I hear you knoking...

FOMOGO

FOMOGO

#1
#1
I have a 2003 Ranger with a 4.0 SOHC V-6. It has 2 timing chains. One in the front and one in the rear. You have to pull the engine to change the rear chain/cassette assembly. I was fully aware of this before I bought the truck. The Ford dealer gives 25 hours labor to do the job.

During spring break I didn't get any break at all. Left Sunday morning taking the Super Duty to BTS in Lead Hill Arkansas to get the trans fixed Monday morning at 7:00AM. He pulled it fully cleaned it. Fixed it and put it all back together that same day. We loaded it up and headed out about 4:00PM. Got back home at 9:00AM Tuesday morning. My Brother in law showed up Tuesday evening to help me pull the engine out of the Ranger. Wednesday we went at it. Got it done pretty uneventfully and tried to crank it with a "no crank" situation. Well after a day and a half of chasing grounds and ohming wires we found a bent pin on the PCM and it was the one that provided the ground to the starter relay.... Got it fixed and fired it up only to hear a knock. No question it was on the left side of the engine. This was Saturday afternoon so we gave up.....

Finally pulled the left head this past Saturday and found the noise. Have no clue what it is, other than a piece of metal, or where it came from. The good thing is that it was soft enough as was the aluminum head that I don't think it hurt anything. I have a few more thing to get done on the truck before I start driving it again so I will find out soon if it is good or not.

When I drained the coolant it was as pretty as when I poured it out of the jug 50,000 miles ago. I was shocked to see what the cooling system looked like when I pulled the head. [MENTION=47323]OND[/MENTION] The passages were open but they are ugly. Got to figure out what to do to clean them.
 
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owend

owend

#2
#2
Pretty sure they were made in Germany. I have seen them with 200k plus with regular maintenance when I worked at a Ford dealership. Hope you get it figured out Doug.
 
M

Mariah

#4
#4
That sure looks like an upholstery staple to me or it might just be the hook end of a coil spring. How on earth would something like that get past the air cleaner?!?!?!
 
FOMOGO

FOMOGO

#5
#5
owend said:
Pretty sure they were made in Germany. I have seen them with 200k plus with regular maintenance when I worked at a Ford dealership. Hope you get it figured out Doug.
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Yes they are part of the German built Cologne engine family. Its back together and runs fine. After removing the inner fenders for extra working room I discovered that the right front tire is severly worn on the inside. I just figured an alignment was in order with a new set of tires. When I put the plugs back in the right side I noticed that the rear upper control arm bushing was worn out. So they are on the way and I will install them along with the tires and an alignment. Its always something.

Mariah said:
That sure looks like an upholstery staple to me or it might just be the hook end of a coil spring. How on earth would something like that get past the air cleaner?!?!?!
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I thought about a hog ring but they are round. This thing is flat and who knows if it was straight or curved or ??? My brother in law pulled it out of the head with his fingers. So I am content that its not hurt and glad the head was soft enough to give it a little space. You could turn the crank with the balancer bolt and just feel a snug spot as you turned it past TDC.

I don't drive it like an old man so if its hurt it will show its self... I fell that nothings hurt other than my feelings....

The head bolts are torque to yield. First step is 26 foot pounds. Then turn all of them 90 degrees. Then turn all of them 90 degrees again.... The second 90 degrees was almost impossible... We cleaned the threads and oiled the bolts and the bolt head flanges thoroughly. But it was dang near impossible to get the second 90 degree turn done. It took both of us on everyone of them.

Doug
 
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OND

OND

#6
#6
Wow ! Doug I have know idea what that is , as Mariah said my first thought was a staple/steeple but who knows for sure what it actually looked like when it started out. Doesn't look like much damage was done though , slap that puppy back together and let it rip ! Still puzzling as to what it was ! If it came in threw the int. valve there's no telling....Its not the wire/electrode out of the spark plug is it ?
 
