Is there a name for pulleys & belts with teeth?

Oldsalt

Well-Known Member
#2
HTD is one type. Gates makes what they dubed "8mm" because the "teeth" are half of an 8mm circle. They are, like chain sprockets and regular gears, made in a large number of "pitches" which is the number of teeth per inch. The HTD types have more or less square teeth. The pulleys are usually refered to as belt sprockets. What is the application? You planning on haveing the first belt drive mini? Any industrial bearing supply house will have all the info you will require.
 
#5
I was thinking of running 2 Briggs 5HPs side-by-side and have them firing every other revolution.:smile:

So I want to synconize there operation, but I think a chain system might not hold up to well. I was thinking maybe a belt system might absorb shockloads better....:shrug:
 
#6
I was thinking of running 2 Briggs 5HPs side-by-side and have them firing every other revolution.:smile:

So I want to synconize there operation, but I think a chain system might not hold up to well. I was thinking maybe a belt system might absorb shockloads better....:shrug:
On twin engine drag bikes the front engine leads the rear by about 5 deegrees to keep tension on the chain so it doesn`t spap. The same setup would work on briggs if they were in line.
 

Oldsalt

Well-Known Member
#12
I`ve thought about hooking to 5 horse briggs together. I would probably use a #41 to connect the engines and put a clutch on the jackshaft.
I take it you mean to place one engine infront or the other. "V" belts will work. Useing 3L or A section belts the sheaves would have to be around 4 inches pitch diameter to handle the torque to be expected from the two engines. The slippage in the V belts will be an advantage not a problem. The toothed belts are not all that expevsive but the belt sprockets are really expensive. So unless you wish to spend a lot of extra loot use V belts. Stay away from chain for coupling the engines together. It will be nothing but trouble.
 

Oldsalt

Well-Known Member
#17
Let`s be civil and agree to dis-agree. If I build a twin engine mini I`ll use chains.
Iron Horse

I'm not attempting to be uncivil. Honest. Just speaking from experiance redarding multi engine cycles. The first was many years ago when a friend and I decided to streach the frame on a early Royal Enfield 500 thumper and install a second engine. We used a HD 45 trans that only used 2nd and 3rd gears. Drag bike. [It was pretty slow for a full liter of displacement]. Clutch and chains turned out to be the problem. We solved it. Chains will work. The higher output the engine the more senseable it is to use chains. One problem would be that the cog belt would get rather wide as the torque went up. Agreed.

However if we are talking about a couple of Briggs motors the situation changes. The pictured triple engine mini originally had chains. I should have known better than to try. Could have make it work with a lot of trouble. The cure would be splined output shafts. Stock Briggs have a simple keyway. Splines will handle 'reversing' forces that will certinally be there. A simple key will handle reversing toruque only very poorly. Lock-Tite, Shaft-Tite, double and triple set screws...nothing would last more than minutes. I took everything off and threw it on the floor and used belts with perfect results. The slip and give of a V belt drive softens up the back and forth problem. Harley engines have splined output shafts. [A 41 Harley has a tapered output shaft but everything later carried splines].
 
#18
Iron Horse

I'm not attempting to be uncivil. Honest. Just speaking from experiance redarding multi engine cycles. The first was many years ago when a friend and I decided to streach the frame on a early Royal Enfield 500 thumper and install a second engine. We used a HD 45 trans that only used 2nd and 3rd gears. Drag bike. [It was pretty slow for a full liter of displacement]. Clutch and chains turned out to be the problem. We solved it. Chains will work. The higher output the engine the more senseable it is to use chains. One problem would be that the cog belt would get rather wide as the torque went up. Agreed.

