Just want to do it right.

#1
Have the 212 Hemi on my Tbird, and figure safer parts, if I ever remove the governor, would be wise. :thumbsup:

Take a look at my list and let me know what you think. Also have a question on valve springs.
This is a pit bike so it's not going to see drag race type rpms, just want to make sure it doesn't come apart if someone pushes it too hard.

Flywheel, ARC_6626
Rod ARC_6254
Gasket set, ARC_DJ-1305PH

I could not find a listing for the 18 pound valve springs except for ones that say non hemi. Should I use the 22 pound ones?

Anything else I should add or do while I've got it apart?

Thanks, Brad
 
#4
Is the removal of the oil sensor just so you can fit a little more oil in the crankcase?
Yeah, you pretty much have to unplug it in order to ride without the engine cutting out. But if you already have the crankcase open you might as well remove it and plug with a 5/16 inch bolt and nut with thread lock. And if you have it, put some type of sealer like rtv silicone on the inside to stop any possible leaks.

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#5
Yeah, you pretty much have to unplug it in order to ride without the engine cutting out. But if you already have the crankcase open you might as well remove it and plug with a 5/16 inch bolt and nut with thread lock. And if you have it, put some type of sealer like rtv silicone on the inside to stop any possible leaks.

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I haven't had any problems with cutting out on my bouncy go karts. RPM + ARC dipper = oil slosh?
 
#6
If you are going to do the billet parts , I would take out the governor and add a mild cam , ss valves with aluminum retainers and positive locks. I haven't ever run the 22 lbs springs but I do run the 26 lbs springs. It should make you a nice, strong and dependable lil engine. JMO
Flywheel will come with the advanced timing built in to it , and the stock carbs work great in my opinion.
 
#10
18 lb springs should be fine for what you have in mind. Will allow you to rev a little higher, which will be safe with the parts you're adding. If you run a new cam, use whatever springs that particular cam requires in their specs & you'll be good to go.
 
#11
The oil sensor is a known trouble spot on these engines. You do not remove it to add more oil, just simply to eliminate a future problem. It will cut spark in the absence of oil. So, when they go bad, you have no spark. You can simply unplug it, or as said remove it since you are going to be inside. The parts list is fine, but as [MENTION=47323]OND[/MENTION] said, adding a cam would really make it better. The MOD2 would suit that engine well.


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#12
The oil sensor is a known trouble spot on these engines. You do not remove it to add more oil, just simply to eliminate a future problem. It will cut spark in the absence of oil. So, when they go bad, you have no spark. You can simply unplug it, or as said remove it since you are going to be inside. The parts list is fine, but as [MENTION=47323]OND[/MENTION] said, adding a cam would really make it better. The MOD2 would suit that engine well.


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Are you running a clutch or CVT? It would be nice to rev a little more with a MOD2, but if you have a CVT, you gotta know how to use that rpm.

And if I'm correct, the CL1 is a hardened cam and the MOD2 is not? Obviously I would go with the hardened one. Somebody correct me if I'm talking out of my :asshole:.
 
#13
Are you running a clutch or CVT? It would be nice to rev a little more with a MOD2, but if you have a CVT, you gotta know how to use that rpm.

And if I'm correct, the CL1 is a hardened cam and the MOD2 is not? Obviously I would go with the hardened one. Somebody correct me if I'm talking out of my :asshole:.
You aren't wrong on the CL1 being hardened, it just isn't the cam I'd recommend for the application. Good point on the drive set up though! A TAV would worm well with the MOD2 but need some tweaking out of the box.


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#14
18 lb springs should be fine for what you have in mind. Will allow you to rev a little higher, which will be safe with the parts you're adding. If you run a new cam, use whatever springs that particular cam requires in their specs & you'll be good to go.
I don't like 18lb springs on a Hemi application because them being taller allows for coil bind more soon than if you had 26lb springs.
 
#15
I'm with Chad [MENTION=19339]minibikin[/MENTION]in on the Mod2 cam great lil cam with a lot of duration. I'm with [MENTION=56259]Moto Walt[/MENTION] on the 18lbs springs ...just to tall and always a chance of coil bind.

18# springs.


26# springs
 
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#17
Okay so the consensus is a cam, and 26 pound springs? For a strong reliable set up.
As for the oil sensor, yeah it's really nothing more then dead weight in my application, the T bird uses the angled engine mount with the sensor at the lowest spot. Till it kicked in there would only be a tea spoon of oil in the crankcase.

As for going fast, well I have a bad ticker, only 40% function. Doctor pulled me from the race car driver's seat this year, so the pit bike will be my only thrill seeking.

Thanks for the input!

Added to the list.
ARC_DJ-1056 Springs
DC_MOD2 Cam
 
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#18
22 lb springs are plenty with the MOD2 cam. Less strain on the valve train that way. No need to go to heavier springs than what's needed. I've been running that combo for a while in flat track racing, with no problems, with the stock retainers, valves & push rods.

https://www.OldMiniBikes.com/2-pack-of-22lb-valve-springs.html

Dyno says you can use 18 lb springs at minimum, but recommend 22 lb springs. I called & talked to them on this before building my setup.

Racing Cams and Parts | DynoCams MOD2 Grind | MOD2 | DynoCams
 
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#19
Like I've said on here before. Mod2 with 26's spinning to 9600 with a Hemi engine. Never had a valvetrain issues in 33hours on just this most recent engine.
I had 35 hours on my last one. Sold it.
 
#20
Thanks again guys. Yeah I'm just running a Max Torque clutch, actually pretty impressed with it. It was hauling two folks around without a whimper. Even on the steep hills. Only my second experience with one. First one was on a go kart. The springs were so weak on it the darn thing wouldn't idle as the shoes would try and engage as soon as you started it. Took me a while to figure that one out.

Anywho, decided to go all out on the bike. Along with the engine upgrades, she'll be getting a new color scheme, going Chameleon. It's the same color as our race car, amazing as it changes colors dependent on the angle. :thumbsup:
 

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