"Just for fun" Class Tote Gote Nova 780
Thank you Tippy. I got this my first welder a year and a half ago. It's a Lincoln 140 using .023 solid wire and argon/oxygen mix gas. It is heavy enough for mini bike work.
It's still not easy, and I am no where near "good" at using it. Adequate perhaps, if I do enough grinding and re-welding.
My goal is to do a weld good enough to post a photo of it here "before" grinding. :laugh:
It's still not easy, and I am no where near "good" at using it. Adequate perhaps, if I do enough grinding and re-welding.
My goal is to do a weld good enough to post a photo of it here "before" grinding. :laugh:
An overview of the location of the sub frame. I found a tank, and fashioned a seat base. Seat base uses a set of sliders about mid-frame, and a front mounted tab. At this point, I am not sure if I will go with a single seat, or two seats.
The left end of the sub frame unbolts for removing the rear wheel. The front of the sub frame rests on a pair of rubber bushings.
Front seat mount. Using the mid-frame sliders, the front seat is designed to be removed with this single 1/4-20. This allows access to the top of the engine. This mount is offset 1/4 inch, so seat base can sit on the frame.
I had to fabricate all of those mounts, as they are proprietary like the rest of the machine.
The left end of the sub frame unbolts for removing the rear wheel. The front of the sub frame rests on a pair of rubber bushings.
Front seat mount. Using the mid-frame sliders, the front seat is designed to be removed with this single 1/4-20. This allows access to the top of the engine. This mount is offset 1/4 inch, so seat base can sit on the frame.
I had to fabricate all of those mounts, as they are proprietary like the rest of the machine.
SWEET! I had recently seen a build where someone is making a kart (just a pull around type for swapmeet runs) out of a wagon/flyer... got my crazy mind thinking and i wanted a kart, but with a vtwin motor... was stopped there because i wanted a drive shaft type deal so that i could put the motor up front (and keep it all clean underneath the chassis to the rear drive)... then i saw this worm drive on your build...
said all this to say that, now i either want a custom worm drive setup, or a tote goat... dont need either! lol...
Cool build Dave!
said all this to say that, now i either want a custom worm drive setup, or a tote goat... dont need either! lol...
Cool build Dave!
Thanks Gerry. This worm drive is 10:1 ratio. The shaft is turned via a sideways motor turning a TAV essentially. Rated top speed is 28 MPH.
These worm drives are bullet proof. With a wagon, you could run very small power, and an open worm drive. That wagon by the way has better steering than my go kart has. :thumbsup:
These worm drives are bullet proof. With a wagon, you could run very small power, and an open worm drive. That wagon by the way has better steering than my go kart has. :thumbsup:
Sweet... Ill have to bounce some ideas off of you, when i get to that point... i dont need another project right now, but for some reason i cant get my eyes off this 18 hp horizontal shaft briggs.... want to put it with the flywheel facing the front and the shaft to the rear... and a tunnel with some sort of small chromoly driveshaft... i will pm you when the time comes about it... so i dont clutter your thread with craziness... lol
Last edited:
You are making good progress on this goat Dave........like how you did the seat....too bad you cant put a small area there for tools.......it must be nice to have all day to tinker.......im jealous....
:thumbsup:
:thumbsup:
There will be a stash area. For tools I mean. I was also considering making an optional rear cooler area that would fit where the rear seat is. Like an accessory. Because 28 MPH is more fun with a cooler.
Between long drives to see family, and a case of N1H1 or the Bubonic Plague, I managed to get a couple of things done. I forgot the roll of shitpaper, but with this disease I contracted, I had a wad of snot rag in my bathrobe pocket that shows up in two of the three photos.
I do appreciate the nice comments, however I appreciate NOT hearing the comments from the fluffy strokers, or their buddies, :thefinger: or accolades for my shitty welds, judicious use of paint stripper and snappy passes with a Makita angle grinder. :grind:
Tank is stripped, etched, and sealed with Ken's sealer. It really didn't need it, but with an old tank and solder sealant, it couldn't hurt. I took my time with this, and maybe for the first time, it will actually work.
Soaked the wheels over night in a 1:4 mix of muratic acid/water, then soda ash and water, sanded, stripped, etching primer and a coat of rust prohibitor paint. Tires are on the way. Carlisle 5.70 rear, and 4.80 front. Original sizes, but rear will be more "trail friendly."
This is my second try at the center stand. Though I did have some measurements taken of another stand by a member, those dimensions didn't work on the 780. I ordered the wrong size of tubing, and spent a day notching and welding, only to realize I'd put the cross piece in the way of the rear wheel.
Shown upside down, this is the second try, using what I had left over, as well as cannibalized pieces from the first try. I'll hit it with the welder again and figure out the spring return geometry and weld that together. After I return the wrong spring to ACE.
This is proving to be one of the more tedious builds I've done, because I really don't know what I'm doing, and keep forgetting to turn on the argon/o2 tank.
I do appreciate the nice comments, however I appreciate NOT hearing the comments from the fluffy strokers, or their buddies, :thefinger: or accolades for my shitty welds, judicious use of paint stripper and snappy passes with a Makita angle grinder. :grind:
Tank is stripped, etched, and sealed with Ken's sealer. It really didn't need it, but with an old tank and solder sealant, it couldn't hurt. I took my time with this, and maybe for the first time, it will actually work.
Soaked the wheels over night in a 1:4 mix of muratic acid/water, then soda ash and water, sanded, stripped, etching primer and a coat of rust prohibitor paint. Tires are on the way. Carlisle 5.70 rear, and 4.80 front. Original sizes, but rear will be more "trail friendly."
This is my second try at the center stand. Though I did have some measurements taken of another stand by a member, those dimensions didn't work on the 780. I ordered the wrong size of tubing, and spent a day notching and welding, only to realize I'd put the cross piece in the way of the rear wheel.
Shown upside down, this is the second try, using what I had left over, as well as cannibalized pieces from the first try. I'll hit it with the welder again and figure out the spring return geometry and weld that together. After I return the wrong spring to ACE.
This is proving to be one of the more tedious builds I've done, because I really don't know what I'm doing, and keep forgetting to turn on the argon/o2 tank.