However if we are talking about a couple of Briggs motors the situation changes. The pictured triple engine mini originally had chains. I should have known better than to try. Could have make it work with a lot of trouble. The cure would be splined output shafts. Stock Briggs have a simple keyway. Splines will handle 'reversing' forces that will certinally be there. A simple key will handle reversing toruque only very poorly. Lock-Tite, Shaft-Tite, double and triple set screws...nothing would last more than minutes. I took everything off and threw it on the floor and used belts with perfect results. The slip and give of a V belt drive softens up the back and forth problem. Harley engines have splined output shafts. [A 41 Harley has a tapered output shaft but everything later carried splines].
Basically that was my concern. I was thinking a rubber belt might be better with all the pushing and pulling going on.:scooter:

I would think that using a v-belt would require some good tensioners........
 
#19
Iron Horse

I'm not attempting to be uncivil. Honest. Just speaking from experiance redarding multi engine cycles. The first was many years ago when a friend and I decided to streach the frame on a early Royal Enfield 500 thumper and install a second engine. We used a HD 45 trans that only used 2nd and 3rd gears. Drag bike. [It was pretty slow for a full liter of displacement]. Clutch and chains turned out to be the problem. We solved it. Chains will work. The higher output the engine the more senseable it is to use chains. One problem would be that the cog belt would get rather wide as the torque went up. Agreed.

However if we are talking about a couple of Briggs motors the situation changes. The pictured triple engine mini originally had chains. I should have known better than to try. Could have make it work with a lot of trouble. The cure would be splined output shafts. Stock Briggs have a simple keyway. Splines will handle 'reversing' forces that will certinally be there. A simple key will handle reversing toruque only very poorly. Lock-Tite, Shaft-Tite, double and triple set screws...nothing would last more than minutes. I took everything off and threw it on the floor and used belts with perfect results. The slip and give of a V belt drive softens up the back and forth problem. Harley engines have splined output shafts. [A 41 Harley has a tapered output shaft but everything later carried splines].
I didn`t mean to imply that you were being uncivil, I just want to masintain civility. I`ve seen nasty arguments over hot rodding theories.
You raise an interestring point about Harley switching from a tapered shaft to splines. The introduction of the splined shaft coincides with the introduction of the " Compensationg Sprocket" or " Compensator" in the vernacular. I`ve been running the idea around in the back of my mind about trying to build a torque compensatimg sprocket for mini-bike apps to smooth out drive train vibrations.
 

Oldsalt

Well-Known Member
#20
Basically that was my concern. I was thinking a rubber belt might be better with all the pushing and pulling going on.:scooter:

I would think that using a v-belt would require some good tensioners........
If I were doing it I'd stay away from belt tensioners. If put on the outside of the V belt they are known in the field as 'belt breakers' because V belts, and a lot of other belts, were never ment to be bent backwards. If on the inside it'd be OK but I didn't need them on my muti Briggs engine set-up. If the jackshaft is fixed [no fore and aft adjustment] the rear axle will have to move in a slot and adjusters will be needed. I know you realize that but maybe that is the place for a chain tensioner. Chains don't mind idlers and that might be easier than adjusting the rear axle. I used parts off a Honda 70 so the axle could be adjusted but I probably won't do that again. The engine bolt slots for both engines will have to be sorta long in comparison to the amount needed if chains were being used. I was able to get away with just useing slots, but no tensioners, so maybe you can too.

Have you decided on how to start the bad boy? Pull both ropes at once? That won't work too good unless you got a helper. But I suppose pulling just one rope will get the job done. I've never tried it. I cheated and mounted an electric starter.

Throttle cables can also become a pain but I know you can do that.

As a Briggs commonly blows its exhaust straight back the first engine will be blowing smoke on the second. I mounted some curved pipes to avoid that.

The minibike frame will be getting kinda long to accomodate the two engines and the jackshaft. I decided to use thin wall 1" X 2" rectangular tube as the bottom frame rails thinking that the usual material, 7/8" or 1" OD tube, would be too weak. Didn't do no 'finite element anaylisis' or any other high zoot stuff but I'm thinking you should look at that regidity issue.

Good Luck!
 
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