"Just for fun" Class Tote Gote Nova 780
One GOOD thing though, is that this ugly bastard ends up deep inside the frame, and will only be visible once the welds break and the bike falls over on it's side. :thumbsup:
Beer and cigarettes don't work for colds, so I might have to break down and snort some Nyquil. Has to be easier than cheap tequila.
Beer and cigarettes don't work for colds, so I might have to break down and snort some Nyquil. Has to be easier than cheap tequila.
I got the front fork suspension apart. Oil seals were crimped into the bottom of the tubes with 3 indentations made with a cold chisel. Those were really difficult to remove, so I could get at the seals.
Inside the seals are long metal spacers, threaded and held into the fork with set screws. Above those a smaller compression spring, all held in place with a collar set with a roll pin. That assembly then sat against a very long 15 inch compression spring.
Like the rest of the design, it's over built, proprietary, and hard to work on. CR 6741 oil seals are on order. 1.1" OD, .688 ID.
Inside the seals are long metal spacers, threaded and held into the fork with set screws. Above those a smaller compression spring, all held in place with a collar set with a roll pin. That assembly then sat against a very long 15 inch compression spring.
Like the rest of the design, it's over built, proprietary, and hard to work on. CR 6741 oil seals are on order. 1.1" OD, .688 ID.
Finally got the center stand spring figured out. It took three different mounting options, (weld and cut) on both ends to get the combination that held the stand fast against the subframe. The spring perches barely clear the outer main frame when installed. They'd only come in contact if the suspension was compressed to it's fullest extent. I'll keep it in mind.
Fork suspension assembly lay out. Note the long upper spring. This is followed by a pinned stop-block, a smaller spring, a bottom clamping block, and an oil seal. Last is the actual telescoping fork which holds the front axle. The mostly red fork assembly has already withstood two coats of paint stripper. This paint is like glue, and remains in a very porous tube. I might have to sand blast.
Fork suspension assembly lay out. Note the long upper spring. This is followed by a pinned stop-block, a smaller spring, a bottom clamping block, and an oil seal. Last is the actual telescoping fork which holds the front axle. The mostly red fork assembly has already withstood two coats of paint stripper. This paint is like glue, and remains in a very porous tube. I might have to sand blast.
It would have been a four beer job, but since they're so greasy, I didn't want to soil a perfectly good coozie.
The solid piece in the center of the parts lineup has two threaded holes on one side, and one on the other. Those hold the entire assembly in place. The little oil seal at the end of the parts lineup is held in with crimps pounded into the sides of the fork tube. Those are what took 4 beer time. I still messed up the ends, so will need to machine them later.
The solid piece in the center of the parts lineup has two threaded holes on one side, and one on the other. Those hold the entire assembly in place. The little oil seal at the end of the parts lineup is held in with crimps pounded into the sides of the fork tube. Those are what took 4 beer time. I still messed up the ends, so will need to machine them later.
Oh- I am a novice welder. There is absolutely no way I will continue to try and weld until I get a self-darkening mask. "That" is my problem. Mine is actually coated with paint.
As an aside, the "peanut gallery" is not on ignore, so no worries if you need to chime in and tell me how great my shitty welds are. :laugh:
As an aside, the "peanut gallery" is not on ignore, so no worries if you need to chime in and tell me how great my shitty welds are. :laugh:
I re-welded and repaired the bottom and top front tank mounts. The originals were cracked, misaligned, off center, rusted, and just plain wrong.
Also removed the data plate. Outline below tank, forward. I don't know what kind of rivets they used, but the metal was so hard I couldn't punch or drill it. I ended up grinding off the heads and punching the thinned metal away. I will fill the holes, and re-rivet slightly offset.
This was built with a stick welder. There are slag chunks all over, as well as welding splatter. I am slowly removing all of that. There is a stark difference in quality or neat welds between a utility scooter like this, and a Cat or Taco mini bike made to sit in a show room floor.
I forgot the shit paper again.
Also removed the data plate. Outline below tank, forward. I don't know what kind of rivets they used, but the metal was so hard I couldn't punch or drill it. I ended up grinding off the heads and punching the thinned metal away. I will fill the holes, and re-rivet slightly offset.
This was built with a stick welder. There are slag chunks all over, as well as welding splatter. I am slowly removing all of that. There is a stark difference in quality or neat welds between a utility scooter like this, and a Cat or Taco mini bike made to sit in a show room floor.
I forgot the shit paper again.
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Thank you gentlemen. I feel like I'm "reinventing the wheel" on this machine. Next is getting the engine started, and clutch and belt system working.
As discussed, the original "Climbaway" clutch is nearly impossible to source.
Here is a Nova using a Comet 44. This appears to be a straight forward installation.
