Modified Stage 2 Predator 212 Hard to Pull Start and Mikuni 22mm Running Rich

#21
No on Mikunis putting the clip up on the needle makes it leaner, and I’ve been working on it every day since I realized there was something wrong. Because nothing else is working I might have to open up the side cover again anyway so I’ll check then.
 
#22
No on Mikunis putting the clip up on the needle makes it leaner, and I’ve been working on it every day since I realized there was something wrong. Because nothing else is working I might have to open up the side cover again anyway so I’ll check then.
Ahh yes you are right I was thinking you raised the needle :) I'd still look to make sure you dont have oil or gas pooling on the piston.
 

GustoGuy

Well-Known Member
#24
Check valve lash. Use a feeler guage and adjust the valve lash to the correct clearances. Too much valve lash will make the engine even kick back when attempting to pull start it.
 
#26
Taylor from GoPowerSports answered my email and told me to make the coil gap .06” because the magnets are super strong in the billet flywheel. After that I got it to start! And then it died and won’t start again. :rolleyes: It’s ripping the pull cord out of my hand again. I noticed there was gas dripping from the gasket between the Mikuni manifold and the head, so I pulled off the carb and this is what I was greeted with!! I ordered a few gasket for that and also some others just to have on hand. I really hope this fixes everything!! I’m going camping this weekend so I’ll have to wait until I get back to see if it’ll work. Thanks everybody for your help!! FF131CB6-42B9-486C-81C9-3EE09A3FDC1E.jpeg 5428790B-6B5B-4FE4-A215-443AD9C0B74F.jpeg
 
#27
I do have one more question though-are there two magnets on the ARC billet flywheel 6696? My feeler gauge was only attracted to the magnet that had the two indented lines in it that indicate timing, but not the other black strip.
 

delray

Well-Known Member
#30
after you figure out how to start it and all. you will want to check your plug when riding it real hard. for example that cam is good to 6500+
run the bike right up to 6500+ and then kill the motor and try to set your self up to coast back where you can pull the plug out. at this point you will be able to see the correct color. otherwise everytime you pull the plug out after you sat and idled, it will be BLACK. goodluck...:scooter:
 
#31
My engine isn’t even getting up that high because of the torque converter, so I’m waiting until the juggernaut is back in stock, and then I’m gonna do a real test. I’ve only clocked it at 4480 rpms so far.
 
#32
after you figure out how to start it and all. you will want to check your plug when riding it real hard. for example that cam is good to 6500+
run the bike right up to 6500+ and then kill the motor and try to set your self up to coast back where you can pull the plug out. at this point you will be able to see the correct color. otherwise everytime you pull the plug out after you sat and idled, it will be BLACK. goodluck...:scooter:
So if I take off the front torque converter pulley that would let the engine spin freely right? Maybe I’ll do that in the mean time before the juggernaut is back in stock.
 
#35
Gasket material is cheap to buy. you cut out a rectangle of the material and lay it over the intake manifold. You then use a small ball-peen hammer ( ball end) and tap the open spots under the gasket material. you cut a new gasket that fits in seconds.
Been doing that for 60 years now.
 

SAS289

Well-Known Member
#37
My engine isn’t even getting up that high because of the torque converter, so I’m waiting until the juggernaut is back in stock, and then I’m gonna do a real test. I’ve only clocked it at 4480 rpms so far.
What RPM do you expect to see with the Juggernaut? What RPM would you consider an acceptable improvement with the Juggernaut?
 
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