Is anybody running a 420 O-ring chain on their Baja DB30?

I

Itchykawa

New Member
#1
#1
Hi. This is my first post.

O-ring chains are heads and tails above the other ones. The superior lifespan and ease of maintenance is usually worth any power loss or price increase IMO. I've been biking for over 50 years and through 60 or so machines from 50cc bikes to large displacement motorcycles of all kinds, and I am a stickler for O-ring chains on everything I own, if at all possible. I now want one on my recently restored old style, 212cc, DB30 (Doodle Bug) but was hoping to hear from someone who has already done it first. I just ordered my 420 clutch and sprocket, but, being rather new to mini biking, I am waiting to see if anyone replies to this post before I order the chain.

Thanks
 
S

SAT

#2
#2
Itchykawa said:
Hi. This is my first post.

O-ring chains are heads and tails above the other ones. The superior lifespan and ease of maintenance is usually worth any power loss or price increase IMO. I've been biking for over 50 years and through 60 or so machines from 50cc bikes to large displacement motorcycles of all kinds, and I am a stickler for O-ring chains on everything I own, if at all possible. I now want one on my recently restored old style, 212cc, DB30 (Doodle Bug) but was hoping to hear from someone who has already done it first. I just ordered my 420 clutch and sprocket, but, being rather new to mini biking, I am waiting to see if anyone replies to this post before I order the chain.

Thanks
Click to expand...
We went with DID racing 420, I don’t remember if it’s o-ring or not. Getting ready to do routine maintenance for the winter, so I have research to do. Great chain, no issues.
 
I

Itchykawa

New Member
#3
#3
SAT said:
We went with DID racing 420, I don’t remember if it’s o-ring or not. Getting ready to do routine maintenance for the winter, so I have research to do. Great chain, no issues.
Click to expand...
O-ring chains beat non-O-ring chains hands down. They live 5 times as long. They stretch and therefore wear out at a fraction of the rate of non-O-ring ones. It is debatable whether they ever need maintenance of any kind, though I usually do keep them clean and give them a dose of chain lube every hundred miles or so. I would even venture to say the cheapest O-ring chain money can buy would outlive the most expensive non-O-ring one. As far as I'm concerned, the only reasons not to go O-ring are 1) clearance issues - they are wider and sometimes rub on engine cases etc, or 2) power loss - they cause a bit more friction than a like new, well maintained non-O-ring one, though this is very negligible and therefore usually only relevant for racing purposes.

I am rather new to mini biking and can't seem to find anyone involved using an O-ring chain and was just wondering why.
 
S

SAT

#4
#4
Itchykawa said:
O-ring chains beat non-O-ring chains hands down. They live 5 times as long. They stretch and therefore wear out at a fraction of the rate of non-O-ring ones. It is debatable whether they ever need maintenance of any kind, though I usually do keep them clean and give them a dose of chain lube every hundred miles or so. I would even venture to say the cheapest O-ring chain money can buy would outlive the most expensive non-O-ring one. As far as I'm concerned, the only reasons not to go O-ring are 1) clearance issues - they are wider and sometimes rub on engine cases etc, or 2) power loss - they cause a bit more friction than a like new, well maintained non-O-ring one, though this is very negligible and therefore usually only relevant for racing purposes.

I am rather new to mini biking and can't seem to find anyone involved using an O-ring chain and was just wondering why.
Click to expand...
Our #35 chains are RLV gold on gold, runs great.
 
I

Itchykawa

New Member
#5
#5
SAT said:
Our #35 chains are RLV gold on gold, runs great.
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Thanks for throwing things out there. If I find out an O-ring chain isn't possible I will definitely get gold on gold. I'm certainly going with #420 chain though. That alone has got to help. This a fairly recent restoration/build. I used #35 chain and am distressed by the frequent, never-ending chain adjustments that involve moving the entire engine. I currently fiddle with the Doodle Bug's chain almost as much as I ride it. I have also noticed lots of owners on the internet trying to add some sort of makeshift, spring-loaded tensioner or otherwise improve on the wholly inadequate (to put it mildly) stock adjuster, so I am convinced this is an inherent problem, especially after swapping to bigger motors. My goal is to completely solve the issue once and for all no matter what it takes, and the bigger chain is just the first step. Where I go from there will be determined by the effectiveness of the changes done so far. An O-ring chain would be another significant step in the right direction, if it will fit. I figure if nobody has ever gone O-ring there must be a logical reason and just wanted to test the waters with this thread.
 
