Kill switch + key Ignition Predator 212 Engine

#1
First off, i'm not sure if this is in the right section (mods please move if so) but I ordered a keyed ignition with an on and off to mount on the blower housing then run the cable strait down and out the bottom and along the outside of the bottom of the engine to the old kill switch area. I also bought a doodle bug kill switch that I can use to kill the engine from the handle bars. I know there is a thread on what is the point of this but I just want to add a little security incase somebody wants to steal it or take a ride when not allowed as our garage is open a lot and there is nowhere to chain it or lock it. I'm not really sure how to connect the cables/wires as a circuit. Does anybody know how this could be done? I don't have the parts yet and just wanted to get an idea. Any diagrams/ drawings or ideas are welcome. Thanks!
 
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#3
Patience Grasshopper.... If you are mounting the key switch in the blower housing just use it to interrupt the coil wire. Then the wire going out to the kill switch will just look normal. Key on, everything is normal. Key off, everything is dead. Does that help?
 
#4
I'm not really sure how to connect the cables/wires as a circuit. Does anybody know how this could be done? I don't have the parts yet and just wanted to get an idea. Any diagrams/ drawings or ideas are welcome. Thanks!
There is a wire from the igntion coil that goes to the original kill switch and low oil sensor if you have one. When the switch is in the "off" position or low oil level is sensed, either switch will complete the circuit to ground, grounding out the ignition.

You are going to hook up your two switches to the ignition coil the same way. You want either the key in off or the pushbutton to complete the circuit to ground.
 
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CarPlayLB

Well-Known Member
#5
the problem here is that most keyed switches are an open circuit when off and closed in the run position. If you find a keyed switch that allows the key to come out in the run position you'll be fine.
 
#6
the problem here is that most keyed switches are an open circuit when off and closed in the run position. If you find a keyed switch that allows the key to come out in the run position you'll be fine.
?? Any garden tractor or snowblower keyed switch is grounded in the off position and open circuit in run. Hopefully that is the type of switch he is buying.

A garden tractor switch is way more complicated than he needs but it would work. Only needs terminals 1 & 3.
 
#7
Thanks guys for the responses, I will update how it works out when I get the parts (they won't arrive until June 21) Should I just disconnect the low oil sensor to make it less complex. I change my oil regularly so I should be fine without it.
 
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CarPlayLB

Well-Known Member
#8
Thanks guys for the responses, I will update how it works out when I get the parts (they won't arrive until June 21) Should I just disconnect the low oil sensor to make it less complex. I change my oil regularly so I should be fine without it.
Yes. Disconnect the low oil sensor...it causes some issues on minibikes anyhow!

what switch did you get?
 

george3

Active Member
#9
You are adding a keyed kill switch. The wires are exposed so if you unplug the switch it will start. connections will have to be under the blower housing. Bolt an anchor to the garage wall and run a cable and lock on it.
 
#12
Well you guys were right I wired it up and it worked opposite. Good thing it was free! However I found another one that is free and the key can be removed from either positions. Would that work?

http://www.te.com/usa-en/product-2-1437597-3.html#pdp-docs-features
 
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#18
So this thread got me thinking, and I ordered a keyswitch off feebay to play around with:

1x Universal Motorcycle Ignition Switch Key for Honda Yamaha Kawasaki Suzuki KTM | eBay

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Just two positions, OFF and ON. Key can only be removed in OFF.

Two sets of contacts though, a normally open set and a normally closed set.

When the key is in OFF or removed, the green and white wires complete a circuit. Connect one to your ignition coil and the other to ground, just like a killswitch. The other two wires are open circuited (black & red.)

When the key is in ON, the green & white wires are open, allowing the engine to run. The black & red wires complete a circuit. Maybe you have a set of lights or something you want to come on with the key. Or you don't have to hook up the black & red wires at all.

It would be pretty cool on a custom build or for added security like the OP started the thread about. And it was less than $2 shipped. I just thought I would share :thumbsup:
 
#19
Airplanes, the ones with piston engines have magnetos. Two of them in fact. When the key is in the on position the mags are ungrounded, turn it off, now grounded.

A few years ago there was an AD (airworthiness directive) that required owners of aircraft with a certain model of "magneto switch" to be replaced. What I am saying is that go to your local GA airport (no pax, no jets) find an aircraft repair shop and ask for an old mag switch. Bet that the have a box of them that are of no use on aircraft, but would be just fine on your minibike. Bet the price would be really right. (free?) Aircraft mag switches usually have five positions, Off, Left, Right, Both and Start. That would confuse them... In the back there are four terminals, one for ground,the left mag, the right mag and the starter. um...sometimes there is a terminal for the battery to engage the starter. All you need to do is connect ground and one (L or R) terminal and you are good to go.

- Just a thought.

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