More problems in Taco land ...

[race]

So I am getting around to the jack shaft area. The rolling Taco 44 chassis came with a jack shaft bearing still in the left side and nothing in the right side. Figured I would replace them both. Got some new snap ring 5/8" bearings from Azusa. Tapped out the old bearing on the left side - it was a nice tight fit. Tested a new bearing on the right side and it is a rather loose fit. I can wiggle it enough to make a sound against the bearing holder / frame.

Took some pics and both sides are not exactly perfectly round, but at least the left side is a tight fit. On the right side I was able to slip a .013 feeler gauge between the bearing and the bearing holder / frame.

Soooo Googling around I have seen some possible solutions mentioned -

1. Use a small punch at several points around the bearing holder / frame to distort some metal and then Loctite the bearing in. Not crazy about this idea.

2. Try to find a slight oversize bearing that will fit tight. Have not been able to look yet.

3. I saw these things mentioned somewhere but know nothing about them - https://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/118/1163 Scroll down to Ball Bearing Shim Rings. Anyone have experience with these?

4. While on the Azusa site I saw the BEARING HANGER part they sell. See https://azusaparts.com/product/bear...38-id-x-3-od-with-2-mounting-edge-x-14-thick/ . It occurred to me that I could just have one of these welded right next to the existing bearing holder / frame. Could even do both sides. That would give me a nice round tight fit on both sides.

Would be open to what you all think. I know solution #4 is sacrilege to mess with the original frame but it would be the strongest solution.



Is this a common problem on these old frames?

 

[Havasu Dave]

I would not hesitate to shim them, since you painted the frame already. I've always made my own wheel bearing shims from thin shim stock. Cut with scissors, easy job.

The method of using a punch applies to aluminum wheels, and it's success is based on the amount of wear. The loc tite you read about was 620, a green color made specifically for mounting bearings that are press fitted, but will work with the press fit is looser. It also works to stabilize the shim. It is not the "thread lock" stuff.

It would have been very simple to run a couple of short, tiny beads inside the hanger, then trim, before painting. You would not need to weld on a bearing hangar.

Do not use epoxy like JB Weld, and when using a shim, it is critical to ensure there is no lateral movement on the bearing.

Final thoughts- It may be very difficult to affix the shim so that it remains on one side of the bearing. You will need to pay attention to run-out once you have the jack shaft assembled. Repairing a bearing hanger is never "sacrilege" but scabbing on a weldment is not how you do it when the hanger is integral to the frame.

 

[Havasu Dave]

As an FYI, Loctite 660 has a gap fill of .02 and is designed for retaining shims, seating bearings, etc. ACE Hardware has a bunch of very thin bits of stainless. But again, I'd be wary of the shim walking out from under the bearing, and if this were my project, I'd take the paint down, and tack on a bead or two, trim, then touch up with paint.

 

[minibikin']

I have to agree with Dave that adding some weld and re-boring would be the best method. I also think that if you can keep the heat concentrated by using damp rags on the surrounding tubing, you could spot paint repair that bearing hanger using the weld/pinched area to mask and spray some melter to blend it...

 

[creia]

I have used the Loctite 660 (and also Loctite 603) ("retaining compounds") Dave mentions for these applications with very good results.
Michael

 

[race]

Thanks for the replies guys. I didn't mention it but I bought the rolling chassis already powder coated as you see it. If it were mine from the get go I would have completed any frame repairs well before starting any painting but it is what it is.

I am most interested in doing a solid repair so the weld and re-bore sounds best. I would think a competent paint place could come up with some matching paint color to touch up afterwards.

And if anyone else goes down this road, and wants to go the shim route, these (from the link on #3 on my post above) do look interesting.

I just chose any size to see more detail on the product.



"Also called tolerance rings, these rings are for use in stamped, molded, or worn housings to form a tight hold on the bearings. They work like a spring, creating tension between the bearing and the housing to hold the bearing in place. They also reduce vibration and compensate for some thermal expansion between the housing and the bearing and eliminate the need for keys, pins, and adhesives. They're made of stainless steel for corrosion resistance. "


No idea how well they work but sounds like a robust product. I have also found some painted-over boogers on my top frame tubes but those look like they can wait for now.