FOMOGO

FOMOGO

#7
#7
OND said:
Wow ! Doug I have know idea what that is , as Mariah said my first thought was a staple/steeple but who knows for sure what it actually looked like when it started out. Doesn't look like much damage was done though , slap that puppy back together and let it rip ! Still puzzling as to what it was ! If it came in threw the int. valve there's no telling....Its not the wire/electrode out of the spark plug is it ?
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Nope all the plugs were intact... Its a soft metal of some sort. Lord knows what it was or where it came from to be up on the intake. The intake ports on these are on a horizontal plane. Dead flat, not angled like a small block Ford or Chevy. You have to pull the intake in order to get the engine out. Before I started this I called the shop foreman at Ravenel Ford in Charleston and asked him what to watch out for. He was my best student in shop class when I was teaching. He said "make sure you clean around the intake real good before you take it off". I sprayed it with Gunk, washed it with high pressure water and then dried it with high pressure air... As soon as the intake was off I taped up the ports. So it must have fallen in as the intake was being wiggled out from between the fuel rails. At least we didn't have to pull the engine to remove the head. If it was the right head I am not sure we could have gotten it off or worse, back on in the frame.

My question for you was about the cooling system. Like I said the coolant was as pretty as when it came out of the bottle 50,000 miles ago when I flushed it and refilled it with new coolant. Something I do when I buy a vehicle. Along with replacing every bulb with a good high end brand name bulb.

I used to use Barsleak brand cleaner that was 2 part with a neutralizer to clean the system but its been outlawed for 30 years. It was good stuff... It would probably kill the aluminum radiator in the thing.

Any suggestion on what is currently available that actually does a good job?

Thanks,

Doug
 
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S

SAT

#8
#8
Permatex radiator flush. Flush it, drain it, stick a garden hose in the fill. Run the engine at an idle with the drain open until it runs clear.
Or what your Ford garage man says to do.
Nice work, good thread,
Steve
 
FOMOGO

FOMOGO

#9
#9
SAT said:
Permatex radiator flush. Flush it, drain it, stick a garden hose in the fill. Run the engine at an idle with the drain open until it runs clear.
Or what your Ford garage man says to do.
Nice work, good thread,
Steve
Click to expand...
Well that wont work..... Aluminum heads, radiator and heater core....

""Permatex Heavy Duty Radiator Cleaner removes rust and scale from automotive engines, radiators and water jackets. Not for use in aluminum radiators....""

Just ordered this. Cant find it locally at the box stores. Not going to worry about it and just ride like I have been doing until it gets here. Then we will see how it works.

https://www.amazon.com/Prestone-AS1...rd_wg=E744d&psc=1&refRID=9K9Z889ZVGXZ9QHXEJEB
 
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Charles S

Charles S

#10
#10
Well, I've looked at the photos and thought about what it could be and how it could have gotten in there, and I can't even make a guess. The impressions in the head and piston make me think it was a different shape before getting pounded. The impressions also make me think it wasn't very soft initially; may have been softened/annealed by the heat. There is a possibility of the sharp edges of the impressions creating hot spots which could ignite the fuel/air mixture prematurely.

Did you use new bolts? The torque-to-yield only works properly with new bolts (specific to application); it will not work properly with previously stretched bolts (bolts are not to be reused). I realize there's a good chance you know this, but thought I'd mention it.

I read a little bit about that engine; according to what I've read, it actually has 3 timing chains as it uses a jackshaft. With one of those chains being at the rear, I probably would have put the truck up for sale "as is". I admire your courage, but question your sanity, for tearing into it. :wink:

