Larger more tooth replacement jackshaft sprocket for a 1971 Rupp Roadster 2

GustoGuy

GustoGuy

Well-Known Member
#21
#21
Minimichael said:
Thanks, I'll look at that fork. Yes I'm worried about the rupp with a 196. I'm too old for wheelies! Btw I'm already extending the rear wheel back about 4" inches for just this reason. I attached a pic of the mock-up. My plan B is to swap out the built 200 with a stock gx160... And there's also the question of how the rider's gonna sit - probably leaning slightly forward...
Click to expand...
Very cool. I like how you used metal bar exactly the width of the Rupp swingarm to fit in-between the opening of the U shape bend. The 4 inch extension will definitely reduce the risk of wheelies. I may copy this if the 11 tooth jackshaft sprocket doesn't dampen the acceleration.
 
Minimichael

Minimichael

Well-Known Member
#22
#22
GustoGuy said:
Very cool. I like how you used metal bar exactly the width of the Rupp swingarm to fit in-between the opening of the U shape bend. The 4 inch extension will definitely reduce the risk of wheelies. I may copy this if the 11 tooth jackshaft sprocket doesn't dampen the acceleration.
Click to expand...
Then between the slower sprocket, the swing arm extension, and the position sensor switch, it'll be the safest minibike no kid on the block ever gets to ride... :p
 
2old2care

2old2care

Active Member
#23
#23
Minimichael said:
Thanks, I'll look at that fork. Yes I'm worried about the rupp with a 196. I'm too old for wheelies! Btw I'm already extending the rear wheel back about 4" inches for just this reason. I attached a pic of the mock-up. My plan B is to swap out the built 200 with a stock gx160... And there's also the question of how the rider's gonna sit - probably leaning slightly forward...
Click to expand...
I like your shop lighting :~)
 
Minimichael

Minimichael

Well-Known Member
#25
#25
Last edited:
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desert rat

Well-Known Member
#26
#26
I beleave you have a telescoping front end. Place a L bracket on the upper portion using a hose clamp (you don't want this permanent). Replace the spring with a piece of pull cable like what is inside your control cables. You can use the crimp end from a wire connector as a crimp band to put a loop in the ends. Attach the other end of the cable to the lower part of the fork with a hose clamp. Adjust to make contact at full extension of the forks. The problem with this is it going to "bunny hop" on you = it will refire the motor when it hits the ground and come right back up. But it will kill the motor out right when it's on it's side.
 
Minimichael

Minimichael

Well-Known Member
#28
#28
GustoGuy

GustoGuy

Well-Known Member
#29
#29
Well. I painted my rear fender and thanks to Supeman's high-speed seat pan of attack unfortunately the rear fender doesn't line up as good as it once did. Seems to have pushed the seat over towards the left about 1/4 inch further than it once was. I guess I will drill out the mounting holes on the fender license plate adapter to allow me some movement to line it up better. How many people here have let people ride their bike only to have them wipe out on it? The bike seems to track down the road and to ride ok. So it must not have significantly affected the frame
 
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