Here is a Nova using a Comet 20 with a 9/16 spacer.
Edit: Comet 30 is asymmetrical and wont work.
As discussed, the original "Climbaway" clutch is nearly impossible to source.
Here is a Nova using a Comet 44. This appears to be a straight forward installation.
Here is a Nova using a Comet 20 with a 9/16 spacer.
Edit: Comet 30 is asymmetrical and wont work.
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Slid the motor in the frame. It was a rebuilt motor, but never fired. Checked for spark, didn't have any. Swapped flywheel to a slightly newer one from the same genre and got spark. Seems the flywheel with two separate magnets does not like that magnetron (pointless) ignition. The slightly newer wheel with the single magnet did the trick.
I'm now resolving fuel leak and fat running issues on the updraft carb. It's been sitting, and these things are prone to leakage anyway, at the main jet emulsion tube and bowl area. It's getting there.
I'm now resolving fuel leak and fat running issues on the updraft carb. It's been sitting, and these things are prone to leakage anyway, at the main jet emulsion tube and bowl area. It's getting there.
Rebuilt carb. Those updrafts are finicky, but stopped the leaks and got her to idle and rev. :thumbsup:
Like everything else on this machine, I had to learn something new. Flow Jet Carbs. You have to remove the high speed jet, then insert a common (flat head) bit into the hole and remove the emulsion tube "before" separating the carb bowl from the top. Otherwise, it will bend.
The emulsion tube in this case was corroded into the aluminum threads-a common problem. Had to EZ out it, but the threads were too far gone. Since I had a spare float section, I used it and the old jet and tube. But I used the stripped one with valve lapping compound (fine) to clean the seat. A leak there is common as well.
I applied both gas tape, (the yellow stuff) and plumbers sealant to the threads on the high speed jet to keep it from leaking. There is a direct passage from the float bowl to those threads, which is how the fuel gets sucked back into the upper section via the emulsion tube. Thus, the threads hold the fuel that is sitting in the bowl.
On the replacement lower bowl section is a 1/4 20 bolt that holds the air filter mechanism on to the carb, as well as a spring plate. I stripped that. For now, I used JB weld and it's holding, but later on I will install a helicoil in it.
Lastly, the separation point between the upper and lower sections is almost always warped. I tried everything to get it fair, to no avail. So I used JB weld again as a gasket sealer (paper gasket) and that leak stopped as well. All total, I was dealing with three leaks in all of the usual places these things occur.
The engine runs well, sounds smooth and well built, and has not a trace of smoke, which doesn't surprise me, since it's rebuilt. Learning curves. Next I'll figure out the throttle linkage. I removed the governor, since that's who the gotes were set up I think. I'm a bit nervous about that, and may end up hooking it back up.
Like everything else on this machine, I had to learn something new. Flow Jet Carbs. You have to remove the high speed jet, then insert a common (flat head) bit into the hole and remove the emulsion tube "before" separating the carb bowl from the top. Otherwise, it will bend.
The emulsion tube in this case was corroded into the aluminum threads-a common problem. Had to EZ out it, but the threads were too far gone. Since I had a spare float section, I used it and the old jet and tube. But I used the stripped one with valve lapping compound (fine) to clean the seat. A leak there is common as well.
I applied both gas tape, (the yellow stuff) and plumbers sealant to the threads on the high speed jet to keep it from leaking. There is a direct passage from the float bowl to those threads, which is how the fuel gets sucked back into the upper section via the emulsion tube. Thus, the threads hold the fuel that is sitting in the bowl.
On the replacement lower bowl section is a 1/4 20 bolt that holds the air filter mechanism on to the carb, as well as a spring plate. I stripped that. For now, I used JB weld and it's holding, but later on I will install a helicoil in it.
Lastly, the separation point between the upper and lower sections is almost always warped. I tried everything to get it fair, to no avail. So I used JB weld again as a gasket sealer (paper gasket) and that leak stopped as well. All total, I was dealing with three leaks in all of the usual places these things occur.
The engine runs well, sounds smooth and well built, and has not a trace of smoke, which doesn't surprise me, since it's rebuilt. Learning curves. Next I'll figure out the throttle linkage. I removed the governor, since that's who the gotes were set up I think. I'm a bit nervous about that, and may end up hooking it back up.
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Stang just sent a bunch of extra parts, almost all of which I can use. Thanks Stang, there are enough parts to put together a complete spare carburetor.
I wouldn't hesitate to do another deal with you. Motor runs sweet, now I have two carbs, plus a really cool wooden box to store parts in. :thumbsup:
I wouldn't hesitate to do another deal with you. Motor runs sweet, now I have two carbs, plus a really cool wooden box to store parts in. :thumbsup: