Neither photo indicates proper slack or pulley alignment (?). Must do a pinch test and measure between the two. Additionally, if the bike is "heavy" to push, the belt is most likely not the correct belt or the backing plate needs reaming. I chose the latter as circumstances rarely lead to the best-fit with just one belt size otherwise.
Reaming? Presume you mean reaming the mounting holes to allow for a more adjustable plate position.
I have thought of this but if I do that I'm concerned of the plate moving around and wrecking something.
How far did you have to ream yours?
When I do the pinch test what measurements am I looking for? Do you have instructions on this? The photo attached is what I have done and the belt won't even give me 1mm.
Thanks
I have thought of this but if I do that I'm concerned of the plate moving around and wrecking something.
How far did you have to ream yours?
When I do the pinch test what measurements am I looking for? Do you have instructions on this? The photo attached is what I have done and the belt won't even give me 1mm.
Thanks
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^That's basically it. Fixed plates can be a bear. I didn't elongate the holes hardly at all after changing belts 3 or 4 times to minimize that machining. I did find variation in the same p/n belt sourced from different "brands".
A properly torqued backplate won't shift under load if the machining is precise with respect to bore-axis. I'll ask again, is the bike hard to push around?
A properly torqued backplate won't shift under load if the machining is precise with respect to bore-axis. I'll ask again, is the bike hard to push around?
Right, kart, not bike- sorry. Well, I would have to confer with others here that another belt is in order. As much as it is a waste, experimenting with other size belts will get you there. The belt supplied with my knock-off was also too tight. Went to a 5959 and a few others and picked the best-fit of those then started on the backplate. At one point had a CC on the bike and yes, with no contact it should be easy to push. However with the TAV, if you maintain the belt gap at the bushing, friction should be minimized with the system.
I have another torque converter bike with discreet drive/driven components. That belt is set loose so that a child can push the bike around. Performance is excellent and belt wear is indetectable. Little "grabby" but driveable.
I have another torque converter bike with discreet drive/driven components. That belt is set loose so that a child can push the bike around. Performance is excellent and belt wear is indetectable. Little "grabby" but driveable.
When you say grabby I'm guessing the belt grabs The drives and launches you forward. If so then yes this thing is very grabby, just give the throttle a bit of a squeeze and the jerks forward with little to no smooth control. I see most belts that for both 203589 and the 5959 are 27" 1/32 or so long, the one I have doesn't quite make 27". I'm waiting on a local go kart supplier to get back to me on how long his belts are. I'm also waiting on a carb jet drill set so I can retune after the air filter upgrade.
Thanks Neil
Thanks Neil