not going to be affected no matter how it is mounted. The ability to bleed air out of the brake will be greatly affected. The bleeder should always be on the top so the air will "rise" as the brake fluid fills the cavity.

As a side: Those brakes are a lot easier to bleed backwards. Fill a bottle that has a nipple on it (like a mustard squirt bottle) with brake fluid. Put a hose from the bottle to the open bleeder. Bottle upside down and gently squeeze. The fluid will fill the caliper, then the line and then the master cylinder. Way easier and faster than gravity bleeding.
 
#8
I have a setup with the brake bleeder facing downward. I have to remove the caliper to bleed it, its easy to do but still a pain. I wanted to use that caliper as it was off a ATV and stronger than the small hydraulic ones. DSC01336.JPG
 
#9
Words of wisdom. If you have a heavily modified 212, or similar, I wouldn't risk your life on the hydro brakes. Two different bikes, one highly modified, one billet internals but no cam. Both bikes snapped the ear off of the chineseium caliper. It's a thin casting. If you want to know fear, try slowing down from a 65mph rip heading into a dead end street and having a catastrophic brake failure. I love the stopping power but they aren't for high speed stopping. Ideally hydro brakes with a back up system would be safer. They have scrub brakes for the clutch bell that work ok. Or add a rear wheel disc upfront and use mechanical brakes on there.
Thank you for the insight Camjamsdad Had no idea the "chineseium calipers" were such garbage. I actually purchased a couple to use.
One installed on a DB that my daughter rides (wide open mind you)
Now I better reevaluate my thot process.
I do have an Quad option i can get parts from. Locked up and not worth the time and money to bring it back to life. Think i may have found a great donor worth exploring.
 
#13
Strigoi sir: dual piston caliper? Is that a Kart brake? Way nice looking setup.
I did add the little Chinesium Hydraulic Brakes (rear only) to a DB30 works great!
That is till y'all mentioned jump on the binders and Shtuff comes unremanufactured right now, right quick, and in a hurry! Then it's Flintstone Brakes time, while you're hurling towards the end of the line @ warp 3! Then the pucker factor sets in, an life gets up close and personal with it flashing B4 my very eyes! Don't know bout y'all, but there's some Shtuff in my life I'd rather not see again! o_O

So with that said where does one find such a setup? I do have access to a dead quad for a donor, perhaps look there. Or where might one find such a caliper set-up as you posted? Is that 8mm banjo fittings or 10mm?
Thank you,
Mark
 
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#14
Strigoi sir: dual piston caliper? Is that a Kart brake? Way nice looking setup.
I did add the little Chinesium Hydraulic Brakes (rear only) to a DB30 works great!
That is till y'all mentioned jump on the binders and Shtuff comes unremanufactured right now, right quick, and in a hurry! Then it's Flintstone Brakes time, while you're hurling towards the end of the line @ warp 3! Then the pucker factor sets in, an life gets up close and personal with it flashing B4 my very eyes! Don't know bout y'all, but there's some Shtuff in my life I'd rather not see again! o_O

So with that said where does one find such a setup? I do have access to a dead quad for a donor, perhaps look there. Or where might one find such a caliper set-up as you posted? Is that 8mm banjo fittings or 10mm?
Thank you,
Mark
https://www.gopowersports.com/mega-moto-b212-rear-hydraulic-brake-assembly-left-hand/

That's the brake setup. I'm running it with a Doodlebug rear wheel that's running a stock DB rotor on the CT200U. For mine, it obviously took welding up a bracket to make it work. Also had to get custom bearings (not cheap) to make that wheel work with the stock CT200U rear axle. About the only original parts left on that bike are the footpegs and rear axle adjusters. Everything else has been messed with in one way or another.

edit: An older pic of that side of the bike (has a TAV and solid Douglas front wheel now). It does need a shorter brake line for my application as the one that came with it is way too long. I just haven't gotten around to doing anything about that yet as it's just a cosmetic issue. It works fine, just looks funny having it snake around like it does.

 
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#15
heres the kart brakes i meant, they are mcp, i think it was about $230 for the whole setup from master cyl to caliper with lines and fluidback in 2004 . stopped that bike on a dime, seriously killer brakes. I wish I had more info, but i built that bike back in 2004 and sold it a few years ago. $270 for the kit at bmi todays prices but the axle mount rotor mount/adapter may not work on your setup. if you got a seriously fast bike, these are the brakes you want to run.
 

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#16
Strigoi sir: that's a way sharp looking bike no matter how ya slice it! :cool:
Think i saw it in a different post you made recently.
That's the same brake set-up that i put on the Doodle Bug when i figured out the cable pull disc brake set-up didn't work as well as I'd hope for...
Thank you for the link and the info.
I've read in these pages where one might wanna reconsider the Chinesium brake set-ups on mini-bikes with Stupid Power... :oops:
 
#17
Kyminibiker now that's a mini-bike with Stupid Power :cool: really like your brake setup. I understand why you went with that kinda set-up.
You got the go... gotta have the whoa!
 
#18
Kyminibiker now that's a mini-bike with Stupid Power :cool: really like your brake setup. I understand why you went with that kinda set-up.
You got the go... gotta have the whoa!
It was a basically stock fe290 kawasaki, i think 9 or 11 hp but it moved out pretty good. If you are gonna build a serious bike, those brakes are worth the money. The setups mentioned above are good too, in fact gonna try them on a few projects I have planned for this summer but they aren't top end bikes at all.
 
#19
Well Sir Kymb: if'n it's any consultation I'm not sure that a high end bike has found me yet!
Not only that, i don't even know what treasures i do have! Lol
Sad huh?

I do know the one DB I've put the hydraulic brakes on works amazingly well... i think? Can't seem to get the daughter off it long enuff to know 4sure! ;)
Think I'll still cob onto the quad brakes that are lonesome and need a new home! Just in case i wanna do something wild and wonderful...
 
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