I

Itchykawa

New Member
#6
#6
SAT said:
We went with DID racing 420, I don’t remember if it’s o-ring or not. Getting ready to do routine maintenance for the winter, so I have research to do. Great chain, no issues.
Click to expand...
BTW... Usually if a chain says "racing" in the description it will be a non-O-ring chain for reason number 2 in my second post.
 
SAS289

SAS289

Well-Known Member
#7
#7
Itchykawa said:
Hi. This is my first post.

O-ring chains are heads and tails above the other ones. The superior lifespan and ease of maintenance is usually worth any power loss or price increase IMO. I've been biking for over 50 years and through 60 or so machines from 50cc bikes to large displacement motorcycles of all kinds, and I am a stickler for O-ring chains on everything I own, if at all possible. I now want one on my recently restored old style, 212cc, DB30 (Doodle Bug) but was hoping to hear from someone who has already done it first. I just ordered my 420 clutch and sprocket, but, being rather new to mini biking, I am waiting to see if anyone replies to this post before I order the chain.

Thanks
Click to expand...
I haven't ever heard of anyone in this or any other forum say "You know, you should really run an o-ring chain on your mini bike". This alone tells me they are not needed. The subject of chains comes up here and there but I don't recall o-ring chains ever playing a big part in the discussion.

You should know that there are regulars in this forum that run very powerful engines with good quality 35 chain. A decent quality 420 chain should be fine for your bike.
 
I74

I74

Well-Known Member
#8
#8
SAT said:
We went with DID racing 420, I don’t remember if it’s o-ring or not. Getting ready to do routine maintenance for the winter, so I have research to do. Great chain, no issues.
Click to expand...
I run DID #35 chain on everything, including my GX-200,, & my buddy's Tillotson 212. It's awesome, pre stretched & shot peened,, made in Japan also,,, & only costs 20 bucks for a 10ft. roll. ;)

I.M.O.,,
The rotation with #35 chain is ''a lot'' smoother than #420.
 
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SAS289

SAS289

Well-Known Member
#9
#9
The rotation with #35 chain is ''a lot'' smoother than #420.[/QUOTE]

Yes. This is the only thing I do not like about running an 8 or 9 tooth sprocket with a 420 chain. Yeah it works, but how well?
 
I74

I74

Well-Known Member
#10
#10
SAS289 said:
The rotation with #35 chain is ''a lot'' smoother than #420.
Click to expand...
Yes. This is the only thing I do not like about running an 8 or 9 tooth sprocket with a 420 chain. Yeah it works, but how well?[/QUOTE]

We have dz.'s of runs with the #35 chain stuff, & have not had any troubles.
 
I

Itchykawa

New Member
#11
#11
Thanks for all the answers. I just ordered an RK 420 gold racing chain. Perhaps I could have just ordered a better quality #35 chain in the first place, though it was a well reviewed, popular item on a respected mini bike site. The clutch I ordered is a 10 tooth and my rear sprocket is a 50 tooth. I wanted cornering ground clearance and speed on flat asphalt over hill pulling torque. It is a split sprocket as I plan to do some experimenting with rear sprocket sizes in the future and wanted changing them to be easy.
 
I74

I74

Well-Known Member
#12
#12
Itchykawa said:
Thanks for all the answers. I just ordered an RK 420 gold racing chain. Perhaps I could have just ordered a better quality #35 chain in the first place, though it was a well reviewed, popular item on a respected mini bike site. The clutch I ordered is a 10 tooth and my rear sprocket is a 50 tooth. I wanted cornering ground clearance and speed on flat asphalt over hill pulling torque. It is a split sprocket as I plan to do some experimenting with rear sprocket sizes in the future and wanted changing them to be easy.
Click to expand...


