Alright you folks know how we ride our mini bikes. Blasting off road. Impromptu drag races. The occasional top speed blast. I am looking for a general ballpark recommendation on flywheel weight. My base knowledge suggests lightest is best but that's in multi cylinder applications. I was originally looking at the ARC 6602-PH 1.75lb flywheel but now I'm thinking the Ambush 2.75lb might be better for all around use. What are your thoughts and inputs on the subject (real experiences would be a huge plus rather than conjecture)?
Let's talk flywheels
- Thread starter shadowfocus603
- Start date
I like the stock GX160 aluminum flywheel. They are about 2lbs lighter than stock and are only $40. The only time I would run a billet flywheel is if I was getting one to run the brigs PVL coil so I could have a rev limiter at hight RPM. The weight being good or bad, spending an extra $60 is not worth it to me. I just need a flywheel that's not going to explode.
[MENTION=56207]DeadPixel[/MENTION] I'm right with you. Seems just about all of the youtube gods instantly go to the ARC flywheels and then a MOD2:doah:. The ARC flywheels are too good for most backyard builds, not to mention too expensive. I wasn't too familiar with the GX160 flywheel when I purchased my PVL cast flywheel but I love it. Flywheel weight reduction is overrated unless you are serious into shaving split seconds. I prefer to avoid wallet weight reduction.
Ya I agree. There are some instances were it would be beneficial to lighten. But all I want to do is ditch the governor. I would love to see a test though of weights in real life done though. Not on a dyno but different types of riding. I am guessing there is an ideal weight based on rpm as a lighter flywheel will have less energy stored and discharged it faster and heaver storing more and having more time to discharge it at low RPM. I can't tell a difference in mine over stock at low speed. I think it helps at higher RPM but I also advanced my timing 5* over stock and did some other mods. I just ordered a second coleman ct200 so maybe I will get a chance to test this out this year. I am doubting that 2 lbs will make a difference I can feel in the 2000-5000 rpm range.
Flywheel weight has no bearing on the engine output, but it does affect how much power reaches the ground when the engine is accelerating. A heavier flywheel stores more energy so less reaches the ground when the engine is trying to make it spin faster, but it also has more energy to release when the engine is slowing down. This makes the engine easier to pull start, idle more smoothly, and makes it less prone to stalling.
Case in point: I removed the flywheel from an OLD iron flathead Briggs that had ignition separate from the flywheel. It was hard as heck to start, always kicked really hard, and would barely idle at 2500rpm.
LOL, so you picked another stock one designed for 3600rpm.
Case in point: I removed the flywheel from an OLD iron flathead Briggs that had ignition separate from the flywheel. It was hard as heck to start, always kicked really hard, and would barely idle at 2500rpm.
LOL, so you picked another stock one designed for 3600rpm.
No I picked one made of aluminum that's good to 10K that's not going to damage my motor when I bypass the governor. It's a $40 flywheel. The extra money would be better spent on other parts. The timings not as advanced as an aftermarket flywheel but that's an easy fix. I just don't see the cost to performance benefit to a $100 flywheel.