Kill switch install

[wjustice]

Wire is fine from switch to connector, no whiskers of wire coming out of connector and grounding out. Took the switch off checked for continuity. One lead on end of switch wire other lead on metal switch. It goes to zero when I push the switch button. Now what??

Ok, isnt that backwards? Should read zero and go full scale when you push the button. Unless Im not understanding your statement.

 

[Bbqman]

Test that kill switch for proper on-off function with an ohm meter or battery and bulb first, save yourself some aggravation!

I did just that. Switch is fine. Thanks for the idea!

 

[Bbqman]

Ok, isnt that backwards? Should read zero and go full scale when you push the button. Unless Im not understanding your statement.

Good question, in not sure. Anybody else know the answer?

 

[Mark Brooks]

Continuity on a digital meter will read "OL" when the circuit is open, no continuity, when you push the button it should read the resistance of the circuit to ground.(some number) In essence the resistance of the meter leads. That short of distance one would expect to see 0.5(+/-) when you push the button. Mind you this is what i see on a higher end meter Fluke 87. You might also have a speaker/beep function as well. "Most" any meter should show somewhere close to the same.
Hope that helps/makes sense?

 

[mustangfrank]

Good question, in not sure. Anybody else know the answer?

You tested it correctly it should be open until you push the button and then be closed or read zero ohms.

 

[Bbqman]

Continuity on a digital meter will read "OL" when the circuit is open, no continuity, when you push the button it should read the resistance of the circuit to ground.(some number) In essence the resistance of the meter leads. That short of distance one would expect to see 0.5(+/-) when you push the button. Mind you this is what i see on a higher end meter Fluke 87. You might also have a speaker/beep function as well. "Most" any meter should show somewhere close to the same.
Hope that helps/makes sense?

I have a budget model. No bells or whistles. Thank you for the input

 

[Mark Brooks]

I understand that all too well! I'm with you mines a cheapo too. Year 1913 model, Does all i need it to tho That's just what i had access to at work.
Function should be simular none the less.
Does it still not run being totally disconnected? I believe you as Mustangfrank said tested it correctly.

 

[Bbqman]

I understand that all too well! I'm with you mines a cheapo too. Year 1913 model, Does all i need it to tho That's just what i had access to at work.
Function should be simular none the less.
Does it still not run being totally disconnected? I believe you as Mustangfrank said tested it correctly.

Yes it does run without it being connected. I think it was in the connection at the points. That threaded piece in the plastic where you connect the coil and condenser to points. That threaded part I think might have turned and was not making contact with points. The is a little recess on the other side of threads and that fits in nice and flat. I think mine might have turned when I was tightening everything up and was not making a connection to points. I could be wrong but I can't think of what else it could be. I am going to try and hook switch back up and I will report back

 

[Mark Brooks]

As far as you have gone with it, tests made, results gotten, it's gotta be something simple.

 

[Bbqman]

As far as you have gone with it, tests made, results gotten, it's gotta be something simple.

I will let you all know soon

 

[Bbqman]

I will let you all know soon

Well it worked. Had to be the piece that the coil and condenser connect to at the points. Now problem number 2. I will open a new thread, thanks everyone. I really appreciate the help