On my slightly modded GX -200,, I run that 5 - 1 ratio also,, except the clutch is a 13t, & rear is 65t.
It's pretty quick. :p

My buddy's slightly modded 212 Tillotson,, The ratio is : 4.7 - 1,, with a 13t clutch, & 61t rear.
It still pulls hills well with no effort.

We run Max torque 2600rpm ''green'' springs.

I.M.O.,,those are perfect combos with these engines & general cruising. ;)

Added,,
with that #420 chain,, I think your rotation would be noticeably ''a bunch'' smoother with a bit larger tooth count clutch sprocket ect.
 
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Strigoi

Strigoi

#13
#13
I've never had an issue running #35 chain. My CT200U that's 17hp+ with a Juggernaut/TAV setup (53t rear on a 15" tire) does just fine with RLV Extreme chain. I also weigh 260lbs so with the bike and myself on it it's not a light setup. I'm working on a drag build right now that should be 25hp and will be running #35 on it as well.

Anyone that thinks #35 won't handle the power of their stock/mildly modified engine is just misinformed. Thinking you need some fancy chain for a 212 swapped Doodlebug is just laughable. The cheap Chinese #35 will work just fine for it. It will stretch a lot though.
 
I

Itchykawa

New Member
#14
#14
I74 said:
On my slightly modded GX -200,, I run that 5 - 1 ratio also,, except the clutch is a 13t, & rear is 65t.
It's pretty quick. :p

My buddy's slightly modded 212 Tillotson,, The ratio is : 4.7 - 1,, with a 13t clutch, & 61t rear.
It still pulls hills well with no effort.

We run Max torque 2600rpm ''green'' springs.

I.M.O.,,those are perfect combos with these engines & general cruising. ;)

Added,,
with that #420 chain,, I think your rotation would be noticeably ''a bunch'' smoother with a bit larger tooth count clutch sprocket ect.
Click to expand...
I looked for a different 420 clutch with a higher tooth count but couldn't find one anywhere. I decided they must only make 10 tooth clutches in 420 and reluctantly gave in and purchased it. Can you steer me to a different one with a higher tooth count?
 
I

Itchykawa

New Member
#15
#15
Strigoi said:
I've never had an issue running #35 chain. My CT200U that's 17hp+ with a Juggernaut/TAV setup (53t rear on a 15" tire) does just fine with RLV Extreme chain. I also weigh 260lbs so with the bike and myself on it it's not a light setup. I'm working on a drag build right now that should be 25hp and will be running #35 on it as well.

Anyone that thinks #35 won't handle the power of their stock/mildly modified engine is just misinformed. Thinking you need some fancy chain for a 212 swapped Doodlebug is just laughable. The cheap Chinese #35 will work just fine for it. It will stretch a lot though.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the input. I was hoping to hear from someone with your considerable experience. I'm entirely new to mini bikes though I have had all kinds of small motorcycles and do currently own two small Hondas - a CRF70 and a n XR100 - and several several larger bikes All I can tell you for certain is that I'm perfectly willing to spend money and make changes to improve what I consider to be the excessive adjustments and maintenance I am currently experiencing with this Doodle Bug. I might regret these decisions. In the end I will report on the extent of my expenditures and whether or not I gained any significant improvement, just for the record.

Cheers.
 
I74

I74

Well-Known Member
#16
#16
All I'am seeing is 10t for #420 chain also …..

I'd be switching over to #35, or run what you have.
There is a few places that offer nice ''split sprocket'' CNC aluminum hubs for your bike.
My buddy & I, personally like the ones from GPS.
O.M.B. had a ''really cool'' looking hub listed with big holes in it, but never seemed to be in stock.
Been quite awhile since I looked for it though.

Ton's of clutch & split sprocket # 35 options out there also. ;)

Like I posted before,,
the 13 - 61 set up on my Buddy's slightly modded 212,, is the cat's meow,, for pretty much cruising .

Added,,

My Buddy weighs around 185lbs., & myself,, around 210.
If I was riding his bike, I would probably have it set up @ 13 - 63, / ''4.86 - 1''.

Thinking your GX-160, ''if I was riding it'',, would be set up @ 13 - 65, / ''5 -1'' .
 
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