I think I'm glad my '04 Ranger has the Vulcan 3.0 V6 pushrod engine. I probably would have gotten the 4.0 (bigger is better mindset) but it wasn't available in the configuration I wanted (2-wheel drive, regular cab). I ordered my Ranger in January '04; I got an XLT regular cab with stepside (AKA: Flareside) bed in bright red; XLT, 3.0, 5-speed automatic, 3.73:1 limited slip (part of towing package), 4-wheel ABS, AC, PS, PB, PW, PM, tilt, cruise. I wanted the regular cab and stepside bed because it looks like an older truck, even though the extended cab (AKA: SuperCab) and regular bed (AKA: Styleside) would have been more practical. I took delivery of my Ranger in March '04 and still have it. I customized it a bit with a body-color grill shell (replacing chrome) and billet aluminum insert; removed splash guards and all exterior emblems except the blue oval on the tailgate; added Extang Tuff Tonno (held up great, just replaced the tarp last year); added K&N intake kit and custom exhaust; lowered the rear of the truck enough to level it (rear was rather high due to HD springs included in towing package; tow pkg was the only way to get the limited slip dif); Billet Specialties Vintec Dish wheels with BFG Radial T/A tires (235/70-15 front, 275/60-15 rear; old school style stagger but same 28" OD F/R so as not to mess with ABS); Sony HD head unit, four 6x8 Kenwood Performace Series 3-way speakers (will easily shake/blur all 3 mirrors; no subwoofer needed). The Ranger has been great; I haven't had any problems with it, but it only has 52k miles on it. I've never been disappointed in the 3.0; combined with the 5-speed auto and 3.73:1 gears, in a 3100 lb truck, it's surprisingly quick (doesn't mean I've never fantasized about a 300 HP Mustang 3.7 V6 6-speed powered Ranger, or a V8 Ranger). I'm off-topic rambling; I'll stop. :001_rolleyes:

I hope both of your trucks are good to go, now, Doug.
 
FOMOGO

FOMOGO

#11
#11
Charles S said:
Well, I've looked at the photos and thought about what it could be and how it could have gotten in there, and I can't even make a guess. The impressions in the head and piston make me think it was a different shape before getting pounded. The impressions also make me think it wasn't very soft initially; may have been softened/annealed by the heat. There is a possibility of the sharp edges of the impressions creating hot spots which could ignite the fuel/air mixture prematurely.

Did you use new bolts? The torque-to-yield only works properly with new bolts (specific to application); it will not work properly with previously stretched bolts (bolts are not to be reused). I realize there's a good chance you know this, but thought I'd mention it.

I read a little bit about that engine; according to what I've read, it actually has 3 timing chains as it uses a jackshaft. With one of those chains being at the rear, I probably would have put the truck up for sale "as is". I admire your courage, but question your sanity, for tearing into it. :wink:

The Ranger has been great; I haven't had any problems with it, but it only has 52k miles on it. I've never been disappointed in the 3.0; combined with the 5-speed auto and 3.73:1 gears, in a 3100 lb truck, it's surprisingly quick (doesn't mean I've never fantasized about a 300 HP Mustang 3.7 V6 6-speed powered Ranger, or a V8 Ranger). I'm off-topic rambling; I'll stop. :001_rolleyes:

I hope both of your trucks are good to go, now, Doug.
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Took a fill to the sharp edges for that very reason Charles. The impressions are still there but no sharp edges to create preignition. The ports and the valve sizes are impressive for just 245 inches. Looked at the cam specs in the shop manual and it has .532 lift on both intake and exhaust.... Me likey...

And yes new head bolts. Mine has 3 chains. But I bought the 4 chain kit just in case it had a balance shaft. It is supposed to be, 2WD no balance shaft, 4WD balance shaft. It cost 7 or 8 bucks extra to by the balance shaft kit verses the non balance shaft kit. It was a CYA.... Didn't have the balance shaft so now I have a cut little chain and sprocket set to hang on the wall.

As far as tackling it, it wasn't that big of a deal. Didn't have to break the AC system so that was a huge plus. The torque converter bolts were a little challenging going back together but everything else was pretty straight forward. Got everything taken loose and hooked the chain to it. Ran the fork lift fork through the chain and it didn't have a choice. Little wiggle and a little jiggle and it slid right out. My Brother in Law is retired from Rick Hendrick Volvo. The Volvos use a very similar timing set up. You have to have the tool set to align the crank and the cams. So he was comfortable with the set up procedure. I just let him have at setting the cams. I made sure the crank didn't turn...

We some how bent a pin in the PCM connector and man it is hard to see one that is bent. We both looked at it 4 or 5 different times before it was seen. The irony of that one pin was that it supplied the ground to the start relay in the main power box. So we tried to start it and it had a no crank. He suggested that we chase all the grounds first. Well you can check the wire from one connector to the other but you cant check the out put pins on the PCM without a break out box. Took a day and a half retracing everything multiple times to finally find it. Then it cranked and had a knock.... Pulled all the plugs expecting to see one dinged up but nothing. Called it quits and it sat for a couple of weeks. It was good to take a break from it. Pulled the head and put it back in about 4 hours. Pretty straight forward. Runs slick as a whistle now.

