LED bulb conversion?

#1
I've read several posts where some guys have replaced the stock incandescent bulb on a Warrior with an LED. However, I haven't yet seen a clean and easy conversion. One where there wasn't major hacking up of the housing.. Does such a thing exist?
 
#2
I'm adding another headlight... and these little one on my forks... went with the smart tail light...


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#4
I've done largely the same thing. I added an auxiliary battery powered Led light up front. It certainly does the trick but I was hoping to get some real light out of the stock headlight bucket itself. BTW, I've also added battery powered rest lighting as well.
 
#6
I convert my headlight buckets to LED's. Some have replaceable bulbs which you can get LED replacements for on ebay cheap from china. They work great and draw very little power so the battery lasts a long time. You can also get the taillight bulbs in led as well. I have also converted seald beam 6 volt bulbs to led by using a 1" glass drill from home depot to drill out the back and install a led bulb. I have pics but the my photos button is currently not working.
 
#7
I convert my headlight buckets to LED's. Some have replaceable bulbs which you can get LED replacements for on ebay cheap from china. They work great and draw very little power so the battery lasts a long time. You can also get the taillight bulbs in led as well. I have also converted seald beam 6 volt bulbs to led by using a 1" glass drill from home depot to drill out the back and install a led bulb. I have pics but the my photos button is currently not working.
Ole, your photos will work if they are in your photo section under a particular heading. I recall the photos.

You mentioned the use of a battery on your LED conversion. If they're using incandescent lamps on production machines, they may be using them directly from their engine-driven AC magnetos. If LED's are wired this way, they will exhibit a frequency-driven flicker, as well as poor illumination at lower RPM unless a battery is used.

In this case, it is preferable that the magneto becomes a battery charger, and in some cases, will require a voltage regulator and in all cases a rectifier.

Or the magneto is discarded/not used, and a LiPo, etc. is used to power lamps, and recharged from a wall socket.

Old news, but we have a lot of new people here these days.

EDIT: Here is the link to Ole's most excellent write up on DIY LED Lighting.

https://www.oldminibikes.com/forum/...-diy-led-lighting.html?highlight=LED+headlamp
 
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#8
Just ordered an LED bulb on eBay from China. 12 volt, 100 watt. Same style and size base as stock and the overall bulb size and shape is also the same as stock. Any thoughts on whether this bulb would work in my Baja? The stock incandescent bulb is 12 volts and 35 watts. I have no idea whether a 100 watt bulb (it is led) will work ..
 
#9
Ole, your photos will work if they are in your photo section under a particular heading. I recall the photos.

You mentioned the use of a battery on your LED conversion. If they're using incandescent lamps on production machines, they may be using them directly from their engine-driven AC magnetos. If LED's are wired this way, they will exhibit a frequency-driven flicker, as well as poor illumination at lower RPM unless a battery is used.

In this case, it is preferable that the magneto becomes a battery charger, and in some cases, will require a voltage regulator and in all cases a rectifier.

Or the magneto is discarded/not used, and a LiPo, etc. is used to power lamps, and recharged from a wall socket.

Old news, but we have a lot of new people here these days.

EDIT: Here is the link to Ole's most excellent write up on DIY LED Lighting.

https://www.oldminibikes.com/forum/...-diy-led-lighting.html?highlight=LED+headlamp
i am one of thise new people (though i am oldish) :) i have a ct200u ontheway but wondered about adding some led's like i did to my v strom... anyway the link above is dead or doesn't work (for me) and am wondering how to accomplish this other than the battery bike light idea..... (maybe thats the best way too) ..?
 
#11
Ignore the first picture I am just learning how to use this new software. Second pic shows full wave bridge rectifier. the black box after it is just to put a electrolytic cap across the + - to add some smoothing but not really necessary unless you bulb shows flicker.
 
#12
Ignore the first picture I am just learning how to use this new software. Second pic shows full wave bridge rectifier. the black box after it is just to put a electrolytic cap across the + - to add some smoothing but not really necessary unless you bulb shows flicker.
Thanks :)
 
#13
Since the Coleman does not have lights and the Predator does not have a charging coil, I just went with a gel motorcycle battery to run the LED's.
Battery box is nothing more then a recipe box I found at Wally World. Bolted to the fuel tank mounts with a pair of aluminum angles. Now I have head/tail/brake lamps.
getting there.jpg
 
#14
light wiring diagram MB200(3).png
Here is a rough wiring diagram for the light circuit on the MB200 (Baja Warrior 200). Can you walk me through how to integrate the rectifier? NOTES: The blue wire from the headlight terminates at the connector (nothing connects to it). I don't see an apparent ground in this circuit. UPDATE: Ground exists at the green wire coming off the light. UPDATE 2: this diagram is incorrect. Please refer to the diagram I have posted later in this thread for the correct wiring.
 
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#16
These are what I use for led lights for the motors that do not have charging or lighting coils. Come from ebay, li-ion and comes with a charger and on off switch on the battery pack.
 
#17
View attachment 236170
Here is a rough wiring diagram for the light circuit on the MB200 (Baja Warrior 200). Can you walk me through how to integrate the rectifier? NOTES: The blue wire from the headlight terminates at the connector (nothing connects to it). I don't see an apparent ground in this circuit. UPDATE: Ground exists at the green wire coming off the light.
Looking at your diagram, the bottom Y (yellow?) wire from the engine appears to be the ground. It feeds to one side of the switch on the
(yellow?) wire. When the switch is turned on, the ground comes out of the switch on the W (white?) wire. It connects via the plug and the W (white?) jumper wire to the Green wire going to the light. The top yellow wire from the engine appears to be the power feed to the light. I would think the unused Blue wire would have been used if the light had both a high and low beam bulb vs just a low beam bulb.

Take a look at this video, shows installing the rectifier/regulator on a Baja.
 
#20
^ I'd double check that green wire coming off the light for ground by operating that light switch off and on, to make sure you lose the ground. If not, you have two magnetos, and ground a leg will burn it out.

No MFGR is going to intermix a color code like that. Yellow should be the AC. No electrician/engineer would/should wire a series lighting system using the ground as the switch.

The schematic that Detasman just posted looks more like it. I'd verify all of this with a meter though. As far as the single diode question to deal with half wave rectification, make sure the line on the diode is biased towards the DC load. IE the light bulb.

Here is a link to the Pardue Brothers. Jon is a member here, and used to be more active, but he's done a lot of work in this area. Very easy to talk to, hell of a nice guy. Tell him Havasu Dave sent you. https://parduebrothers.com/product/tecumseh-dc-headlight-wiring/
 
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