Modified Stage 2 Predator 212 Hard to Pull Start and Mikuni 22mm Running Rich

#61
do you have a dial indicator? Or good eyesight? you can check for correct operation of the CR. If you have a compression tester that will also tell you if it is working. I am assuming that you have exhaust lash set correctly. There have been multiple threads here on this very subject and in all of them the OP was not adjusting the lash on the base circle of the cam instead adjusting lash on the CR lobe. In your case it maybe the CR is broken. Let us know if you have any of the above three items and we can debug from there.
I don’t have a dial indicator or compression tester but I have 20/20 vision lol. Where do I need to look and what do I need to do?
 
#62
As you approach BDC of intake stroke and piston starts coming up on compression ( you can use a piece of welding rod or a thin screwdriver thru spark plug hole to watch piston movement) you should see intake close (you should be able to spin pushrod between thumb and forefinger) as piston starts rising the exhaust should open about .010 and you should not be able to spin exhaust pushrod between thumb and forefinger. As piston gets close to TDC then exhaust should close and now Exhaust pushrod should spin And there should be lash. Do that check and it should determine if cr is broke or you don’t have lash set Correctly.
 
#63
As you approach BDC of intake stroke and piston starts coming up on compression ( you can use a piece of welding rod or a thin screwdriver thru spark plug hole to watch piston movement) you should see intake close (you should be able to spin pushrod between thumb and forefinger) as piston starts rising the exhaust should open about .010 and you should not be able to spin exhaust pushrod between thumb and forefinger. As piston gets close to TDC then exhaust should close and now Exhaust pushrod should spin And there should be lash. Do that check and it should determine if cr is broke or you don’t have lash set Correctly.
Okay, I’ll do that tomorrow. Any ideas on the oil leak? I can’t find it:confused: When I opened up the side cover to install the new parts, I noticed that the ends of the mounting holes for a torque converter/clutch were broken off. So my stupid self decided to loctite my torque converter mounting bolts in, not realizing that it would prevent me from opening up the side cover again. I’m thinking that might be the leak, but I have no way of fixing it, I don’t think. I read that you have to heat red loctite to 500 degrees to get it to come undone? Is that bad for the engine?
 
#64
Okay, I’ll do that tomorrow. Any ideas on the oil leak? I can’t find it:confused: When I opened up the side cover to install the new parts, I noticed that the ends of the mounting holes for a torque converter/clutch were broken off. So my stupid self decided to loctite my torque converter mounting bolts in, not realizing that it would prevent me from opening up the side cover again. I’m thinking that might be the leak, but I have no way of fixing it, I don’t think. I read that you have to heat red loctite to 500 degrees to get it to come undone? Is that bad for the engine?
The bottom left one was cracked but still holding on, so I used a punch and knocked it off too.
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