If you think your 3.0 is quick you should drive this thing. When they were first introduced in the Exploder's the 4.0 SOHC was faster than the 4.6 V8 versions all day. Mine has a K&N intake and a cat back exhaust system. When you ring it out it sounds like a Quadrajet sucking air. I hate the factory speed limiter on the thing. Its a pain in the rear. I am going to chip it now that it has the new chains. Eliminate the speed limiter and improve the overall performance.

This is my 5th Ranger. My first (and my favorite) was an 87 2.9 5 sp. Then an 83 V-8 Auto. That was a lot of fun. Had an 86, have a 93 4.0 5sp and this 03. Currently looking for a standard cab 91 or 92 to put the drive train out of the 93 in. The 92 back had a bigger bed than the 93 up does. The seats in the 03 are junk as far as I am concerned. Most folks don't notice it but they are hard and offer no give. The older trucks had springs and the seats fit you butt. Now the seats are a molded piece of foam that has no give or springiness. I miss the seats in my first truck.

If you want to add to the fun factor of your truck go to the scrap yard and find a 4WD Ranger like yours. Pull both the front and the rear sway bar off and put them on your 2WD. The rear is a direct bolt on but the front has to be heated and widened at the ends about 1 1/2 inches. Not hard to do and very much worth the effort. It gave it a huge fun factor for very little money.

When I pull the upper A arms off the replace the bushings I have a lowering kit to install at the same time. My V-8 truck was on the ground. This one is going down.

Doug
 
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Charles S

Charles S

#13
#13
FOMOGO said:
If you want to add to the fun factor of your truck go to the scrap yard and find a 4WD Ranger like yours. Pull both the front and the rear sway bar off and put them on your 2WD. The rear is a direct bolt on but the front has to be heated and widened at the ends about 1 1/2 inches. Not hard to do and very much worth the effort. It gave it a huge fun factor for very little money.


Doug
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I neglected to mention that I installed a Ford Racing (now Ford Performance) sway bar kit. It added a rear bar and replaced the front one with a larger one; I used polyurethane end link bushings but used the rubber bar mount bushings to keep the noise down. It was a 2WD Ranger specific kit; straight bolt-on. I also removed one leaf from each rear spring pack to level the truck and replaced the OEM shocks with Monroe-Matic Plus. For a truck, it handles great.
 
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FOMOGO

FOMOGO

#15
#15
Charles S said:
I neglected to mention that I installed a Ford Racing (now Ford Performance) sway bar kit. It added a rear bar and replaced the front one with a larger one; I used polyurethane end link bushings but used the rubber bar mount bushings to keep the noise down. It was a 2WD Ranger specific kit; straight bolt-on. I also removed one leaf from each rear spring pack to level the truck and replaced the OEM shocks with Monroe-Matic Plus. For a truck, it handles great.
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There ya go. You know what I am talking about. Makes a huge difference in the truck. At least it did on mine. And being an old S.C.C.A. road racer it brings back good memories.
 
FOMOGO

FOMOGO

#17
#17
Tom S. said:
It looks a little bit like the broken end of a small coil spring. Or perhaps a little piece of safety wire. :shrug:
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It is a flat piece of metal Tom. Doesn't look like it was anything in particular. Its soft so it couldn't have been a retaining clip of some sort. Every wiring harness retainer on the engine is a plastic tab. The fuel rail bolts down so there are no clips on the injectors like I have seen on some engines. I have no clue where it came from or what it was originally but I am thankful that it was a small soft piece. The only way that it could have gotten in the engine was when I was removing the intake initially. As soon as I sat the intake down I grabbed the tape and covered the ports. I just wish I had looked in the ports before I taped them up...

It was a pain to R&R the head but I am glad that that's all it took to fix it. It runs good now and as soon as I pull the upper A arms and replace the bushings I will take it for a test drive. That will tell the tale....

Doug
 
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